This is a wall of text, so read what you choose.

I have looked at several different potential builds that I was planning on. These include:
SBC 350
SBC 327
SBC 400
BBC 454
Ls1 5.7 (Too expensive)
LQ4/Ls2 6.0 (Great bang for the buck, but small costs add up way to quick)

If someone can explain another platform otherwise, than by all means do.

Currently have:
'78 SBC 355ci
Unknown bottom end
Stock smogger heads
1.5 Summit Roller Rockers
Weiand Stealth intake
Edelbrock 750 carb
CAI
Flowtech Shorty headers
Y-pipe
Flowmaster full exhaust
Accel Large Cap HEI
Accel 8mm wires


I believe I have decided on using the 350ci 96-02 Vortec blocks for the cheapest power. Using the following parts I
should be able to get what I am looking for, while still watching a budget.

Vortec 350 SBC longblock
Stock 350 Crankshaft
Stock 5.7 Powdered Metal Connecting Rods
Speed Pro Z8KH423NCP30 Hypereutectic Flat-top Piston and Ring kit
Boring block .030" over, pressing pistons on rods, install cam bearings
24502586 - GM Performance LT4 Hot Cam Hydraulic Roller (Or another cam, was just basing this build off this cam)
Accel Large cap HEI
Accel 8mm wires
Flowtech Shorty Headers
Custom Y-pipe
Flowmaster full exhaust

[Top-end]
12499224 - GM LS6 beehive valve springs
787-16 - COMP Cams Steel Valve Spring Retainers
648-16 - COMP Cams Race Valve Locks
SEALED POWER Part # ST2015 Valve stem seals
Machining Screw in studs
Guide plates
Edelbrock 9630 Hardened Steel Pushrods
Edelbrock 7116 Performer RPM Vortec Intake Manifold
Valve cover 4bolt adapter
1.5:1 Roller rockers
Cloyes Gear 9-3100 timing chain
Autozone SBC gasket set
Melling hydraulic roller stock replacements (Will these work to swap flat-tappet to use the lt4 hot cam/XE -xxx)

 

Forget the gear drive. Zero benefits, wasted $'s.

Get a better carb.

The Vortec roller lifters will be fine with the Hot Cam.

Get better headers. Flowtechs are 1-1/2" primary tubes, you need at least 1-5/8" (1-3/4" would be better).

Get ARP rod bolts while you've got it apart.

 

For $170 more you could have a 383
http://www.summitracing.com/search/B...c&autoview=SKU

You have to buy new pistons and bore block so you buy 383 ones instead of 350 ones
If fitting a used crank ,may have to get it re-ground so that cost goes towards cost of new crank instead

Minimal extra labor cost to clearance block for stroker crank ; otherwise same rebuild costs

 

Would it be wise to get just forged pistons now, and then down the road have the money to get the forged crank and rods.

Another thought I was having is to have stock crank, stock rods (I've heard good for 500+hp), ARP bolts, and forged pistons. Would this combo be alright to use either a 100-200 shot?

Thanks a ton!

 

For what its worth if you get a vortec block from a 3/4 to 1 ton truck or suv the blocks are 4 bolt mains, cranks are factory forged units and so are the rods. most of the time the heads will be the .906 casting which some people frown on but the only difference between these and the .062s are the .906s have harden valve seats. but if your going to get head work done any way who cares. ive actually used the .906s and got 400hp to the crank and never seen where the heads made a difference with the harden valve seats?

 

I agree with Five7... don't waste your time with a gear drive. They are no more accurate or stronger than a roller chain, they are mechanically loud like you wouldn't believe, and expensive too. Get a good quality double roller chain setup and you'll be alot happier with it. Cloyes, Comp Cams, and Sealed Power all make good ones.

The LT4 hotcam is a good choice for Vortec heads - IIRC, that cam has a fair bit more duration on the exhaust lobe than the intake side. This is a good thing with Vortec heads, because the exhaust ports have a hard time 'keeping up' with the really good intake ports, so the extra duration helps out quite a bit.

