327sleeper88

i did some more mock up and clearance checking.

I need to get an oil pump pick up extension because i have about .430" pump to pan clearance (.325" max is recommended)





Sorry, junk phone camera...



I have enough oil pump drive shaft endplay




gear marking compound...



just wanted to make sure that the oil pump shaft is long enough. with all the aftermarket parts, some things don't quite go together good the first time.



Crankshaft endplay came in at .006"

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

Sssiiighhh!!!

I'm anxious to hear it!!!

327sleeper88

I also started on mounting my fuel system. Includes a mallory 250 GHP pump, canton racing fuel filter, -12an line from tank to filter, -10 an from filter to pump, and a -10 for the feed and return line.





Why is it that no one has a picture of them? i see plenty of pictures of cars, but not of the person driving the car. well this is me!

327sleeper88

The advantage with the pressed on gear is protect the billet steel cam. with the everwear gear, you can run a stock iron gear, a bronze gear, or an msd composite gear. normally you are forced to run a bronze gear on a billet steel SR cam so that the gear on the dizzy wears out, and not the $400 cam.

On big inch motors, a cam that would be big on a 454 is moderate for a 555. my peak HP should be at 7000prm. a cam this big in a 454 would run in the 4000-8000+ range, but in a 555 it will run in the 3200-7200 range.

The cam matches the combo: 12.3:1 cr, 365cc intake ports, 1150Cfm dominator. it will be a little rough on the street, but the bigger the motor, the easier it is to run a big cam.

You need to move a lot of air to make big HP!

DAREDEVIL 1

Ok, my engine is 600 CI with a full swap billet cam 10.5:1 comp and mine is not that big ?!!!!!

Are u gonna build this engine for the drag strip ?

Where did u get the cam, Bob Madera ??

AlkyIROC

Depends how much seat pressure is required for the camshaft. I currently have a smaller cam and use triple springs.

327sleeper88

its going to be street/strip. but more street. probably 5000 miles a year.

i forget what bullet said, but i had them do a street/strip grind as far as ramp rates go so that my valvetrain will last on the street. since i won't be at 7500 very often, i didn't need a much bigger spring.

1986Z28OWNER

iTrader: (1)

Cam Is big yes, but seems to match the combo alright, ).006" crank endplay is perfect, I usually want to see between 0.003-0.008", and going to bigger than 0.010". And to Dare devil, It comes to to cylinder Pressure, with 10.5:1 you need a small cam(Esp duration) to build cylinder pressure. Were you planning on running pan evacs or a Vaccum pump? If you plan on doing a vaccum pump id ditch that rubber 1 Pc. oil pan gaskets, both SCE and cometic make very nice 4 pc. oil pan gasket set, and when installed properly can pull 11-12" of crankcase vaccum, and i have never seen one leak. Also, the 4 pc. pan gaskets are alot thinner, and should bring you within spec on your pickup to pan clearance.

BrandonSB

thats alot of hp in the streets.. cops are gonna love you good luck with the build though, its looking good!

327sleeper88

I don't think ill be running a vacuum pump or EVAC. This is going to have a lot of street time as well as a street exhaust (well kinda...). I did some reading on vacuum pumps and they aren't recommended for continuous street use. Plus i already have standard tension oil rings.

Well tonight is short block assembly night. i just ordered my lifters and shaft mount rocker arms.


I am actually getting ISKY RED ZONE EXZ lifters. they have no needle bearings. Plus with my 700lb open spring pressure, i need a little extra insurance. that insurance cost me $850

My timing set is a Howards billet set. it has an integrated thrust bearing on the block side so that i don't need to worry about wearing the block when using the cam button.

the timing cover is a Cloyes two piece with a built in cam button. it can be adjusted without taking off the timing cover.

I should have the lifters this week, but the T&D rockers won't be here until next week. once all that gets here, i will measure up for some custom pushrods, and then get some ed quay headers ordered.

Almost done!!

Daz

iTrader: (1)

check out the morel lifters if its not too late..

327sleeper88

I pretty much did research on all the solid roller lifter options. Howards pro max, howards direct lube, comp cams elite, crower hippo, lunati/morel, crane.

I have heard the most good things about the isky red zones. and i already have them ordered, should be here this week.

327sleeper88

The lifters came sooner than i thought! they got here Wednesday!

I got the whole short block finished. rod bolts stretched, oil pan sealed, got the timing pointed zeroed in, and figured how i am going to mount the crank trigger.

327sleeper88

327sleeper88

I finally got the heads back! had a little port work done and some chamber cleaning up. they springs are 236lb @ seat, about 720lb @ max lift. they have custom SI valves and titanium retainers.

I have to clearance each chamber because the big piston dome hits on every cylinder...

once i get my T&D shaft rockers, all i need to do is measure up pushrods, and order some ed quay headers.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

my my...i`m drooling over here!!

weberflorida

iTrader: (2)

very very BA!!! Keep up the good work

327sleeper88

Sorry its been a while, but i got a lot done. i just finished moving, so that was a setback.


Teaser!!








The transmission of choice is an ATI reverse manual Th-400. Torque converter will be a hughes 4000 stall with the heavy duty option.

327sleeper88

The radiator is a Champion 4 core "monster series." seems like decent quality for the price ($450 with fans and shroud)



I got the Ed Quay's finally ordered with 2-1/4" primaries and 4" collectors. they are sweet! Sorry i don't have pictures yet...

BobRSSS

What headers are you using?

