I am going to swap out my 305 with the 350. I have been reading a lot of forms and I haven't found the answer I am looking for. Which 350 do I want? What did they come in? Rite now I have a 91 convertible with TBI. I don't want to do a whole buch of modifacations I want to keep it computer friendly and trustworthy and still get good mpg but I would like a few more Hp.

 

You'll be looking in '87-'95 c1500 full-size pickups. Get the complete long-block assembly with injectors, don't bother with the truck distributor, get the truck computer, and the first 2" of wires coming out of that computer. That'll get you all you need. Expect to pay around $200 for all of that, no more than $250 for a low-mileage cherry.

 

Can it be out of a 3/4 ton Suburban? Also can it be a Vortec? What about a TPI? I could just swap parts out. I found one out of a 3/4 Suburban that has a spun bearing. Their advertising it a Vortec and only want a $100 for it complete. I don't know if it's a TBI or TPI.

 

dont listen to the guy above, if you do your going to be spending out alot of $$$$$ like i am right now, your best bet for a 350 is to go with a 96-98 suburban or yukon motor, they are normally 4 bolt main blocks, have roller cams, vortec heads which flow amazing. you dont need the front acessorys because you need the F body setup off your current, unless your going FI you dont need the harness or computer but if you are then grab them. im putting a 96 3/4 suburbans 350 in mine, its a vortec, roller block, 4 bolt main, and in excellend condition.

 

Vortecs and TPI engines are far superior in many ways, but you specificalyl said you just wanted a few hp more and you cared more about not doing many modifications. TPI and Vortec engines require a lot of minor tweaks and parts purchases and upgrades here and there to make it work effectively in your situation.

The 87-95 L05 engines are practically bolt in and go in comparison. They still need to fueled properly, which means either computer tweaks or injector upgrades, maybe both, but it's much less involved than an L98 or L31 (Vortec) swap.

So would you rather do the most convenient and affordable swap? Or would you rather spend a bunch more money and work to swap in an L98 or L31 based engine? It's your call, there's merits to both sides of that equation, but you're the only one that knows your priorities and abilities.

1. 4 bolt mains are pretty overrated to begin with, and 1 pc RMS 4-bolt blocks are out there, but generally only in the heavier pickups. Most vanilla full size truck 1pc RMS 350s are two bolt mains, not 4-bolts. If you're making enough power/RPMs that a 2-bolt main is a liability, you've got enough invested in the engine that going to a splayed 4-bolt setup is a much better idea than finding a factory 4-bolt block.

2. Vortec fuel injection is garbage. You will have to retrofit a thirdgen fuel injection setup, which can be a pretty big complication depending on your ability level.

Most of what you said is spot on though. The only reason to listen to Atilla is the guy did specifically say he wanted the simplest swap possible.

 

Great advice but I am still wondering if I can use an engine out of a 3/4 ton suburban or do I have to find one out of a 1/2 ton pick up? I found one out of a 2500 Suburban and he said it was a vortec. Is this a plug and play engine? I really don't want to any mods to the car. I just want the added Hp of a 350.

 

Yes you can, I'm using a 3/4 ton truck engine but you'll need an intake for the vortec heads

 

Is it a roller motor? When I rebuild it do I reuse the lifters if there rollers? I'm buying that motor today but it doesn't come with the computer. Should I just buy a new one? I will have a chip burnt. I haven't had good luck with electrical parts from a junk yard. Why do I need 2 inches of the wires? Do I have to splice it in? Don't I need the ESM? Or is that the computer? I am new to this and I want to do it rite. I have read the thread about the swap several time and it looks straight forward. I really apreachate everyones input.

 

Yes all 96 up are roller blocks. And that depends. Are you wanting to go fuel injected or carb?

 

Make sure it's a 1996-1999 2500 Suburban. If it's a 1995 or earlier it's NOT a Vortec. Everyone likes to claim their stuff is Vortec, or Vette, or whatever, even if it's not.

