Who builds a good longblock?
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From: Columbia MO
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: WCT5
Who builds a good longblock?
Hey all,
I'm going to do a 350 for my '83 Z28 5 speed car. I've got a 4 bolt 350 that I might rebuild. I was wondering if I could get some input as to who sells reasonably priced long blocks or crate motors. I'm thinking in the price range to compete with the GM Goodwrench 350 that goes for around $1300. I saw in the Junkyard Jewel post that someone said Pep boys has them (Recon) for $700. Who are some other reputable sources? I want an engine that will last "forever" (you know, a long time). warranties are great too.
anyone...anyone?
Thanks
Clem
[This message has been edited by clemsparks (edited March 23, 2001).]
I'm going to do a 350 for my '83 Z28 5 speed car. I've got a 4 bolt 350 that I might rebuild. I was wondering if I could get some input as to who sells reasonably priced long blocks or crate motors. I'm thinking in the price range to compete with the GM Goodwrench 350 that goes for around $1300. I saw in the Junkyard Jewel post that someone said Pep boys has them (Recon) for $700. Who are some other reputable sources? I want an engine that will last "forever" (you know, a long time). warranties are great too.
anyone...anyone?
Thanks
Clem
[This message has been edited by clemsparks (edited March 23, 2001).]
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Columbia MO
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: WCT5
I'll reply to try to get a little more exposure on this one. I have a hard time believing that no one out there's used any remanufactured engines from a mass producer of some sort.
anyone?
thanks
Clem
anyone?
thanks
Clem
From what I have read on this board, there have not been many ggod comments onf remanufactured engines from like autozone, checker etc. Most people are looking at the GM crate longblocks avaiable from a variety of sources. check out SDPC 2000.com. also shcek the archives. there is a lot of stuff on this.......bob
------------------
91 camaro RS L03 convert,
t-5, ultimate TBI mods,TBI spacer,SLP 1 5/8 headers,
3"cat back, 3.42 torsen posi,alston SFC's,Global West LCA relocation brackets, edelbrock STB
------------------
91 camaro RS L03 convert,
t-5, ultimate TBI mods,TBI spacer,SLP 1 5/8 headers,
3"cat back, 3.42 torsen posi,alston SFC's,Global West LCA relocation brackets, edelbrock STB
This is a sore subject on this board. I seem to be in the minority. I have a longblock 4.3 in my 92 S-10 Blazer. So far I have 8000 miles on it and no probs. I bought it from Schucks (Checker/kragen) for $1013 and have yet to have any issues. Mine was done by a company named Spartan engines and came with a 12/12k warranty with a 3yr/36k optional.
I'll chime in on this one. My oppinion is that you get what you pay for.
Remanufactured engines from one of the major parts stores are junk, despite any warranty placed on it. They are cheap motors for people who can't afford (or don't choose to afford) anything better. They serve a purpose but they have no place in a performance application. They are assembled with the cheapest possible parts, by who knows what, being payed squat, with an unknown amount of experience, with no interface or accountability to the customer. They aren't losing money on the deal even with good warranties and it's not because they are lasting... it's because they are built dirt cheap. I'm not oppinionated on this issue am i?
Basically, if you're not spending $2000 or more on a long block it won't be a steady and reliable performer through the years to come. Build quality is the single most important factor to long term reliability... and that's what going to cost you money. I see guys time and time again buying up and installing $1000 motors and going through one every couple years or so. If they just forked out the cash for a better motor in the first place they would have actually saved money 5 years down the road. AND THE MORE EXPENSIVE MOTOR WILL LIKELY RUN A WHOLE LOT STRONGER ANYWAY!!!! I have a friend who frustrates the living daylights out of me. He must have 8 partial motors laying around, none of which can even make his car hardly break into 15s on the track. Sell it... buy 1 modern roller cammed aluminum head motor and say hello to the 12 second zone and 100K miles of use.
It's completely understandable if $2000 isn't within your budget. But in that case I would recommend you extend your budget as far as possible by having a motor build at an engine shop. You have a lot more control over a situation like that and if you're careful where you go, they will do you a fine job.
------------------
'89 Firebird RED!!!
B&M blown 468 big block
Tremec TKO 5-speed
Strange 12-bolt
Kenny Brown Competition Suspension
[This message has been edited by 89V6toV8 (edited March 28, 2001).]
Remanufactured engines from one of the major parts stores are junk, despite any warranty placed on it. They are cheap motors for people who can't afford (or don't choose to afford) anything better. They serve a purpose but they have no place in a performance application. They are assembled with the cheapest possible parts, by who knows what, being payed squat, with an unknown amount of experience, with no interface or accountability to the customer. They aren't losing money on the deal even with good warranties and it's not because they are lasting... it's because they are built dirt cheap. I'm not oppinionated on this issue am i?

