327sleeper88

the return line is another -10 that comes strait out of the bottom. it is hard to see in post #75.

here is a video i finally got uploaded. my friend took it so it might take a minute to load. it was my very first burnout, and wasn't very good. i just mashed the gas in first for a second or two.

onefast85

sure sounds good.

BobRSSS

Sweet. Post some more.

327sleeper88

today went good at the dyno shop. there were no problems of any kind.

i ended up with 627 Hp and 545 lb/ft. so maybe close to 800 at the crank but it turns out that my compression is a tad high. i made best power with 32* timing.

no detonation, but just a little to hot to be safe on pump gas.

BobRSSS

Dude, crazy numbers! Thats awesome.

1gary

Just a common interest item I guess.Could you please post the dyno chart??. Maybe each run to what got you to 32 degrees timing.Very nice result that will keep your eyes wide open while on the loud peddle.

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

What an animal. Sweet project!

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

nice numbers.

rodsatheart

iTrader: (1)

Nice detailed job. Feels good when things are done right eh ? Not to many people do an assembly correctly (even automotive mfrs.) and it's nice to see someone going to that extent. I foresee a future of engine building for you. Keep up the great work and have fun.

1gary

MIA??. What's the latest??.

BleedOrange

I scrolled through this post looking for some specific info on your wiper motor installation. I recently installed a 463 in my 85 Z28. With the Comp Gold roller rockers. I had to go with the tall valve covers and they hit the wiper motor, which in most cases isnt that bad just remove it like I did. But I want to keep it street legal so I can go bust sum of these Ford punks we got runnin around here so I need wipers to get an inspection. So do you have yours installed? and if so Which motor did you use?

327sleeper88

i decided to not put my wipers back in. just a headache i didn't want to deal with at the moment.

haven't really done anything major, but i finally got around to cutting a hole in the hood. turns out i need and 8-9" tall hood scoop/cowl... but... i can adjust the carburetor without lifting the hood...

just ordered some monster cooling fans since my only problem is overheating, and the weak fans that came with the radiator just can't do it.

also ordered some 4" pipe and mandrel bends, we will see how a dual 4" exhaust goes...

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

I have an 85 and had the tall valve covers on a BBC, always had to unscrew the plastic wiper module off the motor before removing the valve cover, this is the motor withe the washer pump built in btw

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

how hot is it running?

327sleeper88

Once it gets to about 190 or so, I'll shut it down. It slowly gets hotter as I drive, doesn't matter what the outside temp is, it will creep up. I have a feeling its a lack if flow through the rad. If im moving it will take longer, but if i do a burnout ir something, it will get hot fast. The fans total are less than 30 amps, about 1000cfm each. I just ordered some derale dual 13" fans rated at 50 amps and 4000 cfm.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

power=heat, no way around that..I have the same radiator and it`s pretty efficient for what I use it for.. new motors always make alot of heat, how many miles on it? you using a thermostat or a restricter ? another thing or two to consider is the lack of a by-pass and trapped air pockets in the rear of the engine. I do run 16 volt batteries so the fans do spin faster in my deal, maybe those fans will do it for you.. nice set up though

327sleeper88

50 Miles and 5 chassis dyno pulls. No restrictor, 1-1/2" upper hose, manifld crossover. I lifted the front of the car as much as possible when I filled the rad. the super victor puts the water level several inches higher than the fill cap... Lol.

8550ta

Do you happen to know the part number of the pan that you used?

And how was it clearance wise with the headers, starter, and oil filter?

327sleeper88

the pan is a moroso 20401. kicked out sump on both sides.

my headers were 2-1/4" primaries, and i had to dent one tube to clear the pan, nothing compared to clearing the motor mounts and the a-arm with a BFH.

i used a powermaster XS-torque starter, more than an inch of clearance between the #8 tube and the back of the starter, heat-soak hasn't been an issue with the starter.

as far as the oil filter is concerned, i went with a Canton remote mount filter. my filter is where the battery used to be... From what i can tell, a stock spin on filter would be a big PITA with large tube headers...

8550ta

How big of a dent job did you have to do? I will probably be ordering the same headers and would rather get a different pan then have to dent/kink up a set of $1,000 headers.

I just helped a buddy install a set of hedmans that needed some extensive denting to fit properly, no fun.

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

If you give the proper information to Ed Quay there should be no reason to dent the headers up. I have a spin on filter with 2 3/8 headers and a Milodon pan and have no issues changing the oil. I do have to use the shorter oil filter though.

8550ta

Does your pan have kick outs?

327sleeper88

the main dents i had to do were on the #1 and # 2 tubes. they both go right by the motor mount bolts. the "dent" to clear the pan is about 1/16 deep, maybe 1/2" across... tiny compared to the dents to clear the motor mounts.

i did have to grind the a-arm down a little, but didn't go all the way through.

the passenger side was cake, but the driver side was a bit more interesting...

Homer

iTrader: (1)

Since you have had this street car a few years, how has the maintenance been? Do you have to adjust lash often? Have you had to rebuild or replace the SOLID ROLLERS?

327sleeper88

Everything has been good! I guess I forgot to post it, but i did have a small issue about a year after the initial build….

Turns out the bearing clearance was a tiny bit too tight and i spun a rod bearing. I caught it within a few miles, no damage at all. I was so paranoid about my oil pressure, and i noticed a 10psi drop across the board. Checked the oil filter right away and saw some brass color. I tore the motor apart right away and the bearings were all scuffed up. in the end, all that i needed was a crank polish and new bearings.

While all that happened, I had the heads taken to a professional head porter. Got 402 cfm @ .800 lift intake, and 298 on the exhaust. Also had a third inner spring added, as well as a new cam grind.

So all that happened in late 2012 or so….

Since then I moved to college town here in Fort Collins, CO.

I take the car out pretty often and make mince meat out of all the local imports and wannabe fast cars.


Been through a few sets of Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials plus the original tires.


I used to check the valve lash frequently, but it never changed. So now I check it every 6 months or so…


Since college, I have not had time to do anything major. No suspension upgrades, no cage, etc. it will be a while until I can get it on the dragstrip.


I did by the magnafuel prostar 500 since the old pump took a sh**.


I have made several 50+ mile trips on the interstate in 50-60 degree weather, no overheating issues at all, oil pressure goes to 60psi and doesn’t move. The TH-400 has been great since day 1.



I took some friends on a joyride recently (2 180lb dudes + me + 100lb worth of weight) and finally got some 1st gear traction. IT HAULS ***.


Also added a 400 watt coolant heater and a magnetic oil pan heater so I can take it out during nice winter days here in Colorado.


Hopefully I can make it track worthy in a year or two once I finish up in college. I have been dying to add a cage, nitrous, and a nice TH-400 with a brake. Also all the other safety stuff needs to happen also.


As it stands now, I can jump right in a drive it with thought that it isn’t going to surprise me 10min down the road.


Please let me know if anyone wants some pics that could help them in their BBC swap, I have just about worked out all the kinks!

-Josh