engine swap done now need help
engine swap done now need help
ok so the car was a v6 fi
ok so i just my 350 carb'd put in today
its a 70's model 350
im new to all this i had a friend help me put it in
engine and tranny are all in
so i need recommendations on a non computer controlled distributor
and instruction on how to wire it up
links plz as well
thanks
and i got my mallory 4309 in today
waiting on my fitting to come in tomorrow
but which line is the return and which one is the feed line
ok so i just my 350 carb'd put in today
its a 70's model 350
im new to all this i had a friend help me put it in
engine and tranny are all in
so i need recommendations on a non computer controlled distributor
and instruction on how to wire it up
links plz as well
thanks
and i got my mallory 4309 in today
waiting on my fitting to come in tomorrow
but which line is the return and which one is the feed line
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
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From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: engine swap done now need help
Any vac adv HEI dist is fine - grab one off the shelf at local parts store
Cut old dist connector, white wire to TACH on new dist, pink wire to BATT on new dist.
Larger line is the feed line, smaller one is return - there is also one more smaller one - it runs to the fuel evap canister - you can grab a piece of rubber fuel line and route this third line down under the car so that if it ever leaks there won't be gas squirting on your hot engine or ignition source.
On the Mallory 4309, the return hose runs to the bottom of the Mallory, the feed line runs in and out on any of the side ports.
The return line is a 5/16's line, so you'll need a brass fitting that screws into the Mallory port and has a 5/16 hose barb, and how ever much 5/16 inside diameter FUEL INJECTION hose you need (make sure to get fuel injection and not standard fuel hose as the pressure might be too much to standard fuel hose - fuel inj hose will say "fuel injection on it, it's a little over $3 a foot compared to reg fuel hose that is about 50 cents a foot).
The feed line is 3/8, so you need 2 more brass fittings that will screw into the Mallory side ports that have a 3/8 hose barb on the other end (one for the feed line into the Mallory, one for the feed line out of the Mallory to the carb).
The Mallory side is a standard NPT fitting, so you can get these fittings at any local hardware store in the plumbing section.
Cut old dist connector, white wire to TACH on new dist, pink wire to BATT on new dist.
Larger line is the feed line, smaller one is return - there is also one more smaller one - it runs to the fuel evap canister - you can grab a piece of rubber fuel line and route this third line down under the car so that if it ever leaks there won't be gas squirting on your hot engine or ignition source.
On the Mallory 4309, the return hose runs to the bottom of the Mallory, the feed line runs in and out on any of the side ports.
The return line is a 5/16's line, so you'll need a brass fitting that screws into the Mallory port and has a 5/16 hose barb, and how ever much 5/16 inside diameter FUEL INJECTION hose you need (make sure to get fuel injection and not standard fuel hose as the pressure might be too much to standard fuel hose - fuel inj hose will say "fuel injection on it, it's a little over $3 a foot compared to reg fuel hose that is about 50 cents a foot).
The feed line is 3/8, so you need 2 more brass fittings that will screw into the Mallory side ports that have a 3/8 hose barb on the other end (one for the feed line into the Mallory, one for the feed line out of the Mallory to the carb).
The Mallory side is a standard NPT fitting, so you can get these fittings at any local hardware store in the plumbing section.
Re: engine swap done now need help
Any vac adv HEI dist is fine - grab one off the shelf at local parts store
Cut old dist connector, white wire to TACH on new dist, pink wire to BATT on new dist.
Larger line is the feed line, smaller one is return - there is also one more smaller one - it runs to the fuel evap canister - you can grab a piece of rubber fuel line and route this third line down under the car so that if it ever leaks there won't be gas squirting on your hot engine or ignition source.
On the Mallory 4309, the return hose runs to the bottom of the Mallory, the feed line runs in and out on any of the side ports.
The return line is a 5/16's line, so you'll need a brass fitting that screws into the Mallory port and has a 5/16 hose barb, and how ever much 5/16 inside diameter FUEL INJECTION hose you need (make sure to get fuel injection and not standard fuel hose as the pressure might be too much to standard fuel hose - fuel inj hose will say "fuel injection on it, it's a little over $3 a foot compared to reg fuel hose that is about 50 cents a foot).
The feed line is 3/8, so you need 2 more brass fittings that will screw into the Mallory side ports that have a 3/8 hose barb on the other end (one for the feed line into the Mallory, one for the feed line out of the Mallory to the carb).
The Mallory side is a standard NPT fitting, so you can get these fittings at any local hardware store in the plumbing section.
Cut old dist connector, white wire to TACH on new dist, pink wire to BATT on new dist.
Larger line is the feed line, smaller one is return - there is also one more smaller one - it runs to the fuel evap canister - you can grab a piece of rubber fuel line and route this third line down under the car so that if it ever leaks there won't be gas squirting on your hot engine or ignition source.
On the Mallory 4309, the return hose runs to the bottom of the Mallory, the feed line runs in and out on any of the side ports.
