one92rs

iTrader: (5)

ok thanks atilla. dished it will be. i beleiev that keith black makes a set for it. will built this engine. hope it will be a good one. please stop me if i am wrong.
1999 l31 bored .030
keith black hyperutectic dished pistons cc? has to be bored
gmpp hot cam kit
062 heads pocket ported with stock valve size-beehive springs and screw in studs machined for 1.6 rockers on the pushrod
750 cfm carb
edelbrock performer manifold---stock hood clearance
summit roller lifters--tell me which ones if not summit
hp--350 to 380 hopefully
tq--380 to 400 hopefullly

please lemme know if this will make it. want to do it on a stock converter or a 2000 converter. again thanks atilla. want to do this build only once.

Atilla the Fun

I'd go 2000 stall, I wouldn't do any grinding or polishing in the intake ports. I wouldn't use 1.6:1 rockers for the intakes, either. I would get these valves:
http://www.competitionproducts.com/S...ductinfo/8430/
And have your local machine shop put a 30-degree back cut on each of them before they start on the heads. If they do a 3-angle valve job to the heads, specify that they use 30/45/60 angles, and remove the absolute minimum possible from the intake seats. On the exhaust side, have them follow up with a 75 degree bowl hog. Then polish the exhaust ports yourself. If you insist on trying some porting, taper the exhaust valve guide bosses, lightly blend the 75 cut into the port, and carefully remove the ridge across each short turn. You may have to get the 3-angle re-done if you're not careful enough. Anyway, once the exhaust ports are polished, go around the perimeter of each chamber, you're just getting rid of any sharp edges. Be sure they've already resurfaced the heads. Then they're ready for reassembly.
KB offers some 12 cc D-dish hypereutectic pistons that I'm very much in favor of. And while we're at it, I suggest you get these rings:
http://www.competitionproducts.com/E.../ENGM40058-30/
before you get the pistons, which you have to get before you have the shop hone the block. And specify that they hone the cylinders an extra half thousandth. I also suggest aftermarket pushrods and a Cloyes Street Roller timing set, I think it's the 9-1145 for '87-up blocks. It's under $60.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

ill do exactly that. except i will have them do all the work on the heads. i will take this very post to them and have them do it exactly as stated. even if it cost more money. it will all be done one time and one time only.

again thanks.

Atilla the Fun

None of that is even remotely controversial, so if they give you too much argument, then it might not be the right shop for you to give your business to.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

ok so 1.5.1 rockers intake and 1.6.1 exhaust. i can do that. and i will find a shop that will machine it my way or find another one.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

To be honest, i'd recommend abit more converter than that even if it is a daily driver build. I ran 2800 on a stock longblock bolt on L98 and it went high 12's and was a blast on the street. Stock converters and just about anything under 2400 is boring. IF you ever take it to a track, that car will run several tenths faster with a 2800 stall speed vs 2000. The difference on a bolt on L98 with 254whp was day and night with 2800 vs stock. Just my opinion

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

it will be all street. track? maybe 2 or 3 times a year. this is not a race car at all. just something to run good and have a lot of fun with.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

You may beable to get a S10 converter or Corvette converter as I think they are around 2000 stall behind that V8. Cheaper way to do it but a good 9.5-10.5 " converter makes a big difference. Lighter and more efficient.

Atilla the Fun

I've tried them all. From 1200 stall to 3800 stall. For street use, anything other than 2000 is annoying. 2400 is Hell after the first day, and you never regain your initial tolerance. Ever. Anything higher than that, is RACE ONLY. Anyone who says otherwise needs to start over. Learn just how good a real converter is, not that crap from Yank or the Vigilante or whichever.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Cleaned up some off-topic posts (with apologies to Atilla for my part).

skinny z

Any details on the combination?
Deck height.
Piston type (dish volume, material).
Head gasket.
I'm finding it difficult to build a 383 with Vortecs and either have a static compression ratio that isn't too high (over 10:1 and considering the cam) or sacrificing quench and the efficiency that goes along with it. Piston .025" below deck and a .040" gasket gets you .065" which I understand is a little much.
When upgrading to the TFS heads, what chamber volume is used?

82camaroproject

iTrader: (1)

can i expect similar results with an old L48 350 from a chevelle? using the same parts of course. the reason is because i found one right down the street with 17k original miles on it and the paperwork to prove it....and for only 350 dollars that cant be passed up
also if i use better heads that couldnt do anything but help right?

