383 build questions.
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Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 116
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From: Montrose, Co
Car: 85 z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
383 build questions.
i just got an 85 z28 for my birthday with a TPI 305 and a 700r4. my boss at work has a 4 bolt main 350 out of a truck sitting on the floor at the shop and i am going to try and buy it off of him with the intention of building a 383. my goal is to pump out around 350-400 ponies out of it for now with plans of a couple of turbos later on. ive been doing alot of research on good combos for this engine, but im a completely lost on head/cam combos. i know i want forged pistons and possibly a forged crank, and i want it to be FI. can i use the factory TPI setup? this is going to be in a car that is mostly a street car that sees the strip every once in a while. so far this is what i have kind of came up with for this build.
rotating assembly
http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/B130...oductId=749647
maybe 1.6 rockers and a roller valve train? and im completely lost on the heads..
rotating assembly
http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/B130...oductId=749647
maybe 1.6 rockers and a roller valve train? and im completely lost on the heads..
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,895
Likes: 429
From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
Re: 383 build questions.
repost the link, its not working right.
But basically a budget bottom end will hold 350-400 hp so you can build this on a the cheap. however, going a pair of turbos down the road may change things. If you plan on any decent power out of a turbo 383 then might as well upgrade to atleast forged pistons and H beam rods with good bolts. Can run cast crank but forged everything is always good insurance with a boosted motor.
STock TPI may be able to support 350-400hp on the right setup but its a restriction. AN aftermarket runner with heavily ported stock base is much better idea. A full ported aftermarket base and runner even better if you want TPI. Else, a miniram/stealth ram, proflo xt intake is even better still
Heads, around 190-200cc and a cam in the 224 deg on the intake range for TPI stuff. Should easily do 400hp. In fact, a decent head/224 type cam on TPI should be well over 400 crank hp. Its not all that difficult to get over 1.1-1.2 hp per cube with a hydraulic roller and good 190-200 cc heads.
But basically a budget bottom end will hold 350-400 hp so you can build this on a the cheap. however, going a pair of turbos down the road may change things. If you plan on any decent power out of a turbo 383 then might as well upgrade to atleast forged pistons and H beam rods with good bolts. Can run cast crank but forged everything is always good insurance with a boosted motor.
STock TPI may be able to support 350-400hp on the right setup but its a restriction. AN aftermarket runner with heavily ported stock base is much better idea. A full ported aftermarket base and runner even better if you want TPI. Else, a miniram/stealth ram, proflo xt intake is even better still

Heads, around 190-200cc and a cam in the 224 deg on the intake range for TPI stuff. Should easily do 400hp. In fact, a decent head/224 type cam on TPI should be well over 400 crank hp. Its not all that difficult to get over 1.1-1.2 hp per cube with a hydraulic roller and good 190-200 cc heads.
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Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Montrose, Co
Car: 85 z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Re: 383 build questions.
cool thanks for the info. the long block that i am trying to get is a mechanical hydraulic lifter block... will there be any problems converting to a roller set up? and are there and specific heads that you recommend?? i dont plan on shoving too much boost into this motor (maybe 10-15 lbs), so do you think that hyper pistons will be enough? oh ya heres that link
http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/B130...oductId=749647
http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/B130...oductId=749647
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 14
From: Not in Kansas anymore
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: 383 build questions.
That is why most start with a factory roller block
$130 for factory roller lifters ( good to 7K ) vs $300+ for the aftermarket retro fit ones you need
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Assuming that's true...
As stated, retrofit roller lifters.
i dont plan on shoving too much boost into this motor (maybe 10-15 lbs), so do you think that hyper pistons will be enough? oh ya heres that link
http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/B130...oductId=749647
http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/B130...oductId=749647
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,895
Likes: 429
From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
Re: 383 build questions.
I'd probably stick to a n/a build for now and then rebuild for the turbo later on. Building for a turbo now requires lower compression and wider ring gaps which will only give less than optimal performance on n/a motor setups.
Turbo motor will require stronger internals and different cam setup than a typical n/a setup. Its possible to build for both and run ok for awhile on motor alone, its just never optimal than designing your system around a specific goal.
If you do go all forged internals its gonna cost more but be well worth it down the road if you ever decide to spin it higher for more all motor performance, spray it, or boost it. Just need to keep the compression in mind with the goals you have set. Boost wants 9 to 1, all motor likes 10-11 to 1, same with nitrous.
Turbo motor will require stronger internals and different cam setup than a typical n/a setup. Its possible to build for both and run ok for awhile on motor alone, its just never optimal than designing your system around a specific goal.
If you do go all forged internals its gonna cost more but be well worth it down the road if you ever decide to spin it higher for more all motor performance, spray it, or boost it. Just need to keep the compression in mind with the goals you have set. Boost wants 9 to 1, all motor likes 10-11 to 1, same with nitrous.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 14
From: Not in Kansas anymore
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Montrose, Co
Car: 85 z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Re: 383 build questions.
ya i meant flat tappet. sorry couldn't think of it for the life of me. ok so im wanting to run this thing on pump gas so should i keep it around 10:1? or is 11:1 ok?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Montrose, Co
Car: 85 z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Re: 383 build questions.
How does this look?
Cam/lifters
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60103LK/
Heads
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12558060/
Rocker arms
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-141507/
Cam/lifters
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60103LK/
Heads
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12558060/
Rocker arms
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-141507/
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