Day 1, got a decent amount done for working 4-5 hours.

Left all the Ecu harness in-tact, I am trying my best to not hack job this. Will stuff in the fender well for future use.




little bastard.










engine donor Car 91 Firebird







new quadrajet, not sure if i will use for now



gonna re-grease the u-joint bearings, and clean it up.

 

YOu can actually remove it from the vehicle intact if you don't plan on using it for the moment... remove the inner fender well on the pass side, and you'll see where it goes into the cabin. Go inside the car there, and you'll find a U-shaped plastic retainer clip sort of thing that holds in the big "connector" looking part. (it's not really a connector...) Slide that piece off, and the pass-thru just comes out. The whole harness will extract from the car, intact and undamaged, in one piece, ready to box up and prep for the day that the unexpected happens... like happened to me, when my phone rang and a job in California was offered to me, and I was able to restore my car to California emissions specs in spite of having a roller-cam 400 with a Holley 800 carb on it at that moment.

 

Thats what ran through my head in case something like that were to happen to me.

 

 

ok, bought a 2 ton engine hoist today, it won't reach the engine unless i set it to 1/2 a ton, is that safe to lift up the engine/t-5 transmission together? Or do I need to take the nose off the car and set it to 1 ton...


any thoughts?

 

i would think it would be fine, i would remove the lower crank pulley for some more room for it to tilt and come out

 

Alright, i'll get my puller and rip it off.

 

weekend 2, me and my roomate drove back and got the old bastard out. hah we look like total rednecks right now.

 

 

look at all that natural ice lol your are rednecks

 

natural light sorry*

 

I definitely felt like one

 

spent today getting sunburned in 100 degree weather, and got the 355 in.

 

Guys, I need help.

When I try to crank the engine, the starter acts really slow and cuts out like the battery is dead, but I tested the battery and its at 12.8 volts.

I have the alternator connections straight, and the starter connections are straight

I have the battery neg grounded to the frame, does the engine block need to be grounded to the frame as well, would that be why the starter is having trouble? The pos cable to starter gets hott and smokes a little, and there is no short any where on the cable.


Thanks

 

That's at least "a" problem right there; whether it's "the" problem, hard to say until you fix it.

The neg batt cable should go to the BLOCK. Then yes, there should be a ground connection between the engine and the chassis. But if the batt is connected to the frame instead of the BLOCK, then the entire MASSIVE starter current is forced to flow through the chassis/engine ground connection, which is invariably too small. The idea is, make the path for the starter current to flow through, as direct as possible; from batt + to starter, starter to block, block to - batt. Otherwise there will be too much resistance in the path.

 

Have it running now. Anyone know if 3:73 differential gears would compliment a T-5 well?