Homer

iTrader: (1)

For those of us who haven't experienced it,

What is it like to drive a car with a high stall speed? There's obviously two different opinions here. Could some of the tradoff be mitigated by the use of a lock up converter?

Could a higher stall be used in lieu of a deeper gear?

Atilla the Fun

Skinny,
When building an engine, things like deck height depend on the condition of your block. Your machine shop should be telling you whether you need it decked or not. First you get your block bored. Then when you know what bore size it cleaned up at, you choose pistons. When your pistons and rings arrive, then you get the block honed. then you can do your pre-assembly, and measure the deck height. If it's near 0.025", then use Fel-Pro steel shims, #1094. If it's more like 0.015", then there are good, cheap 0.025" steel shims. And if it's close to zero deck, then there are many gaskets close to 0.040" thick.
With a 383, and Vortecs cleaning up at 60cc, to be under 10:1, you need a 19cc dish. If you want hypereutectics, Keith Black offers exactly that, for 6" rods. If you want forgings, Speed-Pro offers 21cc for both rod lengths, that'll put you at 9.8:1.
Now, what cam are you thinking? And what elevation are you at? Because with a 230/236 cam, and vortec heads, you should be over 10:1, even at sea level. With aluminum heads, that rises to 10.5:1. You'll need to finalize which heads you want before choosing pistons. I don't advocate using the TFS heads. You'l get stronger mid-range torque, and no loss of top-end power, with AFR195cc. I just had the opportunity to present the TFS215s to help illustrate the point about the cam controlling the lower-rpm TQ.

Atilla the Fun

You can start with that L48. It's nearly identical to GMPP's current 290 HP 350 crate engine.

Atilla the Fun

I only use lockup converters.
Gear and stall go hand in hand. A 2200 stall will feel better with a 3.73:1 gear than it would with a 2.73:1 gear. A 1500 stall will feel better with a 2.73:1 gear than it would with a 3.73:1 gear. And it has to match your cam. If you cant get good driveability with a 2000 stall, then your cam is too big. This usually comes from people wanting the cam to do the job of the heads. Because the cam is cheaper than good heads. The heads are responsible for the power, the cam is not. The cam is responsible for the rpm range and idle quality. But the cam must match the heads. Most guys run 4500 rpm heads, then add a 6000 rpm cam. Then they need a 3000 stall, and they've lost every advantage they should've kept. Their new rpm range falls off sharply past 5000. They might see 6000 in first, but not second.
If you want acceleration, good heads are everything. Nitrous is second. Nitrous can't be first because stock exhaust ports don't flow very well.
a 1500 stall converter is fine for granny, but it's no fun, ever. A 3800 stall is fun at the dragstrip, no doubt.
driving a 2400 stall that's made by tweaking the guts of a 12" converter with a 350 engine, is like driving a stick but not being able to let the clutch out below 2400 rpm. It gets old fast. And stays old. A tight 3000 stall made from a 10" converter is a bit better, but not quite as good as a 2000 stall. And if you install that, you better not let anyone else drive it, ever. They'll stomp the gas to pass, and instead of passing, surprise, they'll loop the car out of the lane and slam it into something else, quarter panel first. Maybe even a pedestrian. 3000+ stall converters are violent if they're good designs. The violence is great fun, but you're not using the fun aspect even 1% of the time on the street. On the street, they're annoying 99% of the time. More so if your combo is mis-matched. And many of the people running a 2400 just don't know how to tune for full possible torque at 2000. All they know is how to adjust idle, and play with the curve kit for the dizzy. Yet they never get it right.

Atilla the Fun

Now is an appropriate time for you to get counterpoint from five7kid.

Homer

iTrader: (1)

Good info, thanks.

I'd also add to the conversation that AFR's website has a 406 with 180 cc heads that is very similar to the one you posted earlier.

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article039/A-P1.htm

Atilla the Fun

Thanks. I see they lost 35 horses by not going with roller lifters. I also see yet more evidence that guys with 350s don't need 195 cc + sized intake ports.


I'm working on a SBF 392W with RHS 180cc iron heads and a custom cam specced by myself. It should hit 545 ft-lbs around 3500 rpm, on 91 octane. It'll be dynoed with 4 different intake manifolds. 2 carbureted, 2 injected.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Who do you recommend for good converters?

