edit: After looking closer, the starter does engage far enough, it might have needed to be shimmed though. Look at the picture in the #3 post and you can see where it was catching the flexplate, if that looks normal?

I originally thought it wasnt far enough "towards the rear of the car"...

 

Either something isn't installed correctly, you have mismatched parts, or you've got a really weirdly machined block.

I'd check the flexplate first. You should be able to see if the flexplate torque converter mount pads are pointed in the correct direction (should be toward the torque converter, not the engine) without too much disassembly.

 

Ok, so there is actually a little more to this story.... I got my car repainted, when i went to pick it up, the painter told me "the starter was loose so i tightened it up for you". When i went to start the car, it sounded horrible. Like there was no tolerance or it wasnt lining up properly.

I drove the car home, no where else, and just had time to get up on jack stands and take a look.

So how bad is this? As you can see, a piece of the block came off with the starter. Is this a result of overtightening or could it be caused if the starter needed to be shimmed? There were no shims installed when i removed the starter, but i wasnt having any issues. Secondly, how do i fix it? I havent contacted the painter yet, and i know he was trying to do me a favor, but why in the world would you take it upon yourself to "tighten up" bolts under the car????

Thanks,
Shane

 

Okay, looks like the flexplate is properly installed.

Notice the crosshatch pattern on the shank of the starter bolts? That's known as "knurling", and is used to properly align the starter to the block with close-tolerance holes. The part of the block that is broken off is the part that the bolt knurl is supposed to align up with.

I can't say I could tell you what caused the piece to break off, but I can say the only proper way to fix it is to pull the engine, disassemble, and take the block to a shop that can properly weld up that spot and do a precision drill, tap & reaming of the hole (might require the services of more than one shop). It might be cheaper to get a different block.

 

Thanks for the reply. Definitely have to consider my options, unfortunately i just spent a good amount of money on a paint job... if this had happened the day before i would consider junking it.

If this is something that happens because of a fault in the block, or the starter not being shimmed, that's fine. If it was most likely caused by the painter overtightening the bolt, that's another story. Of course this is going to be a giant mess. Attached is another pic, the threads are still fine... would it really be that bad to use some sort of adhesive, washer, and bolt that thing back up?

Engine Info:
350 bored .040
4 bolt main - TRW forged pistons
Comp ratio w/ 64cc chambers = 9.76 to 1
4.040 bore, 5.7" rod, 3.480 stroke
Comp Cams 270H 224/224 @.060 .470/.470 lift, 110 centerline
Dart Iron Eagle 215cc heads, 64cc chamber
750 Quick Fuel DP Carb