Basically, if you're not spending $2000 or more on a long block it won't be a steady and reliable performer through the years to come. Build quality is the single most important factor to long term reliability... and that's what going to cost you money. I see guys time and time again buying up and installing $1000 motors and going through one every couple years or so. If they just forked out the cash for a better motor in the first place they would have actually saved money 5 years down the road. AND THE MORE EXPENSIVE MOTOR WILL LIKELY RUN A WHOLE LOT STRONGER ANYWAY!!!! I have a friend who frustrates the living daylights out of me. He must have 8 partial motors laying around, none of which can even make his car hardly break into 15s on the track. Sell it... buy 1 modern roller cammed aluminum head motor and say hello to the 12 second zone and 100K miles of use.
It's completely understandable if $2000 isn't within your budget. But in that case I would recommend you extend your budget as far as possible by having a motor build at an engine shop. You have a lot more control over a situation like that and if you're careful where you go, they will do you a fine job.
------------------
'89 Firebird RED!!!
B&M blown 468 big block
Tremec TKO 5-speed
Strange 12-bolt
Kenny Brown Competition Suspension
[This message has been edited by 89V6toV8 (edited March 28, 2001).]
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Columbia MO
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: WCT5
Thanks for the replies (and the lecture). I figure I'll probably build one myself by dealing with a good machine shop. I just figured I'd see if there were any particularly good remanufactured engines out there that I didn't know about. I figured that they weren't the best. That's why I didn't ask if I should buy one, but WHO PRODUCES THEM? Yes we all know that you get what you pay for. I'm looking for a mild 350 for horsing around and occasional autocrossing. I'm into quality and can judge for myself by dealing with the company whether they're worth wasting my time and money on.
thanks
Clem
------------------
1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, (unfortunately) auto, NO T-tops----FOR SALE---
Looking for a V8, 4 or 5 speed Camaro with NO T-tops (wanna trade?)
thanks
Clem
------------------
1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, (unfortunately) auto, NO T-tops----FOR SALE---
Looking for a V8, 4 or 5 speed Camaro with NO T-tops (wanna trade?)
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Theres a whole bunch of remanufacturers out there, and basically they are all about the same. The problem you can run into is that there may be a flaw or something that a "good" machine shop will find that will prevent the engine from dying an early death that any of the larger mass production remanufacturers will miss. Generally SBC's are fairly reliable and dont kill themselves, so the rebuilts are usually ok too. Its when you start getting into the 60 degree V6's and other problem childs that the problem becomes pronounced. And then of course trying to get a bunch more power out of any of those engines could land mixed results.
Personally I would rather take my chances with a decent machine shop locally on a performance oriented engine rather than one of the remanufacturers. If you are just looking for a stock-mild hp engine, probably anyplace would work fine.
Personally I would rather take my chances with a decent machine shop locally on a performance oriented engine rather than one of the remanufacturers. If you are just looking for a stock-mild hp engine, probably anyplace would work fine.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by clemsparks:
whoa there, sounds like I touched a nerve. I AM taking it in stride, simply clarifying my situation, that's all
thanks
Clem</font>
whoa there, sounds like I touched a nerve. I AM taking it in stride, simply clarifying my situation, that's all
thanks
Clem</font>
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 399
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From: Columbia MO
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: WCT5
Yeah,
I was figuring I could work with a machine shop to arrange to have the machining and prep work done and then assemble it myself. I've got the engine (may need a new crank and definitely a couple of rods) so It's just a matter of disassembling it and talking to good shop. Anybody have any idea how much the typical machine work costs?
bore/hone, deck, line hone, valve job, etc. (of course I want to magnaflux!). need to get a good Idea. I know I need to talk to a shop, just need to know whether or not to laugh at them when they start talking money
thanks
Clem
I was figuring I could work with a machine shop to arrange to have the machining and prep work done and then assemble it myself. I've got the engine (may need a new crank and definitely a couple of rods) so It's just a matter of disassembling it and talking to good shop. Anybody have any idea how much the typical machine work costs?
bore/hone, deck, line hone, valve job, etc. (of course I want to magnaflux!). need to get a good Idea. I know I need to talk to a shop, just need to know whether or not to laugh at them when they start talking money
thanks
Clem
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
From: Columbia MO
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: WCT5
really
?
I was convinced that this was pretty important for a long-lasting engine.
don't know though.
Clem
------------------
1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, (unfortunately) auto, NO T-tops
---FOR SALE---
Looking for a V8, 4 or 5 speed Camaro with NO T-tops (wanna trade?)
?I was convinced that this was pretty important for a long-lasting engine.
don't know though.
Clem
------------------
1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops

1983 Z28, (unfortunately) auto, NO T-tops
---FOR SALE---Looking for a V8, 4 or 5 speed Camaro with NO T-tops (wanna trade?)
Complete and well done machining is essential to a long lasting engine that puts out consistent power to its dying day. Never skimp on machining. It's cheap relative to the total cost of the motor and it will pay off big time.
------------------
'89 Firebird, RED!!!
B&M blown 468 big block
Tremec TKO 5-speed
Strange 12-bolt
Kenny Brown Competition Suspension
Read all about it!
------------------
'89 Firebird, RED!!!
B&M blown 468 big block
Tremec TKO 5-speed
Strange 12-bolt
Kenny Brown Competition Suspension
Read all about it!
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