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

He just stated Ed Quay 2 1/4"

BobRSSS

Thanks. How much were they?

327sleeper88

they were $850 to my door. $80 to step up from a 2-1/8" tube, $40 for cones in the collectors, and $10 each for an O2 fitting (x2).

And good news everybody! Motor started up great the first time! no problems at all. the only video i took was 6min long and is to big to post. i will get another shorter video up soon!

BobRSSS

Thanks.

327sleeper88

here a few recent pictures of the motor, exhaust and the spohn pro series torque arm:

327sleeper88

And a note on the headers: they fit great once you get everything clearanced. I can get both sides completely in with the motor and tranny in the car. i don't need to move anything to get them in and out! +1 happy customer for ed quay headers. it is easier than the stock manifolds on the 305!

BobRSSS

Nice work. Looks like it was might have come stock in that car. Hows the front end gonna handle with the extra weight?

the solitaire

I take it the stock hood will be out of the question

Looks like an interesting build however.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Zip ties man! If it still looks like that in July I'm going to come by and clean that engine bay up while I'm visiting my parents! Awesome work otherwise.

AlkyIROC

I wish my spark plugs were that easy to access. I have the Ed Quay headers that have the loop over the frame rail on the passenger side. I see you have the other version with the loop under the car.

My engine also sits lower and is moved back which doesn't help.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I would recommend moving that Digital 6 box inside the passenger compartment. Keep it out of reach from the driver's seat (NHRA ET Sportsman rule, if that matters to you), but they don't like getting the least bit wet (ask me how I know).

327sleeper88

Should i also put the coil in the car or mount it in the engine compartment? i guess it would free up some space...

I will clean up the engine bay a lot, but right now im just testing everything. The battery will be in the trunk, and all the wires will be neatly routed. the way i have it not, it is all really easy to move and fiddle with... nothing real permanent.


I also have a video of the motor running... it has some nutty throttle response...

327sleeper88

By the way, the first few seconds of the video is when i hit to throttle the most...


while we're at it, i need some recommendations on spark plugs... i have some NGK plugs with a "7" heat range. the plugs are black, and i am wondering if i need a 6 or 5 even...

i know it is a little rich, but it seams like the plugs aren't getting hot enough to self clean???

AlkyIROC

If you're just running gasoline and not using any power adders, a -7 is fine. The coldest you might want to go is a -8. Black plugs right now is your idle mixture screws since you can't really determine what the jetting should be until you get moving.

I have my coil mounted inside the car and use a plug wire pass through connector.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I kept the coil mounted to the firewall and didn't have any problems. In the passenger compartment with the bulkhead pass-through is the cleaner approach, though.

327sleeper88

It sounds like ill move all that junk into the drivers compartment... first time builder here...lol

I also have another question, primarily aimed at people with similar motors as me (solid roller); how responsive is your oil pressure to your rpm's? meaning, is you need really slow to move, or does it reflect engine rpm instantly?

I also need a good a/f ratio gauge, preferably a dual channel one because i have an o2 bung on each header. any ideas?

onefast85

nice build...i am having a 605inch bbc pump gas motor being built for it..i had a 15.1 598 in it and it ran 8.90's with a plate kit...

nhra says the regulator cannot be mounted to the firewall..

my oil pressure is responsive with the rpm rise.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

Great job and a good thread, sounds really good. cant wait to hear some t&t run times!! but, wheres your dipstick tube??

327sleeper88

It has a moroso pan with a universal 1/4 npt dipstick on the passenger side. The headers hide it a little..

1gary

Commend you on the detail of the build and the same on the thread.

Not digging into your business.I an guessing looking back now you have ballpark $30,000 to $35,000 invested into the engine.

327sleeper88

i have another video with some good revving, and i will be driving the car for the first time today! will get a burnout video soon.

5spd-iroc

that thing revs insanely fast, i hope my full roller 406 revs like that, should have it stuffed in the car by the end of the week

327sleeper88

roller cams sure do help with throttle response, compression and valvetrain stability also help. are you running a solid roller or a hydraulic roller?


I don't know when ill have track times, but i finally got it on the road and made some very nice black lines. i am scared to have the throttle mashed for more than 2-3 seconds.... even in third from a 20 roll, bad things happen... in a good way

im not sure how close i am on my primary A/F ratio, but here are my plugs after some major right foot action. I hope there is no signs of detonation. the plugs started off black because i have an intake manifold leaks and was sucking some oil, but that is fixed. the one darker plug might be a tiny leak by that cylinder.







they seam ok, i am just glad not to see them charcoal black.

5spd-iroc

ive got a sollid roller cam in mine

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

Performer cam here. Crazy responsiveness.

1gary

So what is the latest??.

BobRSSS

Hey, motor looks sweet! I have a question about the fuel regulator. Where do the lines from the 5 ports go to? I can only figure 3 unless you use 2 for the carb feed. I'm getting ready to put a 460 BBC into my 86 IROC and I could use all the help from you guys I can get.

327sleeper88

i got a 5 port regulator just in case i decided to do a tunnel ram later down the road. 2 lines go to the carb, 1 the the pressure gauge, and the other 2 are plugged.

I am getting it dyno'd this Saturday, and im really hoping for the 800hp number...

i probably wont get any track times in the season, just some street cruising before winter hits.

BobRSSS

Good luck @ the dyno. What about the return line to the tank?

1gary

1.5 hp per cubic inch should be very do-able.I look forward to your dyno results.