rebuilding a 305 or 350
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 276
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From: Cape Girardeau,MO
Car: 85&95 Trans am
Engine: 85-LT1 95-LT1
Transmission: 4l60e & 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23 & 3.23
rebuilding a 305 or 350
I have a 85 Trans am that has the 305tpi motor. I want to put a 350 in it but I don't have the money. I was thinking of going with a 335 stroker. I might still go the 350 route if I can. My question is what year of block should I look for? I want to put the tpi setup back on. Is it the heads that only matter with the tpi intake bolting on? I'm only going to have about $1,500 to do this and I won't be able to do it myself.
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85 305tpi Trans am
flowmaster exaust
K&N air filter, 4:11 rear gears
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
It's cheaper to buy and build a 350 core than it is to take an existing 305 core and do the 400 crank thing to it, especially since you have a 2-piece RMS application. If you're looking for a budget approach to making power, the "334" isn't it.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
buy just a 350 L98 engine from a junkyard w/o the intake, and have them put it in there..... look at 305 to 350 posts for the few little things youll need like a 350 knock sensor ($20)... $800 for a good l98 with no acessories (use the ones off of your 305, almost everthing switches over including the intake) around 700 to put it in.... right at $1500.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 46
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The stroked 305 has a lot of "road less taken" appeal, but it is not a $/hp setup. Like is being said, the 350 will do you better.
You have an early TPI (pre-'87 heads) and two-piece rear main seal (pre-'86 block & crank) engine. To "bolt right up", you'll need similar heads and crank/block type - L98 doesn't cut it if you're putting your stuff back on. But, if getting a salvage yard engine, the parts to make it work should be readily available. Cost? $1500 probably won't cover it, unless you get a VERY good deal (and give up all that is taken out).
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, LT MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1/95.5 @ 5800' Bandimere.
You have an early TPI (pre-'87 heads) and two-piece rear main seal (pre-'86 block & crank) engine. To "bolt right up", you'll need similar heads and crank/block type - L98 doesn't cut it if you're putting your stuff back on. But, if getting a salvage yard engine, the parts to make it work should be readily available. Cost? $1500 probably won't cover it, unless you get a VERY good deal (and give up all that is taken out).
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, LT MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1/95.5 @ 5800' Bandimere.
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