88fastgta

iTrader: (9)

well im dropping in a tci streetfighter converter in my car this sunday... its a 10 inch 3000 stall.... i daily drive my car so i hope its not a mis match... i currently have a corvette stall which is around 2000.... its better than stock but still boring to me.... everyone keeps sying 2800+ is violent... i dont know what you mean by that......

Atilla the Fun

For what you're doing, if I was going to daily drive it, with a couple of quarter mile blasts every other weekend during warm weather, I'd install a B&M Holeshot 2000, then tune for it. If you have a late model econo-car for commuting, then you can try whatever suits your fancy.

Atilla the Fun

I've tried a 3400 stall that wasn't violent. It was lazy. I guess that would be good in a race class requiring street radials, NOT drag radials that have DOT, but true street rubber. That wouldn't roll from a dead stop, across the white stripe, without 3100 rpm. I can't describe how I hated it. I got it second hand for cheap, and after trying it, I literally threw it in the trash.

88fastgta

iTrader: (9)

well orr89rocz had a 2800 stall in his l98 with bolt ons with stock heads and had great results. i think he even had a stock 700r4 back then... i have done alot more than him back when he had his bolt on l98 and my vette stall feels lazy to me... so i would think me going 200 more rpms would suit my needs..

Atilla the Fun

There's a biblically huge difference between a lazy engine/converter/car combo, and a lazy converter itself.

Atilla the Fun

It just hit me how to help you guys better understand. So, first, understand that Yank converters are quality units, as much as I dislike how they drive in traffic. That said, they have so very much good info on their website, and you should spend a couple of hours finding and reading all of it. www.converter.cc
Again I re-qualify that cams are for low end, heads are for top end. Stock LS1 cams do neither, and most aftermarket LSx cams are top-end. Those LSx guys rely too heavily on their fancy PCMs to save them from their huge cams. But for winning races, the big cam and high stall is correct. You just don't need to suffer it in daily driving.
correct moderate cam w/ correct moderate heads w/ correct moderate stall w/ correct moderate power adder always beats huge cam / ported stock heads w/ Yank or vigilante converter w/ no power adder.
If you're gonna daily drive it, you can't take their wrong approach of trying to win the most races for the least money. And their way really ends up costing far more.
Even with a Whipple, keeping the converter moderate will save you enough on your rear axle to half pay for the Whipple. And what you save on the heads gets you from 50% to 75%. And what you save on the converter gets you from 75% to 88%. Looking good yet? It should. Because in the first month alone, what you save on gas in traffic will recover you the last 12%.

skinny z

Well here's the thing.
I'd like to build a 6" rodded 383 based on my 350 block. It will need to go to the first oversize considering I'll need new pistons. I'll use my Vortecs which were cleaned up last refresh with a .006" cut. I would anticipate my current chamber volume at 63cc although I will measure to be sure before I drop any cash on components.
With the 350 my XR276HR (276/282 adv, 224/230 w/ 1.5 rockers) works well with a 10:1 SCR. With the cam installed straight up, and taking into account the slightly longer duration offered by the 1.6 rockers, my DCR comes in at around 8:1. Works great on 94 octane. (Have to watch my operating temps).
With the 383, I have to build a compromise before I upgrade to a better aluminum head.
My thinking is this way (with a few assumptions). Using a 7cc piston, a 4.03" bore, 3.75" crank, 6" rod, 63cc iron head and a stock deck height of .025", my SCR would roll in at about 11:1 using a .015" gasket. Quench would be at .040". That's what I'm after but only with the head upgrade.
To keep the Vortecs happy, I obviously have to drop the compression to something more like what I had with the 350. I've read before what you had to say about NOT using head gaskets to achieve a final SCR but in this case, this is where the compromise comes in. Using a OEM type .051" head gasket will drop my SCR to a more reasonable 10:1.
My only concern is that the quench goes up to a rather fat .076". I'm afraid some of my resistance to detonation will be lost.
I'm more or less at sea level. Last years best passes came with a density altitude of 300' BELOW sea level!
Thoughts? Opinions?

Atilla the Fun

Before I even finish reading what you just posted, let me remind you that stock Vortecs are not 64cc. They were wrongly advertised that way. They're really closer to 61 cc to start with. Yours are now closer to 60 cc.

