Ok so im swapping to a 350 carb...i am debating if i should use my 305 heads or use the 350 heads that came with the motor..i looked up the head number that came on the motor and it said they where used in 350/400 and they are 76 cc so which ones should i use..and if i use the 305 heads i gotta make the center bolts the right angle for the manifold how would i do that?? thanks i know in a previous post i said tha manifold fit but after i pulled the motor out and tried to fit it i found out why it would not like ppl said...so how would i go about making it fit if the 305 heads are the better heads to use...the 305 ones are 1081 heads..thanks.

 

The 305 heads.

To get the intake to fit, either elongate the center two bolt holes on each side of the manifold, or buy an '87-later style intake for it.

 

Which manifold would u suggest...the carb i got is a holley 600..

 

and would i be changing the intake bolt holes or the head bolt holes?

 

I would use your 350 heads shave about .010
305 heads more compression. smaller RL and valves
not economical to upgrade
I have a dual plane stealth ram if your interested it bolts up to 85 and earlier

 

well the intake i have bolts up with the 350 heads...i just heard the 305 heads will work good thats why i was seeing which would be better the 76cc or 58 cc...but people said the 305s will be good but the middle 4 bolts are not correct and before i sell anything i wanna know which ones i should use.

 

I would only use those 76cc heads on the engine of someone I really, really hate. I mean, hate more than my worst enemy.

The Edelbrock Performer or Weiand Action+ '87-up type would be fine. Professional Products has one that fits either type of head. You can look up the part number on www.summitracing as easily as I could.

You elongate the holes in the intake. The bolt threads are in the head - if you elongate them. . .

 

the 1081 heads unless he made a typo 58CC
they are 87 305 64cc heads if they were shaved to 58cc.. machine shops will advise NOT
and would need larger 1.94 valves and alot of porting.. to match stock 350 Heads

 

Ok so this has confused me alot...i have done some research and even asked somebody on here what heads i had and they said i had 58 cc heads...cause they came off my lb9 87 iroc..so the 1081 heads are not 58 cc?? im totally confused and have heard different stories that they are and are not.

 

You elongate the holes in the intake. The bolt threads are in the head - if you elongate them. . .[/quote]
So i would just make the manifold bolts bigger so the bolts will fit straight correct?

 

081 heads start out around 55 cc, right from the production line. NO 305 heads were ever 64cc. The old LG3 heads were 60.6cc, then the LG4 heads were 58cc, then for '87 they all shrunk to 55cc nominal. due to production tolerance, that means they'll check anywhere from 54cc to 56cc.

 

No, 081's (or, 1081's, if you will) are 58cc from the factory. They will out-flow and out-power those old 76cc 350 heads without any work. 1.94" intake valves would make them better, and some port clean-up would make them even better. {EDIT: Atilla beat me to it}
You elongate the intake manifold bolt holes so that the bolts fit into the threaded bolt holes in the heads.

 

ohh alright then so im going to go with the 1081 heads then...and port them a little....ok do i will make the intake bolt holes bigger so the bolt can go into the head correctly...how can i do it by sanding little by little or torching it?? i wanna make sure its done correctly so i dont mess anything up...and also thanks u guys have helped alot.

 

Sticking a 3/8" drill bit through the hole, starting the drill, and moving the drill to toward the angle you need is what I've heard. This is done with the intake off of the engine, of course.

 

Ok i made the intake fit perfect now...thanks...now for my next question if i switch my flexplate and bellhousing from my 305 will it work with this motor...and ill be able to mate it with my 700r4...or what will have to be done so the 700r4 can pair with this motor??

 

Bellhousing no problem.

'85-earlier SBC's used 2-piece rear main seal cranks, which have a different attach flange for the flexplate/flywheel than '86-later SBC's.

Get one for '83-'85 f-body 305 automatic, and it'll mount to both the crank and torque converter.

 

so what ur saying is the flexplate wont bolt to this crank correct...what about my torque converter...will it fit on this motor and starter...its cause the motor is the 3970010 motor so im not really sure what it came out of

 

Correct, your later flexplate won't bolt to the crank of the 010 block. But, get a flexplate from your local parts store for the application above (you usually need to tell them one specific year, one specific engine, etc., or their head explodes), probably about $35-$40. It will bolt to the crank, check to make sure your 305 starter bolts to the block (if it doesn't, you need to take it to a machine shop for them to properly drill, tap, and ream the 3rd bolt hole) - if/when it does, it'll match the flexplate. And, your torque converter will bolt to the flexplate.

 

ok cool deal the motor came with a flex plate on it...but its way too big it does not even let the starter go up to the holes...so what can i ask for at the parts store...cause if i ask for a stock one wont it be the same one as it has now?

 

"I need a flexplate for a 1984 Chevrolet Camaro 305 VIN H, automatic transmission."

If you go to Advance Auto, they'll pull a Motormite 04326, $27.99.

If you go to O'Reilly Auto Parts (Shucks/Kragen/Checker), Pioneer FRA112, $37.99, or Dorman (same as Motormite), 04326, $27.99.

If you go to AutoZone, be prepared for exploding heads.

 

lol agreed

 

the 58 cc heads will give you more compression, thats what I used on my purestock race car (85 camaro) and It made such a difference make sure that if you do use you 305 heads that you make sure you have new valve springs though cause it will make it really doggy if you have junk springs on it.

 

So i was thinking cause i just wanna get this motor in my car...how would the heads do if i just left them stock the way they are..the motor was fine when it was running never had a problem..and this motor is all stock just looking for some power not like crazy hp so i was just going to run the heads stock with the headers i got...would that be ok??

 

It'll be fine.

