that is still streetable and the horsepower can be attained by using some nitrous but Im dont want to use alot. More or less I want a faster car and I have a budget of about $2500-3000 I will be able to add other things to put the power on the ground later but I would like to get a idea on a motor. PS Im looking in the area of a carbed 383 thanks guys

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Red 87'Z-28 350 TPI(FORMERLY 305),MSD 6AL IGNITION,GUTTED MAF AND AIRBOX,NEW FALKEN ZIEX's
700r4 w/b&m shift kit and cor. servo
2-12'' MTX 8000'S

 

Drop in a mild big block with cast iron headers. The bigger the engine size, the easier it is to build a high HP engine. If you want to stick with a small block then don't stop at a 383. Go right to a 406. 23 more cubic inches means around 23 more HP.

Trouble with building a high HP engine is that the rest of the car needs to be improved also. The 700R4 won't survive for long. The factory diff needs to be beefed up or exchanged to a 9" or a 12 bolt. The car itself needs to be upgraded with SFC and aftermarket suspension components such as all the Steve Spohn parts. You could build a 600 HP engine but if you can't get the power to the ground then it's a waste of money.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.69
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 127.76
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 504.5
Best 60 foot: 1.546

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

you can use the 383 that you want since you already have the block. for your budget, get 200 or 215 ironeagle heads, a cam with around 230-235 degrees @.050 and a victor jr. or air gap dual plane manifold from edelbrock. around 10:1 is good for premium gas and a 750 would probably be best. i have experience with this stuff so that is why i recommend it. there are other options, but this has worked for me. that should put you in the 410 range and a little nitrous would put you over the 500 hp barrier.

the stock rear will work if you don't race it on slicks a lot. the rearend in my s10 is the same as yours and it is still together. i don't know about the tranny because i have a turbo 350 in mine. just run it until it starts slipping or blows up, then fix it.

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88 S10
Dropped 5/5
18" Boyd Coddington Timeless 5s
406 balanced with 6" Eagle H-beam rods, 10.25:1 JE SRP pistons, Comp 284XE cam; 240/246 @.050, .507/.510, Dart 200cc Ironeagle heads, Victor Jr. intake, Holley 750 vac sec.
12.20 @ 115.25 mph

 

ram jet 350 with a bigger cam!

<font face="Arial"><a href="http://www.geocities.com/battstas/cars/transams.html" target="_blank"><font size="2">Click here to see my Trans Ams</font></a>
<font size="1">1986 Trans Am WS6 (#40,977 of 48,870)- Silver, 305TPI, 16" charcoal gray cross-lace wheels. 171,500 miles, LB9, 700R4.</font></font>
<img src="http://www.fbody.com/members/98TransAm/86/1986.jpg" width="200" height="80">

<font face="Arial" size="2" color="#FF0000"><marquee width="201" height="18" scrollamount="3" bgcolor="#000000">CURRENTLY: the '86 was rear-ended in Austin (about 3K worth of damage), and is undergoing repairs.&nbsp;</marquee></font>

<font face="Arial" size="1"><a href="http://www.fbody.com/members/98TransAm/DSC00037a.jpg">'98 Trans Am</a>- (#907 of 12,046)- 3.23 4A, Chrome Wheels. 63,700 miles. <a href="http://www.fbody.com/members/98TransAm/DSC00055ga.jpg">'99 Honda VFR800fi</a>- 5,500 miles, GIVI wind screen <a href="http://www.fbody.com/members/98TransAm/99rodeo1.jpg">'99 Isuzu Rodeo</a>- V6 2WD 24,000 miles. </font>

 

Get the current issue of Car Craft and take a look at the 450 hp TPI motor.

 

i have a recipe for 507hp @5200rpm and 525 ft. lbs. @4200 on a 383 carb motor, but if i tell you i'd have to killl you go to www.amerspeed.com they have some engines that make gobs and gobs of torque.....

