So I got a 97 L31 vortec that is in the process of getting tore down. Originally it was stated to do a v8 swap into my 98 jimmy. But I got a sweet deal on a 86 iroc with no engine. Only seems right to put it in the iroc. So in your guys opinion am I better with the vortec heads or should I buy some 2.02/1.94s I can get em cheap as I have a junk yard connection. So wich is better? Its just going to be my weekend take a ridw in the country car. Also is there any unforseen problems with using the newer engine? Carb problems? I believe irocs were original tbi. Thank for any tips tricks thought or advice

 

Keep the roller type cam no matter what.

 

Yeah I figured the roller. Its in pretty good shape. Thinkin just a stock cam with 1.6 rockers. I don't need a wild street machine and bolted to a t-56 it will be fun to drive. I just haven't had any expierence with the vortec heads and how they compare to the 2.02s

 

Miles on engine? Check the heads for cracks.

 

You want the small port ones:

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/performance_parts/2011/

Page 145

 

Well the vortec miles are unknown. Blown head gaskets tho. Got it from the boneyard for 100 bucks. Figurin once I tear it down ill go .30 over for fresh walls. I like what I've heard about kieth black pistons so probably them.. flat top. Definetly have the heads gone thru make sure there tip top. 1.6 rockers. Re use the cam n lifters. I like the pp polished dual plane intake and probably a holley 600 carbhei distrib. Most likely a mallory. Sound like a good set up? I also dream of a t-56 that seems like a job to set up.

Oh and I was told the engine is out of a gmc truck. Not sure of the cast numbers tho.

 

I beleave they didn't put TBI in F Bodys till 89 90 so its a TPI EFI is king but carb will do for a cheap build a stick is fun if u know hot to drive 1 or not would not use it for drag with money on the line because u or any body can't shift faster than a auto and all it takes to loose a race is 3rd miss 4th and drop into 2nd say by by Monica lol

 

I want carb. No efi can duplicate the sound of those secondarys openin up on a 4 barrel. As far as stick I've never had a 6spd. Couple cars with 5s n I drive a 2012 frieghtliner with a 10speed everyday. I don't plan on racing much. Maybe a couple passes at the local strip for fun. So all the 86 irocs are set up for carb? I haven't even seen the car first hand. Only pictures. There's nothing in it. No dash no interior at all. Guy says all the wiring is there... Swears there's no bondo. Ill get to see it when I'm home for christmas.

 

Find out what engine the IROC had. More than likely, you'll need to drop the fuel tank and put a carb pump in it. I'm using the E3903 pump.

 

So I bought this camaro and well I'm having my wife handle the deal cuz I'm out of state. Any way all I've had to go by is what I'm told and a few pics. Turns out I didn't buy an 86 Iroc. Its an 88 iroc. Now I gotta research what I bought. Hopefully an 88 is still a decent roc

 

Not sure if it where me I would do the carb given all the advantages of EFI's and giving up the power curves that are a part of that just for the sound of secondaries opening.

 

Eh I just prefer a carb. Is there any huge difference between the 1986 and 1988? Like I said this car has no dash no drivetrain just nothin. I doubt it even has the ecm. I think it will be cool. If I can ever gwt home to see what I even bought...

 

keep the vortec heads, and get a vortec carb intake and nice holley carb and be happy. the vortecs have unmatched flow in low lift campared to other stock heads. or if you want you can get a vortec TPI base and make it a TPI.
or you can use the carb intake, and get a TB adapter and run a 350 TBI. theres threads on how to do that on the cheap.

you say the 86 has no engine, but does it have the engine wiring harness and computer or no?

 

I found out the 86 I agreed on was an 88. Im not able to see the car until I get home around christmas. I've been told there is some wiring there and other than that I don't know. Its dumb to buy a car with only seeing a couple pictures but I couldn't help myself. I been wanting to do a comple ground up build.

 

if the wiring and computer is gone, then itd be easier to set it up as a carbed engine.

 

So u guys think it'd be sporty? Carbed vortec only mods would be .30 over 1.6 rocker headers 600carb, t-56 with 3.70 gears?

 

a vortec 355 would be plenty with a good cam.

 

1.6 rocker will give you a boost of about .03 lift over 1.5 rockers. just keep that in mind when shopping for a cam. unless you plan an keeping the stock L31 cam in it.

 

Yeah I did that calculations. Vortec heads can handle .460 max. Stock cam 1.6 rockers makes .441 intake and .456 exhaust. Cheaper than a cam as well. Read an article in hot rod mag that said increasing valve size or lift doest yield any real power as opposed to the money invested

 

stock L31 cam specs:
Intake lift- .414"
Exhaust Lift- .428"
Intake duration @.050"- 191
Exhaust Duration @ .050" - 196
Lobe Centerline- 111

so account for .03 increase in lift on that and you get .444"/.458 lift. which is right at the max for the heads.

 

Two things you need to decide.Where you want to run the SCR.If you want to deck the block/cut the heads while doing the bore.The two standards for the deck is .010 down or 0.Much is hinged off the SCR when as a example choosing a cam.We ran this GM cam on a 355 which has a smooth idle and really good torque curve.Part number 14097395.