 

He says the engine is a 92 and come to think of it it can't be a Vortec. Whats the differance? Should I let this one go just for that? It's only $100 bucks. Do you think it's a roller motor? When you rebuild the rollers do you reuse the lifters?

 

You can re use the lifters if they're in good shape and roll well. The only way to know if it's a roller or not is to pull a lifter.

 

so should i get the 92 350 out of a 3/4 suburban for $100 bucks or should i hold out for a vortec and take the chance of spending conciderbly more money. i don't want to build a hot rod i just want a few more ponys the 350 will have over the 305. i am not going to mod it except to get a chip burnt.

 

Google the specs for it then compair it too your current engine and see if it's what you want

 

The 92 engine is the one that will swap in with the least trouble in your car. The one Atilla recommended because it's basically the same as your engine, just a 350.

It has nearly identical cylinder heads and it has a flat tappet cam (You currently have a better roller cam, and the Vortecs will have roller cams, but the 1992 blocks most definitely will NOT have the roller cam) and will make about 200hp, 30 more than you have currently, mostly just because it's larger displacement.

If you want an engine tahts easy to swap, that's it.

If you want an engine that you want to dump a bunch of go fast parts onto, waiting for a Vortec 350 is a much better option.

 

Hey thanks thats exactly what I wanted to know. When I rebuild the 350 what should I do to it to get 300Hp and I still be computer friendly. I want to run the TBI and regular exhaust. Can I use my rollers and buy a roller cam? I would like a roller motor if at all reasonable money wise. If not flat tappit will do after all I have only had problems with one and I've done about 12.

 

Most I'll say is port the heads and intake so they can breath and flow better and upgrade the cam,and get some 1.6 rockers. I'm not sure what it takes to convert to a roller block

 

With the Vortec engine will my TBI intake go on it ok? Also what about a LT1 motor? I have time to look which one is better?

 

If you go vortec you have to order a vortec lower intake to adapt to your TPI setup, if you go lt1 you can only use the lt1 intake.

 

I wouldnt even bother with a stock tbi350,even if its plug and play.do it right the first time get a LT1.if you stick in a tbi350 youll be back on here looking for more and more hp.A LT1 with headers,tune,1.6rrs will get you to 300 fwhp easily.I love my vortec motor its just ashame how the injection system is like said above,Would have been great if GM would have made it LT1 system injectors.

 

Well I found a newer model Vortec 350. So I should have bought the Lt1 if I want to keep the TBI? Will the TBI bolt up to a Vortec? I want to keep the injection but the motor I found has an intake and carb with headers. I am on the fence. I do want the reliability of injection and hell I all ready have a hot rod. I am relying on this form for some advice. 1 does the TBI bolt up to and work on a newer model Vortec? Should I just wait and get a Lt1? All I want is to put a 350 in the car and get the little more Hp it has to offer. I want the ease of just bolting the injection on it and doing the other required stuff to go from a 305 to a 350. I still want good gas mileage. Should I **** can the injection and go old school and pull all the computer stuff?

 

I'm going carb with mine if thst says anything and when I'm done I'm going to have about 450 fhp

 

No the vortec motor would require a vortec intake,LT1 is not plug and play by any means.I actually skip the part about not worrying to much on hp,So yea just keep looking for a TBI350,87-95.For the record these are the casting for roller tappet tbi350 block.10243880, 14011148, 14088526, and 14093638

 

But besides the vortec intake it's pretty much plus and play, lt1 is not and requires a new custom harness. I think the both make around the same hp and torq ratings. I know the l31 is rated for 255 hp and 3 something torq but iv long since forgot what the lt1 makes.

 

Thanks for the input. I am buying what the guy claims is a Vortec motor today. It is a complete motor from flywheel to the alt and ps pump. It has march belt system and everything. It is carbed tho and I really want to keep my TBI. But it looks nice. It has braided stainless lines with aircraft fittings. It is basically a drop in motor. But I don't need all that stuff but it's a good deal I can sell the assories. I could keep it old school but I kind of want to keep the injection and almost 20 mpg in the city and the trouble free operation of fuel injection.

