What starter to use on engine swap?
What starter to use on engine swap?
Ok, I tore out the tired 305 from my '86 firebird with 700R4 auto tranny. Built a new engine, and now I don't know what starter to put in.
The block is casting number 3970010 and it's a 350 4-bolt block. IDing the block shows it came from '69 to '79, in cars trucks and vettes. I noticed that the flex-plate included with the engine kit is about an inch larger in diameter that the factory original.
So now I know the original starter will not fit, but how do I figure out which is right? All the guys at the auto part store could do was say "give me an application, and we'll fine the starter". Yeah, right. Sounds like I have to keep trying starters until I find the right one. It would be much better to find the right one first try - second try worst case.
Anybody been down this path before and can give me some advice? And, how do I tell for sure that the one I get is right?
gene
The block is casting number 3970010 and it's a 350 4-bolt block. IDing the block shows it came from '69 to '79, in cars trucks and vettes. I noticed that the flex-plate included with the engine kit is about an inch larger in diameter that the factory original.
So now I know the original starter will not fit, but how do I figure out which is right? All the guys at the auto part store could do was say "give me an application, and we'll fine the starter". Yeah, right. Sounds like I have to keep trying starters until I find the right one. It would be much better to find the right one first try - second try worst case.
Anybody been down this path before and can give me some advice? And, how do I tell for sure that the one I get is right?
gene
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
It's possible that the starter for a vast number of cars, like all the ones with T-350s, would fit. The part # is 3510-S. Try that one and see if it will fit in the bell housing. It's the one that goes with the 14" (168 tooth) flex plate.
I seriously doubt you can put the right starter for a 153-tooth 12¾" flywheel on there. The inner bolt would have to go RIGHT THROUGH the starter drive. I have a 400, same exact issue, I drilled & tapped the block for the late-model starter pattern, which is what you'll have to do if the 3510 doesn't fit.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
I seriously doubt you can put the right starter for a 153-tooth 12¾" flywheel on there. The inner bolt would have to go RIGHT THROUGH the starter drive. I have a 400, same exact issue, I drilled & tapped the block for the late-model starter pattern, which is what you'll have to do if the 3510 doesn't fit.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RB83L69:
I drilled & tapped the block for the late-model starter pattern, which is what you'll have to do if the 3510 doesn't fit.
</font>
I drilled & tapped the block for the late-model starter pattern, which is what you'll have to do if the 3510 doesn't fit.
</font>
Matt
Get a new flexplate. It's not worth drilling and tapping. They're less than $40 at any salvage yard.
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'89 Red Formula 350- 350 .060 over w/ forged pistons, 232* @ .050 cam, Performer RPM, Holley 750 DP, Vortec 1.94 1.50, Accel Coil and dist, Hedman shorty headers, Dual Exhaust w/ cutouts, WS6 suspension, 9 Bolt 3.27 Posi Edelbrock LCA's & Track bar subframe connectors, 700R4, A&A snorkel scoop Eclipse Head Unit, Delco Bose Speakers, 2 12" Pioneer subs w/ 400 watt/chanel amp
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'89 Red Formula 350- 350 .060 over w/ forged pistons, 232* @ .050 cam, Performer RPM, Holley 750 DP, Vortec 1.94 1.50, Accel Coil and dist, Hedman shorty headers, Dual Exhaust w/ cutouts, WS6 suspension, 9 Bolt 3.27 Posi Edelbrock LCA's & Track bar subframe connectors, 700R4, A&A snorkel scoop Eclipse Head Unit, Delco Bose Speakers, 2 12" Pioneer subs w/ 400 watt/chanel amp
I am just now running into this problem. I built a 377 last year for my 85 TA and dropped it in. Next came our baby, which put the project on hold for a year. I am using a 74 400 block with the stock 85 flex plate and a built 700R4 trans. I didn't count the number of teeth the flex plate had on it until after I put it on. How many teeth does the stock flex plate have? The engine was a 305 TPI. Next, is the starter you recommend the same one that I need to try on this engine? Thanks for the input!
Chris
69 Firebird Conv
85 Trans Am w/377
94 Ram Air Trans Am
02 Collector Edition Conv (on the way...)
Chris
69 Firebird Conv
85 Trans Am w/377
94 Ram Air Trans Am
02 Collector Edition Conv (on the way...)
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RB83L69:
It's possible that the starter for a vast number of cars, like all the ones with T-350s, would fit. The part # is 3510-S. Try that one and see if it will fit in the bell housing. It's the one that goes with the 14" (168 tooth) flex plate.
I seriously doubt you can put the right starter for a 153-tooth 12¾" flywheel on there. The inner bolt would have to go RIGHT THROUGH the starter drive. I have a 400, same exact issue, I drilled & tapped the block for the late-model starter pattern, which is what you'll have to do if the 3510 doesn't fit.
</font>
It's possible that the starter for a vast number of cars, like all the ones with T-350s, would fit. The part # is 3510-S. Try that one and see if it will fit in the bell housing. It's the one that goes with the 14" (168 tooth) flex plate.
I seriously doubt you can put the right starter for a 153-tooth 12¾" flywheel on there. The inner bolt would have to go RIGHT THROUGH the starter drive. I have a 400, same exact issue, I drilled & tapped the block for the late-model starter pattern, which is what you'll have to do if the 3510 doesn't fit.
</font>
Ok now I'm really confused. Is it totally unlikely that I can get the big flex plate to mate up with a starter?
How can I tell when the starter is correct?
I'd hate to pull out the motor, but since it's not really connected yet, it's not too big a deal.
How can I tell when the starter is correct?
I'd hate to pull out the motor, but since it's not really connected yet, it's not too big a deal.
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