 

what springs would u recommend i dunno what cam it has or nothing in it its just a stock 010 block i picked up for a good price..its a 4 bolt main thats all i know though lol wo what would u recommend for the valve springs?

 

You don't really need to worry about valve springs with a stock cam. If you replace the cam, worry about the valve springs then.

 

It will be just fine, just be aware that if it suddenly doesnt have the spunk it used to and you have checked the timing and adjusted the carb and are at a loss for what the heck is going on check the valve springs, they will probably be perfect for years but it took me a month to find it on my car and by then I had almost lost two places in the standings for a championship so its one of the first thing that i do with used heads.

Best of luck
Yvonne

 

well im hoping it will have a lil more spunk than it use to it was a 305 before and now its a 350....cool deal so the heads should do good then??

 

just saw this post thanks alot uve really helped me out...now i got another question when i put the manifold and heads is there a certain way i gotta tighten the bolts or i just do it however?

 

There is a sequence to be followed. Available in any shop manual that covers small block Chevys. Basically start in the middle and make a circle outward.

 

cool deal then thanks now i just need the fuel system i got a mechanical fuel pump do i just run a line to the tank?

 

Any reason you can't use the original fuel line from the tank?

 

well this is my first carbed motor so what would be ur advice on this...the whole fuel system i gotta set up before i drop the motor in..the intake pump is still in there

 

what would be better...using a mechanical fuel pump or just getting a regulator and using the intank pump?? if i used the regulator how good will it work??

 

A return-style regulator with the in-tank pump is a pretty good way to go. Pumps push fuel better than they pull it. Also helps reduce vapor lock.

 

what would be a decently priced one...im a lil on a budget so where could i find a decent priced one...i posted here but nobody seems to have a used one.

 

oriellys has a mr gasket pressure regulater for like 28 to 30 dollars its the cheapest ive found and its somthing they always have its a pretty simple in line one with a dial on top to adjust the pressure not for sure what to set it on but most carbs only use like 5 or 6 psi where as a tbi uses like 14 or so. and i think a tpi uses like 55 or some really high number but im sure somone else on here could give you a more accurate setting but im pretty sure its around 5 or 6 psi

 

would this one be good.......its also sold at oreilys just wanna make sure its the right one before i buy it...
Holley - Carburetor Fuel Pressure Regulator

Part Number: 12-803
Line: HLY

• Avenger
• 4.5-9 PSI
• Standar
• 2302
• 2301
• UPC: 90127020227

 

yeah it should work just fine you can read a little more info on them at jegs.com same part #

 

No, that is not the correct one. You need 12-803BP ("BP" for "by pass").

 

hmm...thanks for letting me know before i bought it....umm what would be a good inexpensive one i can look at...so i need a bypass one what does that mean?

 

Also had another question...if im using the 350 push rods but didnt mark which lifter each went too will i have a problem?? cause i just noticed today the 305 ones are too short...but didnt mark the 350 ones to which exact lifter they went...

 

It means the regulator controls pressure by returning flow to the tank via the return line. The more the demand (the more fuel the engine is using), the less fuel volume is returned to the tank.

The cheap regulators control pressure by closing off the inlet, a "dead-head" system. The in-tank electric pump needs constant flow in order to keep it from overheating.

 

ohh ok then i guess ill try to get one...and how about the push rods will i have an issue with them or i can just drop them in??

 

That Holley BP reg is about a good of a price as I've seen.

The recommendation is to keep push rods, lifters, and rockers as a set, but I've never had a problem mixing them up.

 

ohh alright then ill just use the ones that came in the 350 the rockers ill probably use the 305 ones they are cleaner..thanks.

 

oooopss almost forgot one other question....my opsu how do i go about that...somebody told me it was by the oil filter but i looked and nothin is there i just noticed it has a hole right next to the distributor like the other motor did..can i just put this on my motor..or should i just put a gauge like ppl suggested...

 

Wanted to double check before i purchase this gasket set will this fit my motor im putting all gaskets on now...its block number 3970010 the last 3 letters in the vin are tyu so it says its from a 75 truck but wanna make sure this set will fit..just cause im using 87 heads.....and modified the manifold thanks.....

Brand
Fel-ProManufacturer's Part Number
QKS2600Part Type
Engine Gasket SetsProduct Line
Fel-Pro Gasket Kit SetsSummit Racing Part Number
FEL-KS2600

Gasket Set Type
Full gasket setHead Gaskets Included
YesIntake Gaskets Included
YesValley Pan Included
NoOil Pan Gasket Included
YesRear Main Seal Included
YesExhaust Manifold Gaskets Included
YesExhaust Pipe Gasket Included
NoValve Cover Gaskets Included
YesValve Stem Seals Included
YesWater Pump Gaskets Included
YesTiming Cover Gaskets Included
YesTiming Cover Seal
YesWater Neck Gasket Included
YesFuel Pump Gasket Included
YesDistributor Gasket Included
YesFuel Injector O-Rings Included
NoUpper Intake Manifold Plenum Gasket Included
NoHead Fasteners Included
NoQuantity
Sold as a set. A complete gasket set for your engine.

These Fel-Pro gasket kit sets include premium-quality head gaskets, intake gaskets, exhaust gaskets, valve-cover gaskets, oil-pan gaskets, valve-stem seals, and all accessory gaskets--everything you need for a complete engine rebuild, all in one affordable set.
Warranty

 

You should be able to use the OPSU that came on your 305.

You have some of the yes's and no's mixed up in your gasket set contents description, but that looks like the right set.

 

so it would be good...im really just looking for the intake and head gaskets..so wanna make sure those are the right ones....the opsu is the little thing that was next to the distributor correct?