Taking a 350 block and building a 383. Have no clue on where to start, what to get, or what I need. If anyone knows of any websites or wants to write me a book on this please help. I'm in desperate need
oh and now i drive an RS tbi..completely stock besides the tranny and exhaust

 

Unless you plan on buying aftermarket parts, the basic parts you'll need are balancer, crankshaft, con rods and flex plate from a chev 400. The mains on the crank need to be machined down to fit in the 350 block. You can put the 350 pistons on the 400 rods. To build 383 cid you need to have the block bored out .030 and then get the oversized pistons.

You can use the 350's longer rods but need 383 stroker pistons. Some grinding is also required to make sure the rods don't hit the block.

If your block has a one piece rear main then the 400 crank won't work. (at least to my knowledge)

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block almost ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

FWIW, You can get a new 383 crank from Scat for about $240.00, so grinding down a 400 crank is a waste of time and money (considering the crank in question is more than likely 20 years old to start with) AND to bring back it strength you would have to have it nitrited (heat treated).
Plus the Scat crank is a cast steel and not nodular iron like the 400 (which is a little better).

There are MANY ways of doing it, so read up and shop around!

Good luck
Dave

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If a little's good,
More is better
And too much is just right!

 

i believe moroso makes an adapter to use a one piece seal on a old style block.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd

 

Check hot rod magazine from last summer sometime. That had a list of popular motor build ups and a lot of info on a 383.

Miles

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88 427 Camaro
12.18 @ 113mph 1.75 60ft

www.koolmeister.com

 

ede,

It's the other way around AND those are prone to leak.

 

dart 408 thanks for setting me straight. i remember seeing them in the jegs catalog while i was drooling over some go fast parts. never used one, never even seen one for real so as you all saw i didn't know what iwas talking about. not the first time that's ever happened.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd

 

I'm currently building my 383 as we speak so here's what I can tell you. You can use a one or two piece rear main seal block depending on what you have now. SCAT makes 383 cranks for both. You can use a 350 balancer and flywheel if you have the engine internally balanced by your machine shop. You can use 5.7 or 6 inch rods depending on what you want to do. You need the 383 pistons that are .030 over 350 pistons with shorter skirts for the longer stroke (larger counterweights) of the 383 crank. You will also have to use a dremel tool to grind on the oil pan rails to clear the rod bolts, as well as possibly the bottom of the cylinders. The final thing you can run into is the rod bolts hitting your cam. I didn't have this happen, but it is possible. If you really want to prevent this one you can order a low base circle cam and use longer pushrods.
Hope this helps.

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


***** Flyby: (n) When you let off the throttle after beating a ***** Racer by a few car lengths and he then blows by you in an attempt to convince you he really won the race.