Iroc zseven

look to build a mean 383 but wanted to get some ideas and info on it share all please

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

http://xtremecarzone.com.au/index.php?showtopic=386

500 Hp enough?
383 10:1 CR
TFS 195 heads
Comp XR288HR cam

Iroc zseven

yes i want to get that much hp i want to run with the holley stealth ram and want it to be a roller motor

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Here is what I would do to make or excede 500hp.

1. AFR 220 Eliminator heads(street) or Chad Speier Import head. See link. http://www.speierracingheads.com/SRH2.50BUDGET.htm
2. 11:1 compression ratio
3. Camshaft along the lines of a hydraulic roller 236/242 @ .050" and around .600" lift.
4. Hog out the Holley Stealthram to match the port opening of the AFR head. Continue the CSA to the plenum area. The heads use a Felpro 1206 intake gasket.
5. Shoot for a .035" to .040" quench.
6. 58mm throttle body minimum with supporting air intake system.
7. Minimum of Dyno Don short tube headers with supporting exhaust pipes and muffler.
8. Hey it's only money and it will be a mean 383.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Are those alum. heads? And can you run 91 octane with 10:1 compression? Would this make the same power with a ported plenum, as&m runners and Accel manifold?

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

Those are some pretty nice looking heads! pretty comparable to AFR's for $500 cheaper.

gbayfisher

thats a nice build! since we're spending others money, we can tone it down abit and add aout 10psi! good for 600!

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

"Those are some pretty nice looking heads! pretty comparable to AFR's for $500 cheaper"

The part I like is how he has reduced the effect of the "pushrod pinch" which is the bane of the SBC head. Even though it is a 220cc head I like the shape of the port which is very important and that relates to good airflow. The more the air has to speed up and slow down there is energy lost. So the less speeding up an slowing down there is the more energy is retained to fill the cylinder. Part of the ram air effect.

This is also the reason I picked the AFR 220 head for a 383. It is more about the shape of the port than the cc of the head. IMHO for a higher output head the airspeed in the smaller AFR heads such as the 195 is way high once you start getting into the 500hp range. It is much easier to make the power if the airspeed in the head is in the correct fps range along with the right amount of CFM.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I've seen 550+ from profiler 210's that Speier sells as well. i'd run those instead of the v2.50...the 2.50 would be for well over 550hp builds

AFR 220 is nice but with its 2.100" valve, thats a huge valve for a 4.030" bore. It may be slightly shrouded, hence small bore head version by Speier featuring 2.055 valve. If the air flow is of good velocity you can make big power with the smaller valves. 2.05-2.08 is plenty for a 383 size.

AFR 195 can make 500hp on a 383 but could start to be a restriction much over that. 210 will be ok for 550hp + on a 383. I would consider that too.

Iroc zseven

ok sounds good what would be a good tranny for all that power in a automatic

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

"ok sounds good what would be a good tranny for all that power in a automatic?"

What do you have now?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Mine lived with a built 700r4...spend good money on a reputable rebuild and it should last behind 500-550 hp. I sprayed mine to well over 600hp and it held the dozen passes i made and some strong 60 foot times. I was happy with it.

Iroc zseven

700r4im tryin not to lose that much horse power and tq threw it but just want something to hold up i read about some builds but not alot

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

"700r4im tryin not to lose that much horse power and tq"

I just wanted to confirm. Anyways the 3/4 clutches are the weakest link. So with the power you are talking about you will need to have your 700R4 upgraded with all the good guy parts. There are plenty of options available from kits to already built transmissions. The choice is yours as to what direction to take.

Iroc zseven

ok thanks will updated with pic and mods asap

Iroc zseven

do have a ? about the rods tho ive heard that you can use 6.0 rods in stead of the 5.7 rods would anyone know the pros and cons of this

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Lighter rotating assembly with the 6.0" rods. Also less thrust on the cylinder wall.

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

Longer rods increase dwell at the top of the cylinder which gives more time for the mixture to burn while the compression is at its highest.

If you run longer rods, you will give up the length elsewhere, so your pistons have to have a shorter compression height (wrist pin to top) which leaves less room for rings. Two solutions are to run the oil control ring right across the wrist pin bore, or put the top ring closer to the top of the piston and all the heat that's up there (bad if you plan to run NOS basically). Those are all very minor points tho. The biggest being keeping the top ring down low of you plan to push tons of power with this motor. I'm running 6" rods in my 383.

mmadden55

I like the the Trick Flows on my GTA.
383 10:1 CR
TFS 195 heads
Comp XR288HR cam

Plus your stealth ram and a tune to make it all run. Oh and under chasis headers and low restriction exhaust.

Iroc zseven

ok forged pistons for the heat have to look at the kind of pistons as far as compresion go's. looking at speed pro and mahle for piston combo is there any other pro to the rods being longer compared to the 5.7 and or cons i do know i have to get the right heads to fit and no nos just gas

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

http://www.iskycams.com/techtips.php#2005

1gary

Some history here.We started with 383's using the stock 400 rods.We then found the use of a 5.7 was alittle better which is common place now.The intermediate next step was to re-machine Buick rods to have 5.85 rods.Now to the 6" rods and even more than that.Smokey Yunick yrs ago stated you put in the longest dam rod you can find.Nothing to sell from him.I watched John Lingenfelter's builds go from 5.7 to 6"'s or more.I do think the current guru of sbc's David Vizard's build are long rod versions.Is it true the invasions of ring lands because of a long rod??.Yes it is.There are ring spacers for some of that.Would I suggest that for use on the street.Nope I don't think I would.Have we been in the loop for long rod use in race engines and found a edge??. Certainty we have.No hype.Win results with better ET's.Is there a difference in race parts and street driven vehicles??.For sure there is.Example of a low tension race ring vs one for the street and the ring gaps being very different.

So it all depends on application.This long rod debate is a on going for yrs and yes by major manufactures one against another.

I am giving you guys some hands on background.Here is one hint that I will lay on you.IF you have a long rod that dwells the opposite side of that is less space to have to fill for a air/fuel mixture for a given output because the piston travel isn't as long.There are two things you need to do to correct that.Want to guess what those are??.

One last thing.If you think there isn't a advantage of rod lengths,then you have to think using a stock 400 rod length with a piston build for the desired scr would be the same.Don't see that many people doing that do you??.hummm

Iroc zseven

it would be more street then track i want my engine to last not just a few 1000 miles then have to rebuild what i want is 60% race car 40 % street car i read the site and that is very good info i will look into having that in mind when i finnsh my build.i want to start at the weakest link of the 383 then work my way up my wish is to get a good hp tq power band up to 6000 rpm with a strong bottem end and good air flow so looking for all the info i can get i have did some home work on the intake that i want and want more horse power at the top end but dont know if its possible due to tpi setup but who knows

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Read the link I posted above.

No long tube setup ( TPI based ) pulls much over 5K ( but has awesome bottom end )
A shorter runner intake (HSR /MR /SP /LT1 ) will give more top end but lose some bottom end torque.
Pick your poison