 

you want my honest input? you can get 20+ mpg if your carb is tuned right, and a carb is less likely to fail on you than FI because you dont have all the computers and sensors ect. its alot less troublesum in my eyes, only difference is if you drive it when its cold you have to let it warm up alittle before running, but you can even tune the carb and not worry about that. you can use the accessorys and motor mounts off your current engine, youll need a fuel pressure regulator to get the right fuel ammount and there is a guy selling one here for cheap. all youll have to do is wire up your gauges man. rip all the old wires besides your gauges and headlights and your set you go and that carb is going to breath alot better than the injection system will

 

Well I will say I just dropped a 98 vortec in my 91RS. I am using the GMPP TBI manifold. We still haven't fired it but other than the manifold this is the same externally as the original 305. The Vortec has been simple to build. Watch for the valve springs. The guides need to be worked and you need to be careful with valve lift. Pictures are hopefully coming once I get them off my phone.

 

What heads do you have? The 062s or the 906s? I'm still trying to decide what I new to do with my heads

 

You keep talking cr*p.
In one breath you say you want a simple swap to give a little more Hp ( which you were told above the easiest / cheapest route ; a truck TBI 350 );
then you start talking about engine swaps (LT1 ) that require major mods
LT1 heads / intake have nothing similar with a reg SBC engine ; let alone a TBI intake

VORTEC is GM's name for all it's truck engines since '85; it covers everything from 4 cyls to big block engine.

The VORTEC engine everyone talks about as desirable is the L31 350 engine from 96 -'00 trucks and vans.
Easily identified by having only 8 bolts holding the intake on.
If intake has 12 bolts ( 6 per side ) it is not the Vortec engine everyone is talking about; Period
The Vortec block will have # 10243880 cast on the block at rear behind pass side head and 880 cast on each side of the block

 

Why waste $$$ when you can get a new cam with the same lift as having to use 1.6 rockers on a smaller cam?
1.6's are only for guys who don't want to do a cam swap


There are even guys that recommend going back to a horse and cart because the streets are lined with broken down fuel injected cars

Unless you are spending all you time at WOT , EFI will pis* all over a carb across the board

 

Totally agree that a EFI is better than any street carb.It's just a facts that is debatable.

 

I also agree.Most people go carb because its less of a hassle.but you already have the tbi harness so there is no hassle with a tbi350

 

Stick with EFI if at all possible. Ignore the truck accessories, they very likely wont fit your car, they're just good for jacking up the price when it gets sold. You will need to move all your current accessories onto your new engine.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I bought an 99 Vortec 350. I believe it is a truck motor it has a 4 bolt main. Now it doesn't have roller rockers and I can't tell if it has roller lifters. It does have a carb and dist on it and I want to keep TPI. So quick question it is on a stand rite now which cam should I put in and which intake should I get? I've caught the bug I am going to soop this up a bit. Cam, Intake, TBI, and headers and I am looking for advice. Should I go with the Holley bolt on TBI? I am going to keep this computer friendly. There is a local guy that will burn a chip for me. So if anyone out there had a fresh Vortec 350 on a stand tell me what you would do before putting it in your car. Nothing to crazy but I wouldn't be above porting the heads. I want 300+Hp at the rear wheels with the check engine lite working.

 

If it's got a carb on it, how do you know that it's a 99 Vortec motor? Did you at least verify that it's got Vortec heads?

 

This guy seems abite lost,If its already carbed then i would leave carbed.IF your looking to keep it fuel injected then stay with TBI,Youll need a vortec carb intake,and a carb to tbi adapter.Vortec came with stamped rockers.So looking for roller rockers is a waste.Just get the casting numbers.

 

Pull a lifter, easiest way to tell but if it's a 99 it should have a roller cam

 

If it has the block casting # I mentioned above then it is the correct Vortec engine
The Vortec block will have # 10243880 cast on the block at rear behind pass side head

 

couldn't he also tell if he has an 880 block?

