This sux, i threw a rod and might have cracked a piston in my 87 2.8L RS. The car itself in almost perfect condidtion so i will be keeping it. I was thinking about about dropping in a 3.4 but since i have to replace the engine anyways i figure i might as well just spend the extra cash and drop in a 350. Good idea or no?

 

Don't forget

Stronger tranny

Stronger differental

Brackets and acc. for the new engine

Drive shaft, shifter, motor mounts.

Starts adding up in a HURRY!

 

No, different tranny. As in V8 bell housing tranny.

Wrong, completely, entirely wrong. Posi, maybe, otherwise all 10 bolts, V6 or V8, are the same strength.

True.

Wrong again.

True. We who have been through it will often advise, "Sell the V6 car, even in its current condition, and buy a factory V8 car." Only exceptions are a car with high sentimental value (such as first car or family member bought it new), or you get everything needed to do the swap for free - as in absolutely free, not as good as free. And, that's a complete factory V8 donor car to do it the cheapest, easiest and most completely.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2300 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax 2050 cam. ZZ3/4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster 80. 2.93 limited slip. Spohn SFCs waiting to be installed. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7:1 forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 700 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited December 13, 2001).]

 

I agree with 57kid. Sell car and buy a V8 car. Or part out car and scrap the rest. You will be much happier if you start out with a TPI car which can be had for $3k or less. Replacing tranny and getting posi will cost you a $1k + engine and headaches and other misc crap that always comes up.

 

Cheese!

 

since you like the car alot, keep it. Compare prices between used 2.8/3.1/3.4 motors. Make sure they are all from 85-95 camaro/firebirds. 3.4 should not be more than $750 for a low milage motor. just swap over the exhaust manifolds, starter, accessories, intake manifolds, etc....
When the hood is popped people see 2.8, not 3.4


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$150.00 2.8 Auto.
short block now
turbo eventually, 3.4 may be in the future

76 Bonnie: 400/400 CIA/Ram Air w/ metal clothes dryer ducting
Power "boat"ing land style

Giving the enemy the opportunity to die for their country

 

Since the chance of finding a V8 car in as good of condition as your V6 may be slim, selling the V6 car for a V8 isn't a good option. To get everything you need to convert to a V8 still means finding a V8 car though. Then once you have everything required, swap all the V8 stuff into the V6 body.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586

Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley