Just got my block back from the machine shop, it was a '95 350 TBI from a truck, I got the cylinders bored .030 over, got the holes tapped for the spiders so it's now roller ready, and got it cleaned/new bearings/freeze plugs and all that basic stuff

Parts list:

Scat 9000 series 383 rotating assembly (cast steel crank, forged rods and pistons, plasma ductile rings, 9.8:1 cr with 64cc heads)

OEM roller cam assembly (kit includes spider, dogbones, lifters, and bolts)

Not sure on pushrods, I need to measure for the size I need when I get the cam

Comp roller cam (.560/.560 lift w/1.5 rockers, 230/230 dur. @.050, 110 lsa)

Patriot performance vortec style heads (185cc 2.02 valve intake, 60cc (?) 1.60 valve exhaust, 64cc chambers)

Edelbrock RPM air-gap vortec style intake manifold

Holley 770cfm 4-bbl carb (elec. choke, vac. Secondary)

Hooker headers with pipes running back and turn out right in front of the rear wheels

3.42 posi rear

Rebuilt 700r4 with a reverse manual valve body and b&m ratchet shifter

I think that's all I have planned for now, engine/drivetrain wise anyways

Id appreciate anyone's input on any of these parts or combination of parts and this will turn into a build thread in about a month, this is going into a 91 RS with a 305 and it will be taken to the drag strip multiple times per year, but not in any really big events

 

drag strip? Not sure

Street? Should be fun.

 

It's gonna be about 80% street, 20% drag racing, but jut like some Friday night grudge matches against some buddies, nothing major

 

Have you bought all the parts yet or are you still just planning? That's the big question right there IMO. I'd do some changing around if you could.

 

I can still change the parts, what do you suggest?

 

I'm not super familiar with the Patriot Vortecs, but unless the exhaust ports are significantly better than stock vortecs, you're probably going to want a split pattern cam.

 

My selected parts list on my 383 build:


1995 L31 roller block

.030 over

5.7 rods Scat rods profiled for stroker with 7/16 ARP bolts

3.75 Howards track smart crank

Icon 18 dished pistons

decked 10 down

World S/R heads 67 cc heads with 170 intake runners.

Static compression ratio 9.2

Hyro roller cams being considered:

GM part number 14097395

288/308 duration @.050

196/206 with rocker ratio 1.5.1

431/451

Lobe centerline 109

OR

Erson cams

Part number E11980

Rpm range 2200-5200

Duration 272/280

Duration @.050 218/226

480/480 rocker ratio 1.5.1

lobe center 108

OR

Part number E119847

Rpm range 2500-5500

Duration 286/294

Duration @.050 226/234

548/540 with 1.5.1 rocker ratio

Lobe center 112

 

Jim- what would you suggest with the cam? This is just a recommended one from comp that I'll base my choice off of

Gary- I guess the cam you end up choosing will be decided by how you're going to use the engine, and you're parts aren't too different from mine, the only thing I would wanna change with yours would be the heads, I'd prefer a 64cc chamber to up the compression (my goal is around 10:1) and maybe a little bigger on the intake runner, the worst thing is building an engine with great potential but not letting it get to its full potential because of a restrictive intake and exhaust

 

How often do you plan on going to the strip? What kind of budget are we talking? I'd change quite a few things if it were me.. if you're wanting good numbers at the track, anyways. What are you doing about your converter?

 

I wanna say only 2 or 3 times per year, I not too worried about getting amazing times at th track, just respectable times, and I'm glad you brought that up, I have no clue what converter to buy, I'm clueless when it comes to those

 

Oh and budget, I'm only 18 so im living with my parents, I do have a full time job and about 2k saved up for the engine right now, so there isn't dealt a set budget, it'll be a "buy as I go" thing, but I don't want to spend crazy amounts of money

 

I would check with the Patriot guys to see what they say. They will probably have the best idea of what works best with their heads.

 

yeah I'd probably open up the exhaust side duration abit more. Lobes are good just need a longer exhaust side. 230/236 or so. Else the power will likely fall off abit at peak rpm instead of holding on abit to extend the shift point/rpm range. you can stick with the magnum lobes just have them put a larger exhaust version on.

 

Will do

 

I'll definitely do that, thanks guys

 

The flip side of that is keeping the intake runner on the small side to tailor a torque curve earlier at a lower rpm.More useful in normally used rpm's on the street so you do get a better return on your investment.

 

That's true, i guess it all depends on how youre going to be using your car, 170's will be good for the street, the reason i don't want to go with 200+ cc runners is because i want to keep the powerband lower, but still have a decent track time

 

It really doesnt take much power to move a car, and normal street driving in my opinion, under half throttle, it really doesnt matter what low end you have. You will have a higher stall rpm converter to make up for lack of low end and should have enough gearing. If manual, run more gear. You may feel a difference but how much power do you really need at lower rpms for street driving?

