Benjam88

I'm looking to swap a 350 into my 85 Firebird. With a Qjet 305. I found two motors I am trying to decide between on craigslist. I'm on a tight budjet so cheaper is better.

Found an LT1 without the computers or wiring harness and was wondering if this would bolt up to my 700r4 with my 305 intake manifold and maybe a Edlebrock carb or would I need a different special manifold?

My other prospect is what I am asuming is an L05 that came out of an 89 1 ton 4x4. I would again be wanting to put my 305 intake on it with an Edlebrock. What would I need to do for a fuel supply? An inline fuel pump? Would my mechanical pump swap over by any chance?

Thanks for any advice

Awesome-X

You'd have to buy a special intake for the LT1. You can use the fuel pump and manifold from your 305 on your 350.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Forget putting a q-jet on an LT1. More trouble than you would want to tackle (more than I'd want to tackle). LT1's are best when they are allowed to be LT1's.

The LO5 will require modifying your intake manifold mount bolt holes, the center two on each side. They are at different angles on '87-up cast iron heads. Or, buy an '87-up carb intake manifold (they are available, but aren't exactly cheap). You may also need to buy a different flexplate for the LO5, as your '85 flexplate will not bolt up to the engine, and you probably want a 153-tooth version (get one for an '86-up f-body V8 automatic transmission from any parts store - about $40). Then you can use an '85-style starter.

Don't put an Edelbrock carb on your poor engine (you know you need to change the distributor as well if you do). Serious, serious downgrade. Yuck! You said you're on a tight budget - why spend money on something that is worse than what you already have? Spend it on the '87-up intake manifold instead. A 3706 Performer would be a good choice (and costs less than an Edelbrock carb, and much less than an Edelbrock carb and vacuum/mechanical advance distributor).

Your mechanical pump will swap over if the LO5 block has been drilled for the pump pushrod, and the cam has the fuel pump lobe on it - most likely, both are the case, but the only way to know is to check.

Atilla the Fun

I doubt the L05 cam having the fuel pump lobe, many of those blocks don't even have the pump pushrod hole drilled. But then again, none of the LT blocks do, either.
No, the LT1 is not for a tight budget.
If you get an LO5 block that can take a fuel pump, but the cam doesn't have the lobe, then www.competitionproducts.com can sell you a re-ground RamJet 350 / marine cam that does have the lobe, for just $35.
You do have other options, but best to wait until you make your purchase then tell us what you find.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

My brother's '92 Suburban LO5 did have the pushrod hole drilled (had the plate bolted to the block), but I never bothered to check if the cam had the lobe (didn't plan on using the cam so I didn't care - bartered the block for some machine work).

Benjam88

Well went with neither. But got a 350 with a starter and flex plate that has been worked over a little. Had new bearings, rods, crank and pistons put in it. As well as the heads rebuilt. Picked it up on craigslist to the sum of $225. The block casting is 3970010 and the head castings are 3932441. Its intake manifold is missing (Seems to be a trend with motors I find) so my question now is....will the intake manifold off my 1985 305 work? I am gonna rebuild and try to beef up my Qjet to flow some mightier numbers. Gonna tear down the motor tomorrow and see if the pistons are cast or Hypers and see if the block has been or needs to be bored.

Klortho

Well, here's the possible bad news, that casting number on the block shows up as

3970010....302.....69....4...Z-28 Camaro
3970010....327.....69....2...Trucks and industrial
3970010....350...69-80...2 or 4

so you could have a 327 block...maybe

heads show up as

3932441....69-70...350..........76cc chambers

Pretty crappy heads, sort of like the 881s, make sure they don't have an X at the end of the casting number, those show up as

3932441X...69-70...350/400......80cc chambers

which would make them total junk

if the dipstick is on the driver side, you'll also have to change the exhaust around so the dipstick will come through iirc as well.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If you're taking the 350 apart anyway, put your 305 head on it when you put it back together. They are much, much better than those 441's. That also resolves any issues with regard to your intake manifold fitting (which it would on the 441's, but, just sayin'. . .).

Benjam88

They don't have an x at the end of the head casting numbers and the block has 4 bolt mains. What are the size of the valves on the 305 heads? And what is the chamber size? The 305 heads I believe have leaky valve guides, and the 441s have been rebuilt. There is a swap meet in Portland this weekend. maybe I can snag some new stuff or do some horse trading.

And aside from the big combustion chambers what is bad about the 441? To my understanding it has some pretty good sized valves on it.

Klortho

The chambers are what makes those heads so bad, you would be around 8:1 compression, basically those heads are smogger heads like the 881s are. The heads on your 305 are way better than those are.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The size of the valves isn't as important as the magazine mechanics make it sound. Your 305 heads have better overall design, even if the valves are smaller. 1.84/1.50" valves in a head that flows well and promotes good combustion & compression via good chamber design will outrun large valve heads with large poorly-shaped chambers and poor-flowing ports.

Your 416 305 heads would be a step up in performance over the 441's. The next step up would be Vortecs, but then your intake manifold for sure wouldn't fit.

Benjam88

Well took it apart and found that every single top piston ring was broken and one piston had a shelf broke. Took it to the machine shop and found that the block needs to be bored...decided to pull out the stops after that.

Having the heads and block decked to up the compression and having the block bored. Installing new roller tipped rockers, valve springs, and retainers. New pushrods. having the intakes bowl ported. Putting in some Hypereutectic pistons. Have the crank polished and everything hot tanked. Still cam and intake shopping though...

Klortho

I would still use the heads off of the 305 and have them redone, valve guides are cheap to do and it would benefit you in the end. Sell the 441s to someone who is rebuilding a motor that doesn't care about performance.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I agree. Don't spend a dime on those 441 heads. Do that stuff, except the shaving, to the 305 heads, and have 1.94" intake valves installed instead.

Benjam88

So now I am looking at new distributors or a new spring and weight set for the HEI. What I would like to know is; what all does that little computer box under the passenger side dash control? Can I simply unplug and do away with it or does it run more than the distributor? If it controls more that the distributor can I unplug it from the distributor itself and just run the necessary power wires to it

Also, decided on a performer RPM grind cam, and am now deciding between 1.6 or 1.5 ratio roller rockers. My machinist has a nice set of 1.6 GM brand self guiding roller for $100.

And finally can someone point my in the direction of a guide on getting some more flow out of my Qjet. Anyone have experience hopping one of these up?

Klortho

You can't get more flow out of a Qjet, they use metering rods instead of jets that are not interchangeble (at least in my experience) You'll have to swap out the distributor with one that has a vacuum advance on it and ditch the CC one. The computer controls the advance on the dizzy when it's under power etc etc.