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1991 RS LO3

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

 

hey those engines at amerspeed. those are all made by my friend Justin. he is the engine builder there, and there are two other guys that work there, Gale and i think its Bill, but anyways, they build some of the finest motors around. Justin just build himself a 406 with AFR heads and is using a Carb he is planning on 10s. but his suspension will definately let him get there, and you have to recognize that. you can have as much power as you want but you have to have a suspension.

but seriously go there and check out what they have, and they do test all the engines on a dyno so you know exactly what you are getting!!
its well worth it and they also build fuel injection engines, they have a 383 TPI setup there waiting for the owner to come get it, its soo awesome, with AFR heads and Edlebrock base plate.
oh man i need one of those!!


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Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey "Custom" Interior
NOT STOCK, NO WHERE CLOSE!
NEW RED PAINT and WELD PROSTARS.

DAILY DRIVER: 1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE. leaving for army.

 

okay guys this isnt the kind of help I was asking for ...I got the car craft and there total setup was about $10,000 whicis about 7,000 more than I have to spend. i am almost sure I want to go with a 383 or 400 and I want to use forged parts so the motor can stand some nitrous use. I dont have the money to buy a turnkey motor but I would like a motor that puts me at about 450-500 hp. I know that I will need to beef up my tranny and rear end and add some suspension parts. What I am asking about is what kind of parts could some of you suggest? within my price range can I do some work to the tpi and keep it or would it be better to start off with carb? What kind of work will have to be done to a 350 block other than boring and such ? clearencing? Thanx and I appreciate all of you help.
lke to build one that has

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White 92' Camaro with red heritage stripes, gutted cad conv., cherry bomb vortex muffler, pioneer deh-p7300,
2-12'' MTX 8000'S

 

APCamaro,

If you shoot for 350hp. Buy a 383 stroker kit(takes care of short block) from Summit or someone like that. $1000.00. Get some bigger injectors for your TPI($300-400.00). Go to amerspeed and others and see what cams they are using for their engines with the type hp you want. Cam, lifters and springs($350.00)

Port your heads, larger valves, 3 angle valve job. If you have a friend that can do that you can save some money. If not, I'm guessing here - $500.00 labor and parts.

We're up to $2000.00 so far if I am not too far off. Dip(clean current block) $150.00. It helps to start out clean. You may not have to bore block if not too many miles. I would hone cylinders though.(? $100-$200.00)$2500.00

Larger air plenum. Try to find a used one($150.00). Gasket match heads and intake.
Misc - $350.00. $3000.00 so far.

100 shot of nitrous = $500. = $3500.00.
Headers($350 to keep emissions legal)
$3850.00 Sorry I'm over target. You could buy some things later. Headers, plenum, injectors.

What have I missed guys. Let's try and help him out.

P.S. Use the different vendors, share with them your plans and use their expertise.

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84 Z28 305HO, 5spd, 220,000 miles, Edelbrock intake, Hedman headers, low restriction exh(w/cat), K&N air filter. Best 1/4 so far 14.649 at 94.77mph
Recent additions: Del-A-lum front control arm bushings, Moog ball-joints, Energy suspension front sway bar end links, Moog rear sway bar end links, Eibach pro-kit springs, tokico shocks/struts. Need relocation brackets and control arms.

[This message has been edited by Craig84Z (edited June 07, 2001).]

 

It's going to be tight trying to make that much power with TPI and $3,000. An intake(superram or miniram) is $1,000 alone, so you might be better off with a carb and a nitrous kit.

Do a 350 and stay away from the 383. You will run into a lot more money trying to build a 383.

A 350 with a nitrous plate will do you fine.

 

thanks guys I appreciate that you all are trying for me. I didnt say that I wanted to stick with tpi it was just one of the options as of right now I want to try and make the power with the money I have. I looked at places like engine factory and they have 383's that are putting out the #'s I am looking for and cost like 3,299 so why can I build the same motor for cheaper? thought that building one myself would save me labor? I know that there are always going to be extra costs included and I'm not looking to buy hearders and everything else I need just the motor. Reguardless I am coming to you guys for help and direction ...thanks for all your help so far

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White 92' Camaro with red heritage stripes, gutted cad conv., cherry bomb vortex muffler, pioneer deh-p7300,
2-12'' MTX 8000'S

 

Another thing I would like to add is that my dad has friends that race cars and build engines and such for a living. I am almost sure that the machine work the parts and everything else I can get on a discount. this has helped me out in the past and I'm sure it will be helpful with this also. thanks guys I appreciate it.

