okay here is the deal. i found a pretty good deal on a 327 from a 66 corvette bored .040 over and i was wonderig what parts i could intertange from my 305? would the cylinder heads, intake manifold, exhaust, essentially anything. this would be my first rebuild and im really eager to get started.
and one other thing, would this bee a good cam to put in? im not looking for anything super amazing, just something good. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-Ch...Q5fAccessories

 

Using the 305 heads is a good idea for the accessory holes, the modern spark plugs, and the hardened exhaust seats, but you might get too much compression if the pistons aren't dished. I bet they're flat-tops. That'd put you around 10.3:1 :-(

The ECK274 cam specs out at 258/269 advertised, 194/203 at 0.050", 0.390/0.410" lift, on an incorrect lobe sep. The correct sep would be 112, but this cam doesn't have it. It'd be good on a 283.

Since it's a 327 with 305 heads, if it is flat tops I'd use this cam, installed 4 degrees late:http://www.competitionproducts.com/E...ctinfo/E1029M/
That should keep you away from detonation due to dynamic compression, it'll still idle well, and give strong power to 5500 rpm.

 

awesome man. would it be better to just put 350 heads on there instead??

 

That depends on WHICH 350 heads. If you can get 062 or 906 heads, then you'd have it as good as one should realistically expect. In that case, the ideal cam changes somewhat.

 

Did you use your exuast manifold. I have a 327 and the last stud doesn't work

 

Later SBC heads have two bolt holes at the front of the head. Stock thirdgen manifolds use the hole that doesn't exist on early heads. Usually if you have that problem, you'll also have a problem with the thirdgen manifolds dumping right where the dipstick is located on earlier blocks.

 

My drivers side for some reason seems to work. It is the closest to the firewall on the passengers side that doesent line up. The first five do, it is the last one that doesn't. The problem is that it leaks a lot of air that I can hear. It bugs me so bad. Is there something I can do to fix it.

 

Did you check the manifold for warping?

 

No I unbolted it to and saw that it is missing one bolt, but it won't line up so I just will be short a bolt, but I may replace gaskets and goop them up with gasket sealear for the time being. Any good sealer that will withstand the heat?

 

Permatex red RTV

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-F8116.../dp/B0002UEN1A

If a manifold is warped, gaskets or silicone won't do a good job of fixing the leaks.

 

I am going to put a straight edge on them tommorow to check, but with not being able to put all bolts in, my choices are limited. I am just trying to get by untill I get some headers next year

 

Could always tap that last hole.

 

Ya. In order to do that I would either have to remove heater and ac box or remove motor. No room. I am hoping a lot of goop will get me by for a while

 

I'll be perfectly honest with you. It probably wont. Headers (and cast manifolds) get INSANELY hot.

Any particular reason you can't pick up a set of bargain headers now? Just wondering. I'd suggest either that or snatching up a set of 062/906 vortecs out of a j/y.

 

Main reason I guess is fittement. I do not know of these headers you speak off so I will look them up now. Will they fit directly to my exuast? Also I guess I have to figure out which headers I can use on my 327 because I have now learned that only 5 of the six bolt holes line up with my existing manifold

 

Do you mean heads?? If so, I am not that mechanically inclined. I can take everything off, then put everything back, but it is the adjustments I have problems with. I don't know how to adjust valves properly.

 

I used a set of 305 heads on a 350 with flat top pistons and it worked fine on pump gas with a Comp XE274 camshaft. The 327 would have less compression than I had. My heads were milled as well, so compression was over 11:1.... 10.3:1 would be fine on on pump gas with the right cam.