Atilla the Fun

My math matches yours fairly well, but yours has some errors. Before we poke a hole in your theory, let's consider the gaskets. If your math was perfect, the FelPro 0.051" gaskets would put you about 10.08:1, while the GM 0.051" gaskets would be 10.10:1. But that's picking nits.
First, your block. Spec is 9.025" deck, but production tolerance could mean 9.024". And When you clean the old gaskets off, there goes another thousandth. Figure no error on the modern crank and rods and pistons, add a thousandth of error for bearing wear, and now use 9.023". Seems we're picking nits again, but I'm all about precision.
Don't even get me started on crevice volume, just assume there isn't any. Trust me, it's safer to figure none.

skinny z

That's an interesting bit of news!
That means my 350 was running at 10.5:1 with a dynamic compression ratio of 8.2:1.
That puts a whole new spin on what I thought was streetable.
One thing though, my self imposed limitations are all based on the same 64cc thinking so my build is still relevant. All the compression ratios just get moved up a half a point.
Funny too in think my cranking pressure dropped from 205 psi with an old (Clevite) flat tappet cam that measured 218 degrees at .050". When I went to the roller, cranking pressure fell to about 180. I never would have thought I had room to move up in compression ratio.
Something I'll certainly have to measure. Time to buy a burette.
Thanks.

skinny z

I can appreciate that. I like to think the same.

Atilla the Fun

Part of the drop was your later intake closing spec, but part of it was the difference in the ramps between roller and non-roller. I have one friend with Vortecs and FP1094s on a ZZ4 shortblock, and he's running the ZZ4 cam on pump premium, with 31 degrees total spark. That's 10.5:1 SCR with an IC of 33 degrees. Well, figure 34 for timing chain stretch. But he's in Ohio or Kansas or somewhere. About 2500-3000 ft elev His cranks in the 2-teens. So 213-219 psi.
I've found 63cc Vortecs. Most I've checked are 62cc, but my burette might be a wee bit off. They are mass-produced, after all.

skinny z

I've got some time before I pull the trigger on this.
I have to continue the research (much like this and thanks again) and make a few measurements. Those Vortecs of mine still have to come apart and be checked out. I had a quality valve job done on them about 25 000 miles back. As well as drilled and tapped for screw instuds and guide plates and relieved for 1.6 rockers. Not to mention beehive springs. At that time the guides were still in good shape. After beating the crap out of it last summer (towing a big fat u-haul for 2 500 miles with engine temps almost pegged at 230 degrees!) I'm afarid they might not be in such good shape this time around. I'm loath to spend any more money on them and would much rather invest in quality aluminum heads.
That would be a whole other build altogether.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

This is exactly why I am alittle bit in disagreement with what is being posted here regarding converters. I daily drove that L98 with 2800 stall and I had 2.77 gears, i had 3.27 gears, then i had 3.42 gears. Same converter from Edge racing. Custom made 9.5" unit. That car was 100x better for daily driving than stock unit. With full bolt ons it went 12.9's with just 254whp. 1.71 60 foot. Stock converter or any converter under 2400 would not have achieved those results. With it being a lockup converter for 700r4, it drove like stock at cruise. With ecm, you can control mph it locks up at so even slow crawling up hills you could force lock up and maintain stock driveability. But when you want to have some fun, crack the throttle and light up the tires from a slow roll. It hit hard and was a blast.

Same situation with my bolt on LS1 99 trans am. 2.73 gear stock converter and the car feels like a turd until 3000 rpm+. Ok maybe the cam isnt producing as much torque as it COULD below 2000 rpm, but I'm willing to bet 2800 stall or so in there that hits hard would make that car alot more fun to drive. But i'm going to try new gears first. Right now i can go WOT from a dig on wet pavement on street tires and not spin until it gets near 3000 rpm and it blows tires off.

Hell i could have daily drove my 383 car that went mid 11's with a 3600 stall and never had any problems with lockup on a 700r4 tranny. Yes it would have drove around fine with a 2000 converter but from 2000-3000 rpm would be lazy. I honestly dont think a cam would make the difference on that combo. small cam small converter on that same car would not hang with that 383. That motor got up in the high rpms and pulled like a freight train. I never seen a quick car with a mild converter. Quick car with milder cams? yes, i've seen plenty of those but they didnt have mild converters.