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White 92' Camaro with red heritage stripes, gutted cad conv., cherry bomb vortex muffler, pioneer deh-p7300,
2-12'' MTX 8000'S

 

I've kept silent so far, but I have to ask. Have you ever driven a 500hp engine on the street? And it being a smallblock at that?

If you lower your goals to about 350-400 hp with a carb, you should have no problems keeping the price down to where you want it. Start by deciding if you want to run 87 octane or 92+. If your willing to pay the price of the 92 stuff then look for around 9.5-10:1 pistons (forged so you can run nitrous). The comp cams extreme energy line of cams has several good choices (the XE268 or 274 come to mind). After that the best improvements are going to be in your heads. Port, polish, big valves, etc. Your not going to want to keep the stock exhaust, with that kind of engine they will cost you 50hp minumum. If you were to stick with a 350 you won't need to buy a crank so you can put that money into a decent set of headers. Don't skimp on the carb, get a good one. The Edelbrock RPM series intakes will take advantage of the combination and are worth serious consideration. After all that drive the engine for awhile and then if you still want more and can keep the power to the ground a 100hp shot of juice will put you at the upper end of what you want, if not over the top.

 

Thanks for the input again....okay what I am trying to do is build a motor that I can compete with some of the cars that are around here. So what you are saying is put my horsepower goals lower and if I need more juice the rest. My point is cqan you reccomend a setup...I got my 350 block...what has to be done to it? where should I go for the forged bottom end ? Is there a package that is a good deal? I see some in summitt but they are only good for 400 hp and with nitrous I will be past that mark. Then do I get a cam and heads to compliment each other? I'm sorry if i am being difficult but i'm 17 and very eager to learn, i have been around race cars and fast cars all my life and now i have some money and want to build with what I have. I havent drove a street legal 500 hp car but I have driven several race cars that put out 500 + hp thanks again guys

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White 92' Camaro with red heritage stripes, gutted cad conv., cherry bomb vortex muffler, pioneer deh-p7300,
2-12'' MTX 8000'S

 

Your starting to get the idea, build something drivable and if you need more use the juice. A 500 hp smallblock is almost a chore to drive and in the rain is a nightmare.

What your going to need to do is get all the machine work done to the block and other parts. Have the heads rebuilt with 2.02/1.60 valves and larger springs (matched to the cam your going to use). Find a quality set of forged 10:1 compression pistons. Then look for an engine rebuild set from summit or where ever. Just make sure that it's a complete kit and has name brand high quality componets. Now your off to cam selection. I swear by the Extreme Energy series from comp cams, so do alot of others on this board. The XE274 might even be a little big but can be toned down if it is by going to 1.5 RR rockers instead of 1.6's. Take the money you have left and have the heads ported, blended, and matched to your intake and exhaust. USE HEADERS! My intake of choice would be the performer RPM from edelbrock. The carb would be holley (only because I have no experience with demon carbs).

Those componets will put you over your 400hp requirement. However to be able to use nitrous you will need to make sure you have forged pistons. Any quality brand will do. To get the most from this setup you will HAVE to port the heads, that's where your major gains will be made.

 

okay I was looking around and there seem to be some motor like what I was looking for at speedomotive.com can anyone take a look at them and tell me what they think for my project. I was thinking in the lines of the street master engine, and then if u guys dont like the look of it what anout on of there assembly kits for a 383 are they any good?

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White 92' Camaro with red heritage stripes, gutted cad conv., cherry bomb vortex muffler, pioneer deh-p7300,
2-12'' MTX 8000'S

 

double post

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White 92' Camaro with red heritage stripes, gutted cad conv., cherry bomb vortex muffler, pioneer deh-p7300,
2-12'' MTX 8000'S

[This message has been edited by APCAMARO (edited June 09, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by APCAMARO (edited June 09, 2001).]