I realize this now after doing my turbo build... off boost the car is a turd, wont even spin first gear with a WOT mash. pretty crappy for 400" of motor and good heads/cam setup with high stall...but the power is PLENTY enough to move around...more so than most 4 cylinder daily drivers out there.

For a 383, 190-200 cc runners are a great size. The stroke will make plenty of low end and midrange to get you into trouble if you arent careful.

 

Ok, ill look for something with a little bigger intake, but I've never heard anything bad about these heads, and you can't beat the price either, i want to go with vortec parts to lay down a bunch of torque with the engine

 

You dont have to go bigger, those heads should do fine but just saying, dont make the mistake of going to small because of fear of low end. A 383 will have plenty

 

Actually I moved up to 180cc heads.The point I am making is a lower torque curve and building off the natural aspect of a stroker which is torque.That hp for all too long has been over sold to the public and is over rated for street vehicles.The other point you see in my build list is the purchase of a high quality Howards crank which will have no problem taking anything I throw at it.

 

Well the reason I went with the 383 was for torque, that also why Im going with vortec style parts, but I also want to make sure when I do take it to the track that I will have enough top end horse power to run decent times

 

I hear loud and clear.One concern is to build a torquer street engine that acts like a diesel.A real bear on the low end,but a rock after 5,000 rpm.Falls on it's face!!.I won't deny you can build a engine solely for torque,but lacks hp.It's a trade off of sorts.Where by building hp your going to move the torque curve up the rpm range.Much of the build plan I suggest should be surrounding the compression ratio.It dictates cam selection for one thing and how high of a rpm you need to maximize output.It also is a main factor in hp ratings.I am not a big fan of Vortex heads.I do think they are a crutch between stock and true aftermarket heads like those from RHS.The main reason why I am such a fan of RHS is their yrs of flow bench R & D and their handle of true CNC machine port work.Just to have a company say they do CNC porting without the R & D isn't enough.You I suggest want to build a engine that has all matched parts to tune for a given goal.I do think as a guideline to remember the statement of go big or go home doesn't apply to all cases.Going to big as a example for a cam in a street vehicle requires often a bigger stall convertor which crates heat and trannies don't like getting too hot.So I am saying these choices should also account for the effect it has on the rest of the car in the build plan.Big picture!!.

The guys I really respect are guys the build a car that idles like a kitten and runs like snot.

The parts business really hasn't changed all that much.There is a line where race cars are race cars and true dual purpose cars are true dual purpose cars.There still is a line not to be crossed over.What we really did was improve the top haft with a better understanding of how it works.

 

Hey guys, sorry about no updates but I've been real busy with the new job and I just bought a 2005 ram 1500 with the 5.7 hemi so I'm having fun with that, anyways, I have the complete rotating assembly just waiting for time to put it all together, I decided to go with the patriot freedoms series heads, aluminum, 2.08/1.60 valves, 190int/68exh runners and 64 cc chambers, I also think I wanna get a custom grind cam, I'm thinking .550/.565 lift, 232/240 dur @ .050, 110 LSA, what do you guys think?

 

Where does those heads leave you in SCR and take into account the DCR given that cam.Compression does dictate cam choices.

383's do like a long duration big lift on the exhaust side.

 

9.8:1, and I want to use a thin head gasket to get as close as I can to 10:1, so I won't need the cam to bleed off any compression

 

I know the lift is enough, maybe a little more duration? I wanna keep the powerband 2500-5500 rpm

 

The other part of a cam choice is the convertor and if it is a EFI,they like a 112 lobe center or better.They tune easier with that.Now I am very sure me saying that is going to draw some posts because there are guys out there that are running 108's and had to work on the tune.BUT,at 110 or 108 your already accounting for buying a different convertor and the changes in a tune.So it costs you more.

 

Well I'm using a carb, not fuel injection, and I am planning on buying a new converter but I have no clue what to look for

 

With aluminum heads you could go to 10.5 on pump gas.At that point it is a game changer in cam choices.But that would move the power band up.

 

I like many on this board would have ideas about which convertor to get.The best source for info on that is the cam manufacture or who is grinding your cam.You can take that advise as the bible.And because of that being the god's honest truth,I'm going to step back from a suggestion about that.

Dodge Hemi huh.I know a guy that has one,is always complaining about gas mileage around town.How you doing on the gas mileage??.

 

BTW-sorry about the typing speed.Between the arthritis and diabetics,it left me with what amounts to two claws to type with.

 

Ehhh I try not to notice the mpg, I get like 15mpg combined, but I didn't buy a hemi for gas mileage haha and not a problem

 

I know I could go up a little more with compression using the aluminum heads, but I think 10:1 should work well. Next purchase will be the cam and the OEM roller setup