If your buildiing a hot motor for a daily driver to limit yourself with a mild converter why even build the motor inthe first place. If your looking for a daily driver and mild converter manners, your not looking for hp. Just my

Atilla the Fun

I really like this calm, conversational presentation. I myself recently failed to keep it calm and conversational, but this is how it needs to be.
I can say the exact same about switching from any stock converter up to a 2000 stall. It makes the car 100% better to drive. I have never tried an Edge Racing brand converter. I can't see how they could be dramatically better than others, since converter guts are basically all the same bits.
Your '99 T/A with 2.73:1 gears is exactly what I was talking about. The best fix isn't way more stall. It's a little more stall, a little more gear, and a cam with a much earlier intake lobe. did you see my recent cam thread in the LSx sub-forum? switching the LQ9 from the stock cam, (also used in '01-'02 LS1) to the 210/218-114+4 cam added 20 ft-lbs at 1500 rpm. That, with a 2000 stall and a 3.08:1 gear, would make the car feel a thousand times better.
If it's a hot motor as you say, then it isn't a daily driver, it's a race car you're having to endure for no good reason. If it's a daily driver, cam it as such, converter it as such, and let the heads and nitrous do their jobs. Daily drivers don't run drag radials. Modest converters will throw you back in the seat as hard as street radials can hook.
The 1% of you on this forum who are running drag radials are back in that registered race car category, suffering because you're unwilling to open your mind and try to grasp what I learned the hard way. I've done it your way, and now I'm trying to give you something better, at no extra cost to you. And once you try it the way I'm telling you, you'll thank me and yourself. But until you try it my way, you can't nay say me. Use me now, because my doc gave me bad news. question me now, because in a year I won't be able to answer.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

i suppose now my question is will a place sell 8 1.5 rockers and 8 1.6 and not kill me on price.

Atilla the Fun

Sure. Split sets are listed in all the catalogs. Summit, Jegs, Competition Products, take your pick. Remember that you need the narrow-body versions.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

ok will do. do they need to be self aligning in a vortec engine??

Atilla the Fun

I think all the narrow bodies are self aligning. If your heads have pushrod slots, just gun-drill them out with a 1/2" drill bit. By the way, this is also usually sufficient to allow 1.6:1 rockers. On the intakes, you might try a 7/16" bit. It's been a while since I did it. But don't drill until your rockers are in your little pink paws.
Tonight I'll get to my basement with my bits, and pull a Vortec head off the shelf, just to be sure.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

pink?? been a heavy equipment mechanic for 22 years. ok dirty pink. again thanks.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I was contemplating some 3.42's because although its my daily driver currently, I do like to run it at the track occassionally. It is on street tires but I dont believe drag radials are race car only. They just wear abit quicker but overall feel is good compared to regular street tire. Regardless, I do want to cam this car but didnt want to do heads since stock heads would do all that I need this motor to do. Close to 400whp can easily be had with plenty of bottom end with stock heads. I like the 2.73's for highway cruisng since here in Houston, LOTS OF HIGHWAY driving I figured abit more stall to get higher up in the rpm range would make it feel stronger because on the 1-2 shift you can really feel the car jerk down because of the large gear drop and the converter just isnt loose enough to allow smooth transition.
Since i dont have another ride this car cant have down time. I may do gear swap for now. Was also thinking 3.73's or 3.90's for better 1/4 mile and 1/8 mile performance over the 2.73-3.23 range. Should make a fun car even with stock converter.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

come on now do a cam swap. i have the tools and a garage to do it in. pick one and come on over. between both of us we can have it done in a good time. i also know people that do custom tunes here in town if needed.

Atilla the Fun

With 26" tires, 2.73s will be 1600 at 65. 3.08s will be 1800. 3.23s will be 1900, 3.42s will be 2000 3.73s will be 2200. I've tried them all. If you have a very quiet exhaust, the 3.73s are great. If you have a very loud exhaust, then just find a salvaged 3.23:1 posi disc rear from a front-end-totalled one like yours.
I don't see how anyone can dislike the 1-2 tire chirp. It tells the world you have a shift kit. Most people can't say that. It's like the ultimate brag. Ferrari says their flappy padle gearbok can shift in 100 milliseconds. A shift-kittted 700R-4 can do it in 13 milliseconds. A reprogrammed 4L60E can too. If you don't like it, have the PCM tweaked. It's cheaper and easier than a converter.
You'll have to get the PCM done anyway to go with your new rear gears.
Get the 3.23s, then you can drive those while putting 3.73s and a stronger Eaton in your original rear. Then if you explode either one, you're only down for a few hours.