 

COME ON GUYS YOU HAVE BEEN VERY HELPFUL SO FAR KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK...LOL

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White 92' Camaro with red heritage stripes, 305 tpi, gutted cat., cherry bomb vortex muffler, pioneer deh-p7300,
2-12'' MTX 8000'S

 

Check out www.pawinc.com
They have good engine combos that you save money with by builing yourself. If you got a dad that has done this, then it should be no prob to put it together. You'll have to order one of the catalogs, they have no online catalog, last I knew anyway. You can buy anything from cast slugs for $65 to forged for $189. You don't "need" forged if your gonna keep the nitrous below 6psi. Hypereutectic pistons will do. I gotta kit from them for a 350 I'm building. I went hyd. cam cause it was cheaper. But I got a cam w/ lifters, Speed Pro hypereutectic slugs, Hastings moly rings, Clevite 77 crank & rod bearings, Milodon double roller timing chain & gears, high volume oil pump, full gasket set, and free shipping for just under $400. That's for a one piece rear main crank. The 2 pc. is cheaper. Plus you get your choice of the grind on the cam. It's not just a fixed cam that comes with the kit. It's all quality stuff for a damn good price.

They also have a 383 crank kit that has TRW forged slugs, moly rings, shot peened con rods, bearings, and of course the crank for about $660 flat top-$995 dome, depending on the compression ratio you want. That way you can get your own cam, if you want that Xtreme from CompCams. Or you can get the block kit w/ cam & timing chain, and the above mentioned for about $1500. Add heads, lifters, push rods, oil pump, rocker arms, and gaskets for $500. It's a 4 bolt main block, decked, bored .030" over, honed, new cam bearings, and brass freeze plugs. That's $2000, then just add carb, intake, and headers.

If you get other heads, go with any decent 210-220cc intake. A low rise, single plain intake would be fine because the motor is already gonna make good low end torque. That way you'll get the most outta the upper rpms. And definately get 1 3/4" headers. Otherwise you'll choke the engine. And one more thing, spend the money on a Barry Grant carb. I can't believe the quality you get for the price. A Speed Demon 750 is about $400 for vacuum secondaries & elec. choke, and it'll last forever.

If you go with the Xtreme cam, I would recomend the K-kit. You get springs, retainers, chain & gears, valve locks & seals, and lifters/cam for about $280 for the 268, $316 for the 274. That way all the guess work is gone.

The biggest cost is gonna be the machine shop if you decide to use your block. To do this combo right it's gonna cost around $500-$600.

There's a few options for ya, cost wise. The HP level is gonna be mainly up to the heads and cam you go with. They are the brains of the engine. All the other stuff is just made to compliment, and work with them.

Edit: I was just thinkin' a dual plane would be better for street use. Also, a Comp Cam 268Xtreme, factory pocket ported heads, dual plane intake, 750 cfm carb, 1 3/4" headers, & 10:1 comp on a 383 should get you about 375-400hp and 400-425lb.ft. of torque. A 350 would be about 350-375hp and 350-375lb.ft torque. Bump either about 25hp with better heads. That should keep your tires busy.

[This message has been edited by AJ_92RS (edited June 10, 2001).]

 

Thanks aj92rs I really appreciate it. Does anyone else have something to add to that eventhough that might be enough to help me get started. The catalopg is ordered.

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White 92' Camaro with red heritage stripes, 305 tpi, gutted cat., cherry bomb vortex muffler, pioneer deh-p7300,
2-12'' MTX 8000'S

 

Go to a major bookstore and look in the automobile section and find John Ligenfelter's book on modifying small block chevy's and any other small block chevy performance books you can find. You will have to educate yourself to a point.

Also check out the tech articles on this board and these 2 sites:

Look in the garage section:
http://www.racer-x.f2s.com/

Check out the whole site and absorb as much as you can:
http://www.projecttransam.com/