that paint will not last. It will burn off in weeks. I did the same thing. I even used VHT paint. Your best bet is to invest in something, I recommend JET-HOT Coated headers... which you can get done in chrome or black... check them out. will cut your engine compartment temp in half...

Build looks good though!!!!! Keep up the good work...

 

If you changed the distributor, the knock sensor can't talk to it.

 

even 1200 degree engine paint flakes right off those manifolds between high heat and poor contact surface ... already tried it

 

No need to hack any wires. The ECM harness can be removed in its entirety without affecting any of your remaining stuff. Just pull it through the pass side fender.

 

how much did the new engine and intake/carb cost you? i am really interested cuz i am in the same situation but my engine and tranny are bad - tell me where you ordered from if you can remember thanks~!

 

Sorry bout my absence we haven't got to work on it since my last update. It ****ing sucks.
Okay I ran into a problem guys...grrr

Had to get a newflex plate of course because the last one would not fit around the back of the engine. The new one fits but its the larger one with more teeth. Problem is the starter wont fit.

What is the problem? It should fit. Its brand new and argh
Set backs, so ****ing annoying. Now this?!


The engine I got from jegs for around 1600$ with the freight.
The intake manifold was like 150$ I forget, the rest is little minor things haha, that or I already had pretty much new from my 305

 

You probably have a 168-tooth flywheel (14"). You need a 153-tooth flywheel (~12.75") to us a 3rd gen starter.

 

lol it wouldnt fit. I had to get the bigger one

 

"It" didn't fit? What "it"? The stock '86?

Get an '85-earlier 153-tooth flexplate.

 

Your old flexplate wouldn't mount to the crank because the crank's different between a one and two piece rear seal. You can go with a smaller fllexplate for the two-piece rear seal or purchase an older starter to fit your larger flexplate.

Keep the larger flexplate, though, and your inspection cover won't fit without some modification.

 

Lucas Oil Products - Engine Break-In Oil Additive

Any of you ever use this stuff? I figured atleast for the first start since its just going to sit there and be dumped right after I'd just buy an additive and use valvoline/castrol. Isn't the additive basically what I'm missing?

I think we may start back on the car today so.

http://www.autobarn.net/royal-purple-break-in-oil.html <------------Anyone ever use this for the break in period?

"Buy any oil you want and add a break in additive from Redline or break in oil from Royal Purple."

And about priming the oil pump, heres some things I ran across:

"Did you fill the oil filter with oil first? I've never had a SBC not prime on it's own. Overfill the crankcase with a couple of quarts which would submerge the pump body, but I really don't see the need.
I've always just left the plugs out and spun it over with the starter until I get oil pressure.Put the plugs in and go. If the motor was lubed when assembled its not gonna hurt anything to spin it over with the starter for a few seconds until pressure builds."

How about those methods?


"Ok, I put a total of 8 quarts of oil in the engine. Turned over the engine with the battery, the oil pressure started to come up. It topped off at 60psi on the gauge. As soon as I stopped cranking the engine over, the pressure dropped back to "0". I then drained out 3 quarts of oil. I'm now at 5 quarts of oil. Turned the engine over with the bettery, the pressure went back up to 60psi on the gauge. At this point, I feel that due to the length of time the engine did not run, that it lost it's prime. It looks like 8 quarts of oil was what it took for my pump to get primed. Perhaps if you are faced with this same problem one day, it will work for you. I thank you for your support."

 

After the cam break in, Ive heard your suppose to anywhere from 30-100 miles before changing the oil.

RP is suppose to be good break in oil but if I'm going to be flushing the first oil within 30-100 miles then what are some good options?

I don't really want to put 50$ RP for initial cam/engine break in just to flush out in 30-100 miles. I have no problem doing it for majority of the break in till 500 miles.

 

Don't use synthetic of any kind until Step 12.

I would change the oil after the cam break-in, personally.

 

This RP break in oil isn't suppose to be synthetic.
I'll prob just do 30 miles after cam break in.

So could I just use say valvoline with some kind of additive to begin with?
What would be best if any at all?

Additive + w/e vs. Break in oil
Since you have to quickly change filter and oil soon after cam break in I figured something like the above then when I change it to something like RP break in oil ti'll 500 miles or so.

 

You've got a flat tappet cam and any kind of synthetic is a gamble. I've always used Rotella in my non-roller motors. Just add some break-in additive designed for flat tappet cams. Seems I used a Lucas additive last time that specifically had ZDDP in it.

 

I'm pretty sure I said it earlier in this thread, but I'm not going to take the time now to go look...

But...

With flat tappet cam/lifters, use diesel oil rated CI-4++/SL. Do not use the later CJ-4/SM rated oils, they also have reduced ZDDP (Including some Rotella, like the T6).

 

Like I said, its not synthetic anyway.

Update; The engine is in the car. End of update.

Its not bolted down yet, should be back on it Saturday grrrr
This ****ing retarded.

 

Okay so the engine is bolted down and now just lacks a few things before priming and starting. We had to disconnected the transmision cooler lines becuase they ended up in the wrong place...That sucked so hard...Spent hours upon hours in the cold fixing that hahaha...Anyway I'm excited!

So close to getting her running! Anyway I just bought some of this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-ZDD...Q5fAccessories

I figured I would use some Rotella, valvoline or castrol, 10w30

 

She almost started tonight!! OMG so close!
Anyway towing it to a shop that fixed the timing and tdc situation last time. Cost me 65$ with towing.

So yay!

 

i am doing this same swap 305 carb to a 350 carb i bought a crate motor from gm was wondering if some one can point me in the right direction,

I am wondering if i can pass inspection in NJ with a Vacuum advance dist. and carb, or can i keep the computer controlled carb and dist. on?? witch would be best?

i pulled off the smog pump and every thing