88fastgta

iTrader: (9)

well i will have my 10'' tci 3000 stall converter in this sunday... i will tell you how it feels compared to the vette stall.... my dad also says that it will wake my car up and make my car feel like a complete animal.... he has been building th400's and 700r4s for years and built my motor with me......

Homer

iTrader: (1)

Atilla,
I'm sorry to hear your bad news. I will pray for your health.
You said you wanted to help with our builds. Here are my goals:
1. A street car that accellerates well from 0 to 80 mph. After that, I don't care.
2. A car that corners. No drag radials, slicks, minitubs, roll cages 90/10 shocks for me.
3. To learn how to build and tune a motor and car. What to expect at a machine shop. This car is my phase I. If it turns out really nice, there might not be a phase II.
4. To retain my 700R4. So I need a motor to run over a large RPM range.
5. Working AC.
6. It would be nice if I could beat my friends LS1 z28 6 speed with exhaust and cold air kit. If not, that's okay too.
7. Some semblance of mileage. I wouldn't be such a stickler if these cars could be fitted with larger gas tanks. I will lean towards retaining EGR to increase mileage.

Here's what I have:
1. a 1991 RS 305 auto with T tops. Last year I got my first timeslip (it runs 16.3's!)
2. a 400 I bought locally. It has original heads, and has crank, flexplate, and balancer. Hopefully it has never been rebuilt and can be used.
3. MSD box, cap, rotor coil, wires new in box.
4. Accel 1550 throttle body new off ebay. If I wind up with too much throttle body, That won't be a drawback because I'm going to use dry flow MPFI with stock computer and EBL.
5. 36 lb/hr accel injectors used.

Also on my shopping list:
1. Subframe connectors
2. snow performance water injection. So I can lean out cruise, and possibly more compression.
3. AFR heads. I'm thinking somewhere between 180 and 210 range. Should I get ceramic coated chambers and pistons?
4. Dry flow efi manifold. The accel single plane catches my eye. Is it too big?

Here's what I DON'T want:
1. Solid roller cam. I think a hydraulic roller would work well enough. Besides, I'm too much of a wuss to adjust a solid correctly.
2. blower, turbo, or nitrous. I want something simple to learn to tune.
3. E85 capability. I think Dual fuel would be a really hot ticket for a forced induction car. Too complex for me.

Thanks for all the info on converters. My head is about to explode. (remember when we were no nothing kids and everything was black and white?) I've been trolling this board for info for like ten years, I think it's time to move forward with my project. Bought my car about three years ago.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I've only delved into converter science in bits and pieces. Best advice I can offer is if you go for anything other than an off-the-shelf piece, tell whomever you're considering purchasing from everything possible about your car and what you'll be doing with it. If you don't square with them, they can't give you what you're looking for.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Agreed, the first try with my turbo car's converter was way off but i ran the season since i didnt want to disassemble the car again. Over winter I had them restall it with alot more information on the car and how the current converter was working. They got this one right thankfully.

Atilla the Fun

Ok Homer, what's the budget?
For what you've typed, even a 60-over 400 block will be okay, so long as it's NOT a factory 4-bolt block.
Go back to the 8th post of this thread, review that 400, and tell me what's wrong with you copying that.
the Accel single plane is neat, but isn't right for such a build. The SuperRam would be a bit better, but I'd have the AirGap modified to accept 8 injectors.
To make use of this engine, you'll need hooker's 1.75" long tube headers.
Get back to me about your budget and post 8, then we can go from there.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

the fact is that most people dont give the correct info. when i was buying my vig converter with a 3000 stall for my 2002 truck with all mods and nitrous they asked a lot of questions.i actually waited and went and got them even more info. when i put it in it stalled pefectly at 3000 rpm's. even tuned in the lock up on it to come in starting in second third and fourth.

Atilla the Fun

700R-4s were designed to be capable of converter lock up in second, third and fourth, as you describe. I never found any situation where I wanted the converter locked in second gear, no matter what the rest of my combo was.