I bought for my 383 build I Con pistons and think they are a pretty good bang for you buck.Mine have a offset pin to limit cold forged slap.They aren't much more than the KB's.

 

I'm not sure what SCR is... I didn't think I'd need to shave the deck with flat tops wouldn't that make the compression too high? What is cold forged piston slap?

 

SCR = static compression ratio. if you run flat tops with a 64cc vortec head and a 0 deck with an appropriate .043" gasket you get 10.2:1 on your 355.

 

Cool thanks for figurin that. So 0 deck is stock...right?

 

stock deck is usually 9.025" tall. 0 deck is 9" exactly. meaning the piston at tdc is flush with the block surface.

stock piston at tdc is .025" below the surface of the deck on a stock deck engine (generally, it can vary from block to block)

 

Ok thanks for the tip on deck clearence. I've never really thought out an engine before. I rebuilt a bmw 2.5 straight 6, then I did a ground up 350 but was yound n naive knew nothing of part matching, then I put together a 302 for a mustang. Biggest waste of money yet. So I wanna do this good.

So do you think that the stock cam with 1.6 rockers is the best for the money? Since it is close to max for the heads? Or would it be better to get some beehives and go big on a cam?

Remember I want a spirited cruiser. Not an all out speed machine but quick enough to have fun

 

if you already have the cam, get the 1.6 rockers for the extra lift. if you dont have the cam, then just get a cam with a lil more lift and run 1.5 rockers.

 

Ok. Ill probably end up back here to learn more and hunt down parts. My wife picked up the car today. I don't get to see it till the 23rd when I get home. I drive truck long haul. Guess the guy found a bunch of parts in his garage and threw them inside the car.

 

that could either be good or bad...

 

My wife knows little of cars. The only part she identified was a dashboard... So that's good.

 

its either he was hording parts to replace all the broken parts. or he was hording parts he already swapped out, and you now have a pile of trash that he doesnt have to pay to haul away.....

 

Yeah hard to say. He had the car stripped to nothing with a huge dragster fiberglass hood. Wanted $1000 seen it on craigslist and well we settled on $400 without the hood. Personally I thought it looked dumb. The scoop was as high as the roof. Needs a ton of work. But when I look around most old z's are $3000 with a near death engine a trashed interior and need body work. I figure I did good gettin a stripped car. Hard parts done.

 

Well made it home for christmas and got to look over my Camaro for the first time. And wow! Body passed a magnet test. No bondo I can find. The floor pan needs a patch. Any advice? What gauge steel?

More parts than I expected. Seats dash console all pretty rough. Fuse panel was chopped off but the wires appear to all still be intact.

Also got started on the engine. And I am SMART. I tried using grade 2 bolts to attach the engine to my stand. Lol so now I need to try and remove the snapped off bolts. I just learned what an E Z out is. So now there just the one bolt I thouht I'd just drill out... I also grabbed some grade 8 bolts for my next attempt.

Did some tear down. The engine was 100 at a junk yard. Blown head gaskets. And yep the left bank was full of chocolate milk. Right side and cylinders look a little burnt. Like baked on oil. But anyways. That's my progress for the month

 

how big of a patch. if its small then a 16 gauge patch should be enough. if its large enough id suggest just getting a replacement floor pan and cutting the size patch you need from it. they run about $300 a side.

 

The hole is about 12x12 I'd say... I looked into the replacement floor bit it seems risky. I'm not expierenced in welding but I'm sure I want to do it myself. If I mess up a patch I can grind it out and try again. But as always any and all advice is pondered and appreciated.

Also on the bolts I snapped off in the engine block. Before I learned what an E Z out was I attempted to drill the bolt out and just re-tap the hole. Resulted in the hole being one size smaller and a thin layer of the bolt remaing in the hole. Any idea how I can fix this? Is there a tool that will remove the steel bolt without damaging the cast iron?

 

normally when drilling out a bolt, you start with a small pilot hole in the EXACT center of the bolt, then keep stepping it up until you either drill out the hole completely and retap it for a slightly larger bolt. or you manage to drill only the bolt and leave its threads were you can just pull them out.

 

Yeah I got it drilled and tapped for 5/16 the rest of the bolt are 3/8 so I got 1/16 to remove yet. I wont get a chance to work on it till I'm home again in like 3 weeks. I still feel foolish trying to mount a complete engine with grade 2 bolts. Im gonna try to get some pictures to post on here.

 

I'm lookin around at parts. And I've come across the old 355 vs 383 debate. But seems like everybody advice pertains to racing. I'm sure I have to go 30 over regardless. And I'm pretty sure I need to get it balanced. So for 30 over hyper flats and having it balanced I'm in about $450. Summit Racing has an eagle rotating assembly. Internally balanced 383 kit for $750. So in anybodys opinion... Is it worth the 300 bucks for a few extra cubes?

 

A 383 would be more "spirited" than a 355, all other things being equal.

With the 3.75" stroke, you will need to grind the pan rails on the block for rod clearance.