The return line is a 5/16's line, so you'll need a brass fitting that screws into the Mallory port and has a 5/16 hose barb, and how ever much 5/16 inside diameter FUEL INJECTION hose you need (make sure to get fuel injection and not standard fuel hose as the pressure might be too much to standard fuel hose - fuel inj hose will say "fuel injection on it, it's a little over $3 a foot compared to reg fuel hose that is about 50 cents a foot).
The feed line is 3/8, so you need 2 more brass fittings that will screw into the Mallory side ports that have a 3/8 hose barb on the other end (one for the feed line into the Mallory, one for the feed line out of the Mallory to the carb).
The Mallory side is a standard NPT fitting, so you can get these fittings at any local hardware store in the plumbing section.
on the cannister feed line can i just put a clamp on the end of it to not let any fuel come out
i currently only have open headers until i get it all running than i will buy the y pipe and so on
dont know if it will backfire or anything yet so dont want anything to happen yet lol
and does the dist power wire need to be on a straight wire to battery or to a wire to 12v source when key is turned?
sorry im new to all this and this is my first project
Last edited by sethorama; Aug 18, 2010 at 01:10 AM.
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From: Ogden UT
Car: '88 Camaro (Gone...)
Re: engine swap done now need help
You'll want to leave that line open, that's how your gas tank will "vent" and release all the pressure that will build up inside. Otherwise you'll have problems. If you leave it open, vapor is all that should come out, not actual liquid fuel.
And camaronewbie has it right, use the pink wire from the original distributor for the "BAT" terminal on your new distributor, that's the switched source you want. The wire is already there, just cut it and crimp a connector on it. The wire is pink, it might have a black stripe on it, can't remember for sure right now.
And camaronewbie has it right, use the pink wire from the original distributor for the "BAT" terminal on your new distributor, that's the switched source you want. The wire is already there, just cut it and crimp a connector on it. The wire is pink, it might have a black stripe on it, can't remember for sure right now.
Re: engine swap done now need help
You'll want to leave that line open, that's how your gas tank will "vent" and release all the pressure that will build up inside. Otherwise you'll have problems. If you leave it open, vapor is all that should come out, not actual liquid fuel.
And camaronewbie has it right, use the pink wire from the original distributor for the "BAT" terminal on your new distributor, that's the switched source you want. The wire is already there, just cut it and crimp a connector on it. The wire is pink, it might have a black stripe on it, can't remember for sure right now.
And camaronewbie has it right, use the pink wire from the original distributor for the "BAT" terminal on your new distributor, that's the switched source you want. The wire is already there, just cut it and crimp a connector on it. The wire is pink, it might have a black stripe on it, can't remember for sure right now.
when i bought the car the motor was already out just had a bunch of wires hanging
i already pull the passager side wiring out of it
but all the drivers side is intact
Senior Member
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 753
Likes: 0
From: Ogden UT
Car: '88 Camaro (Gone...)
Re: engine swap done now need help
The wires will be there then, because both the tach and ignition wires come from the drivers side harness. The passenger side has all the EFI stuff, unless you have a manual transmission, in which case the backup lights are on the passenger harness as well if I remember correctly.
But just keep looking, if the drivers side wiring is intact, the wires will be there I promise.
I just went out to my car to check, and the ignition wire is pink with a black stripe (it's a 12 gauge wire, so it's heavier than most others in the engine bay, should be able to find it). The tach wire is white, but if you go back a bit there's a connector on it and it changes to a white wire with a black stripe. I swapped from a V6 to V8 as well
But just keep looking, if the drivers side wiring is intact, the wires will be there I promise.
I just went out to my car to check, and the ignition wire is pink with a black stripe (it's a 12 gauge wire, so it's heavier than most others in the engine bay, should be able to find it). The tach wire is white, but if you go back a bit there's a connector on it and it changes to a white wire with a black stripe. I swapped from a V6 to V8 as well
Re: engine swap done now need help
The wires will be there then, because both the tach and ignition wires come from the drivers side harness. The passenger side has all the EFI stuff, unless you have a manual transmission, in which case the backup lights are on the passenger harness as well if I remember correctly.
But just keep looking, if the drivers side wiring is intact, the wires will be there I promise.
I just went out to my car to check, and the ignition wire is pink with a black stripe (it's a 12 gauge wire, so it's heavier than most others in the engine bay, should be able to find it). The tach wire is white, but if you go back a bit there's a connector on it and it changes to a white wire with a black stripe. I swapped from a V6 to V8 as well
But just keep looking, if the drivers side wiring is intact, the wires will be there I promise.
I just went out to my car to check, and the ignition wire is pink with a black stripe (it's a 12 gauge wire, so it's heavier than most others in the engine bay, should be able to find it). The tach wire is white, but if you go back a bit there's a connector on it and it changes to a white wire with a black stripe. I swapped from a V6 to V8 as well
ill check it when i get off of work
thanks again
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