4 bolt main
-.460 lift Cam
-1.6 Roller tip rockers
-441 Casting Heads
-Edelbrock RPM Performer intake
-Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer Carburetor W/ Electric choke
-Mallory HEI Distributor
-Hooker Headers
-Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler
-New Radiator
-New Alternator
-700R4 Tranny with a shift kit
-B&M Megashifter

what else do you think i should or change? I bought the car like this. How much hp and torque do you think it has? What else should i do? Feels slow, but it's automatic

 

You are missing the more important info needed to make a educated "guess" like compression ration
and duration of cam/
how many miles on engine?

Dist/ 4 bolt / type of sticker on back window have no relationship to Hp

 

89monst3r, welcome aboard thirdgen.org.

441 heads have huge combustion chambers, so compression will be low unless pop-up pistons were used (which I seriously doubt).

".460 lift" doesn't tell us anything useful about the cam. Duration numbers would be more useful. Is the .460" lift with 1.5:1 rockers, or the 1.6:1's you say you have?

More details about the exhaust would be helpful. Hooker makes a couple of different headers for 3rd gens, including shorties and long tubes. If shorties, the Y-pipe is important (one type includes a nice Y-pipe, the other has a Y-pipe you buy separately, and it's pretty lame - and fabricated Y-pipes are often pretty poor). The 80-series muffler could be 2-1/2" or 3" inlet (3" preferred).

A rough guess is around 225-250 HP and 275-300 torque. In other words, about the same as some of the better 305's from the factory.

What I would change:
- Heads
- Intake manifold (depending upon the cam, HP goals, and primary intended usage)
- Carburetor
- Cam (depending upon what you really have now, and what your HP goals and primary intended usage are)
- Complete new exhaust with good mandrel-bent tubing

Things like the torque converter need to be matched to the engine combination.

 

hi, thanks for the welcome. I think his dad told me 9:5.1 compression or something like that...

I'm going to be honest, i don't know 350 v8's at all, im coming from an e36 m3, but they weren't the best drag cars and i wanted to start with something else. I'll try and find out any more info on the car that i can. I just want to build a drag car. My m3 was a quick car, but it's wasn't a 1/4 car. I know You guys can point me in the right direction as far as a newbie goes.

what posi should i get? everythings basically stock besides the swap. If it had cams, it's a very mild cam. Also, when I order 350 parts what do i need to know when ordering? Do all the same parts fit? Sorry, but i'm really new to this engine.

All i know is that 1,200 cams for my m3 would gain me 10 hp, I figure I can put 1200 into a 350 and hopefully do better.

headers are long tube into a y-pipe i believe

 

Need a plan (and budget)
Is it going to be a strip only car or streetable?
Gutting weight out of a car can be just a effective as adding Hp and a lot cheaper
Obviously your driveline will need upgrading if you do major Hp increases

Year of parts
Same basic 350 engine made 1969 -2000 ( some parts interchange all the way back to original 265 ci SBC in 1955)
Major change in '87 with revised seal on crankshaft and change in how engine was balanced.
Minor year to year differences

 

The problem most people dont realize with 350s is that yes they've been around since 1955, but although the basic design hasnt changed much, there's been a LOT more technology infused into it over 40 years of evolution. And it was a popular engine back in 60's just like it is now in the 2010's. So you've got guys with opinions and ideas about what makes a fast 350 who are stuck in 1975. And you've got guys who think just because it's a 350 it's the fastest thing since sliced bread.

It's hard to make a 350 fast unless you know exactly what you're doing. There's a million ways to get it wrong. Crappy heads, old school low lift, high duration, lazy ramp rate cams, low compression, crappy intakes, etc.

The only thing above the deck that I would keep on your block is the intake. You can get very streetable cams with much higher lift and very aggressive ramp rates today for very cheap.

If you want to do some mods for cheap and see what you can get out of it without spending much, I think you ough to find some 083 ( or 113) heads, a Comp xe268(or xe274, or even a 280H) cam, and a Holley 650 (or an edelbrock 650 if you prefer) and then leave the engine alone. That should be a respectable combo. Should make around 300ish hp if your pistons arent smogger dished garbage or ridiculous dome tops to compensate for the terrible heads. Then do a stall and rear end gears. That should make for a fun car without a huge investment. Just before you buy heads, find out whetehr you have domed, dished, or flat top pistons.

 

Okay, a little more information that offered earlier. Still need to know if you expect this to be driven on the street.

I've said this so much, people probably think I'm a part owner in SD Parts (trust me, I am not). This kit will solve 90% of your engine performance issues:
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...ter/sd8060raag

Of course, as mentioned, make sure you know what pistons you have before you order.

With one of the cams Infernal recommended (the less street driven, the more cam you get), a Holley 650 or 750 double pumper carb (get rid of that Edelbrock), you'll be in the 350-400 gross flywheel HP range with good exhaust.

If this won't be driven on the street, then the Hooker long tube headers are the way to go.

Posi - Auburn or Eaton in the stock rear end with 28-spline aftermarket axles, until you are going quick enough to need a roll cage.