Now... I didn't see anything in your list about having the heads modified for more valve lift, aside from the LS6 springs. Since the heads are going to be stripped and cleaned and at the machine shop anyway to have screw-in studs installed, why not spend the few extra bucks to have them modify the valve guides to handle more valve lift? Would be money well spent IMO.

For a carburetor, I'd suggest either a properly calibrated Qjet, or a Holley 3310. Both carbs would be excellent choices for an engine like what you are building. Both would also work just fine whether you build it as a 350ci or 383ci - very versatile carbs.

 

Alright thanks, I wasn't planning on using the gear drive, I have a cloyes on my motor atm. I have a feeling I will go with another cloyes timing chain aswell. I have read 2 different thread here that explained that with those specific lock, retainers, and seals that you do not need any machine work for use with the lt4 hot cam with either 1.5 or 1.6 rockers.

Also how much would I be looking at in machine work for just the valve guides cut down?

Why is there an advantage to use of a Holley or Q-jet compared to the 1406 Edelbrock. I have no preference, but it would be a lot cheaper to use the 1406 I already have instead of buying another carb. Also what intake would you use with a q-jet, since it is spread bore?

 

I didn't realize you already had the Edelbrock - if you wanna use it, thats fine, its up to you. I'm just not a fan, personally. I like Holleys for their user-friendliness and almost unlimitted aftermarket.

For a nice driver with good power, NOTHING beats a Quadrajet. Good fuel economy, great reliability, and when most at rated 795cfm (some 850cfm) there is LOTS of power potential there too. Its the best 4bbl ever built IMO. Would be my first choice for an engine like yours. Any 'spreadbore' intake will support a Qjet.

I can't tell you for sure how much it would cost to have the valve guides machined down, but since you are already having the heads cleaned and machined to have the studs and guideplates done, I can't imagine it would cost much more to have them do the valve guides at the same time. Just remember, you wanna have at least .060" minimum of clearance when the valve is at full lift with whatever cam you use, just to keep everything from colliding at any point. Its not a complicated job for any machine shop by any means. You'd have to ask the shop about costs though.

 

Same here man, I love the holleys, my dad has two of them, but they are for his '38 buick for a tunnel ram. *drool* But that is easily changed out in the summer when I get a huge cash flow. We also have a quadrajet in the garage that was used on an 80's dodge ram but will more than likely need to be rebuilt.

Alright, I might go with that, it is cheap insurance if something were to happen. Thanks a lot for the info.

I have read and read about longtubes and shorties. I spent about $120 getting the y-pipe made, and I i can't stand the job done. It is hanging two inches from a level floor. I bottom that out before anything else and it is just a pain. I know that longtubes don't have much ground clearance, but it can't be any worse than what I have now. I really don't want to take those shorties out and replace them with another set and y-pipe, I would either keep them the same shorties, or go with longtubes.

 

I'm no fan of vacuum secondary Holleys, either. Double pumper for performance, vacuum secondary for towing.

 

you are 100% correct here. use the right retainers and locks with the beehive springs and you will be safe with an LT4 hot cam. much more then that and you will have to cut the bosses. as far as carbs go everyone has their favs. me personally i would say go with a good vac sec holley.

 

No such thing...

 

I strongly urge you to have the guides machined down.

I done what I done because I didnt want to pull the heads. You have the perfect opportunity to get it done. If you dont, you will never be able to go to a larger cam. You wont even be able to go with the 1.6 rockers the LT4 hotcam was originally designed with.

It will still run just as good if you go the route I did, but any future upgrades will require you to pull the heads and have the work done to them. Save yourself the time and hassle and have them machined.

 

Alright 3rdgenmaro, I tweeked my build off of yours. I was wanting to go to 1.6 rockers eventually, and also if I did have them cut down, what kind of cam will I be looking at. Or should I call up crane or another company and get their input on what cam I want and am looking for.

 

Truthfully, I really like the lt4 hotcam. Works almost perfect with the vortecs. If you google around on some of the lt1 sites, there is a crane cam that several people like to run. It gives more topend, but less bottom. I cant think of what it is right now, though. But like I said, the hotcam makes some great torque and it will act alittle bigger with the 1.6s.

Whenever it comes time for me to rebuild my motor, Im cutting my guides.