I've seen it a few times, but I still can't believe it. Do big and small block chevy's use the same motor mounts?

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1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula LO3 Auto
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Yup. Absolutey identical, by part number, in all the cars I have ever had that I interchanged them. That includes the full-size cars, Monte Carlo, Chevelle SS, trucks, older Camaros, etc.

Why does that seem hard to believe?

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

I don't know it just does, are they in the right place so that all you have to do is bolt the motor in? Well in our case, beat room out and then bolt motor in.

 

Like RB said, they are the same. To add to that, the distance between the mounts and the bellhousing mount is the same, as is the distance from the mounts side-to-side. Right now, the 396 in my '57 has mounts originally purchased to put a 350 in the '66 Impala when the 396 was pulled for rebuild - used the same mounts when the 396 went back in the '66, and kept them on when it went into the '57.

Sweet, huh?

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LB9 w/ZZ3 cam, TBD heads, exhaust, paint, etc.).
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[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited January 25, 2001).]

 

I'll have to keep this in mind. Thanks.

 

I could be wrong, but I think this sort of thing is one of the main reasons we drive old Chevys. Unlike some other mfrs, stuff interchanges across the whole product line with very few differences from 55 to the present. Try dealing with Brand F sometime, where they've had 3 different trans bolt patterns on the block, I lost count how many deck heights, a dizzying variety of accessory mount systems, etc. etc. etc.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

I dunno if I really agree with that statement... Ive seen different stuff on chevys too
The starter on my 302 fits... just about every ford in the book. 260, 289, 302, 351C, 390, 400, 427, 428, 460 from at least 63 to present aside from the permanent magnet starters of late...
My brand F car has a 66 chassis, 74 engine block, 65 timing cover, 89 heads, 84 bellhousing, had a 72 flywheel, 81 clutch, had an 87 trans, 77 rear end, 57 diff. I think thats a pretty wide variety myself. And it all bolted up with no mods to the parts whatsoever.
I know theres some differences in brand F, but theres stupid differences on brand C too. Like WTF is up with chaning the center 4 intake bolt angles? And the valve covers changed. And the exhaust manifolds are even in a different place on the friggen head because the heat sheilds didnt line up quite right anymore. That crap pisses me and anyone off. BTW, that was going from an 86 engine to a 91. Stupid stuff.

Tranny mounts on Chevys never really changed either. 2 basic designs for many years. Simple.

[This message has been edited by madmax (edited January 26, 2001).]

 

My dad has an 86, 87, 88 and my mom has an 85 all crown victorias, they changed something every year, nothing major though.

 

How about the C4-C6-Cruise-o-matic thing? The deck height difference between the 302 and 351? The brake pedal that wears out instead of the brake light switch, so that when you discover your battery keeps mysteriously going dead overnight you have to disconnect the brake lights because the pedal (now worn out) is staked in so you can't fix it? Or the little 4" long piece of rubber fuel line they put on so many of their cars, right in front of the carb, right next to the points distributor, such that when it fails as rubber fuel lines invariably do it sprays fuel directly on the distributor and sets the car on fire? I could go on...

There are some rather cool things about F*rd motors though. Like the Windsor and Cleveland block motors have the same head bolt pattern and bore spacing, so you can put Cleveland heads on a 302 if and only if you use a 289 intake, which is for the right deck height. And the one thing that in this day and time is what gives SBC builders fits trying to beat the F*rds, which is that each cylinder in their motors only has 4 bolts around it where the SBC has 5, which extremely limits the size of the intake port.

Ever drop a distributor into a Windsor block? That'll make you go gray before your time. Or notice that the oil pickup is in the very front of the pan, which makes the oil all run away from the pickup when it moves to the rear under acceleration? Have any of you that have ever built a 429/460 motor noticed that it is a direct duplicate of a Chevy Mark 4 big block, as identical as the old Toyota FJ Land Cruiser motor is to the Chevy 235? (That one is so close that if you don't notice that the bolts are 13mm instead of 9/16", you'd swear you were working on a 57 Chevy. Talk about import technical superiority) One of the more amusing things about the 429/460 is that if you take off the stupid F*rd s*** they call rocker arms and throw it away, and just stick BBC ones on with (I think - it's been decades) Pontiac pushrods, you pick up about 35 HP?

Sorry, I went on too long. I've built them all at one time or another, and in spite of the trials, the SBC has to be the best motor for our purposes, in part because so much stuff interchanges. I'll take drilling 4 holes to a different angle over fighting a different trans and flywheel bolt pattern or block deck height, any day.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Just a small correction...
Theres no difference between the 289 and 302 small block ford intake manifolds. And its unfortunately a little more than bolting on 351C heads, but doable. Like I said, stupid stuff both sides. Why does the choke light have anything at all to do with the alternator? But I digress...

[This message has been edited by madmax (edited January 26, 2001).]

 

One thing, I hate to say this, but my Dad's 88 Silverado's brake lights do that, but it hasn't run the battery down, he figured out to pull the brake back up with his foot. It's got almost 200K on it so that's not too bad.

 

madmax- What about that thing with the
choke light and the alternator? A friend had
that problem with his '85 Z28 and a new
regulator turned out the light,but I don't quite remember the details since it was about ten years ago. Could you please explain the relationship between these two
parts?