 

Same difference
The 880 cast on the side of the block is just the last 3 digits of the block casting # at rear
which is easier to read if the engine is siting on the floor

 

You don't need to pull the intake off to tell if it's a roller engine. You can just pull a valve cover off and shine a flashlight down on one of the lifters.

Here's another good idea. Get an engine with aluminum heads. The L98 in the C4 Corvette had them but these engines can be hard to find. Does anyone know if anyone sells these engine? New or rebuilt?

 

God so many questions where do I start.
1. Is there an adaptor to go from a 4 bbl intake to TBI?
2. If so what do I do about all the sensors and EGR? I want to keep this car computer friendly.
3. If I put headers on it is there a way arround the smog pump?
4. Do they make a belt system that gets rid of the smog pump?
5. Should I just try to get an intake and all the stuff off a truck and keep it at least looking stock?
6. I want to keep the computer so is there a way to elliminate the emmission stuff so I don't have a service engine soon lite?
7. On to the engine. What cam should I use?
8. Should I have the heads ported?
9. Can I reuse my lifters? The engine only has about 6k for miles.
10. If I do all this to the motor should I get 454 injectors?
I want the car to be fast but still computer controlled with no lites and hopefully still getting close to 20 miles to the gallon.
Thanks I realy relay on everyones input. The wealth on knowage on this sight in awsom and I take all the advice very seriously.
Greg
I will check for responces all day I have had very good luck with my questions.

 

yes theres is an adapter ebay has lots of them . i'd invest in a ebl flash from dynamic efi if your gonna keep it tbi . you can tune the motor an eliminate the ses lights with this computer . i think i payed 465 shipped . i'd also invest in a 454 tbi it has bigger butterflys 2" instead of 1.75" but you will need a way to tune it ( hence the ebl flash suggestion ) i would suggest using every spare minute to study up on this before spending money .

 

Also you can't use a truck intake, it won't fit so get an adapter. If you have emmission testing you'll need to keep the smog pump and other items and look for smog legal headers, cam all depends on what you do to the engine, if you get the heads worked on you can go with a fairly good cam and see some big numbers, it if you stay stock on the heads you'll only be able to go to I think it's .450 lift.

 

Well good news the motor is a 330Hp GM performance crate motor. I plan on buying an intake from GM performance that is smog ready but performance minded, smog equipted headers alonge with putting 1.6 roller rockers on it then it is done. The other stuff too. Oh should I put a TBI from a 454 on it? Or should I just put injectors from a 350 on my TBI body? There is also an option of a Holley. I leave the dession up to you guys. I value your input.

 

Going with carb intake you might as well say good bye to the egr valve.

 

You were proven so right.

Now he is asking for 300 RWHP so he has more work involved in getting there due to the drivetrain losses. Even with the 330 HP motor he found he is going to have to tell us what he is willing to do to get to his goal.
Carb, TPI, TBI etc, cam, heads and porting, compression etc.

 

Can anyone tell me why in the world the flat tappet cam 330hp 350 cost more than an L31? This just doesn't make sense.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-19210007/ for $2999

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12530283/ for $2258

 

Sorry it took me so long to answer. We have the 062 heads and our engine is the 880 block out of a 98 Tahoe. We have the GMPP aluminum Vortec TBI manifold. All other parts are from the original 305 except the injectors, computer, knock sennsor, and esc. I got the car with a 93 truck 350 which was OK but way choked by the factory manifolds and tiny exhaust. We are waiting on the EGR block off plate and 2 more fittings to tie in the power brakes and vac lines.... then maybe Thursday we will run the valves and hear her scream to life. Open Headers over a concrete floor in a metal barn, should be a recipe for ear damage!!! Can't wait to be saying HUH??? for a week!

 

If you're willing to do all this stuff to make a 350 work and only want a minimal increase in hp just do cam/heads/intake/valvetrain/tune on your 305, oh and a t56 will help with acceleration.