Im planning on swapping the 350 TPI in my 89 Iroc for a carb. fed small block. I am planning on removing the computer and wiring harness and selling it with the engine. Where is the most logical place to remove that particular part of the wiring harness? Also where can I find a replacement harness that would work for the change-over to a carb. setup. Any info/experience regarding associated problems and or solutions with this type of swap would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Bruce

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"Four on the floor, fifth in the glove compartment"

 

You'll have to remove it in two places. 1) at the ECM, along with two other connectors that are close by (you'll see what I mean.) 2) at the firewall on the drivers side. I would also disconnect it from the engine and pull it out seperately. It should make things alot easier. good luck.

Jim

 

You unplug it at the ECM, and two connectors near it, pull back some weatherproofing behind the kickpanel, and can pull nearly all the associated ECM wiring out through the fender, may have to pull the fender well plastic back to get at it easily once it goes through.

Then you have to go throught he wiring harnesses and remove the stuff for the eCM, and remove the lamp driver, which runs the check engine light., Basically removing the wiring that goes to the ECM

At this point the Vats should be Gone. If not remove the module, and throw it as far as possible. IF it still doesn't work, find a Park neutral saftey switch in the console from an earlier car and put that in. If you replace the shifter with something like a megashifter, you by pass that stuff with the vat's module. I found that the stock neutral saftey switch even on my 86 had some things going to the computer as well. with no computer and the setup on the B&M, they are not needed.

The Gauge cluster Should work. since they come through the firewall on the driver's side.
YOu will spend some time rooting around getting rid of the old ECM wiring, in which case it's much easier to pull the harness out and lay it on the ground. which involves takeing the console, and dashboard out.. which isn't really too involved.
Hardest part about that is getting the heater control head out.
if your doing that you will get very intimate with GM wiring, and the fact that they use the same color coding for 15 differnt circuits but slightly different sizes.

Removing the ECM related stuff you can still retain the cluster working, but if you wanna go with a new trick type cluster with aftermarket gauges, it's only another step away.