Complete new shortblock or get stock block bored and put in a 383 rotating assembly?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 0
From: Ohio, USA
Car: 2015 Camaro Z/28 & 2013 Super Bee
Engine: LS7 and 392 HEMI
Complete new shortblock or get stock block bored and put in a 383 rotating assembly?
What would be a cheaper and /or better way to go: Buy a new 383 shortblock or take the stock 350 block to a machine shop and buy a 383 rotating assembly? Also, what would the machine shop charge for all that needs to be done to the stock block?
TGO Supporter
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,811
Likes: 1
From: Jackson County
considering all the grinding you have to do to make the rod bolts clear i'd look at buying a assembled short block. make sure you use rods with bolts and not the bolt/nut type, you'll gain a little more clearance that way. like anything else it comes down to what you can afford and how much time you have.
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
Member
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo, NY USA
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 377ci, Brodix Heads, Solid Roller c
Transmission: 700-R4 w/ Yank ST3500 Converter
Axle/Gears: 3.73
The machine shop only charged $80 to clearance the block for the 383. Other than that, there was no additiional charges for the 383 than if I had gotten a 355.
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87 IROC-Z 305 TPI gears, exhaust, converter
14.70 at 94.1 mph
Solid Roller Minirammed 377 - It's Alive !!!
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87 IROC-Z 305 TPI gears, exhaust, converter
14.70 at 94.1 mph
Solid Roller Minirammed 377 - It's Alive !!!
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