Im rebuilding a ls1 but when im started to spin the crank seems to stop spinning at a certain point do the valves hit the piston on these engines ??????????? Didnt take of the heads .. I really dont think that do but need mor opinnions,,

 

More details please.Bearings??. Why are you replacing just the crank??.

 

Clearance issues depend on what you're changing. Anything could be making contact somewhere.

If you changed the crankshaft, how did you get the pistons/rods out without pulling the heads? If you think the valves are hitting the pistons, take out the spark plugs, back off or remove all the rockers and see if the crank will turn freely.

 

Is this a new or re-manufactured crankshaft.

 

im replacing the ceank because a heard a knock coming from the bottom oof the engine ... the engine was running so i pulled it out and sure enough the rod bearins where all messed up...

 

the rods came off the crank just fine without taking the heads off and yes i took off all the spark plugs but i didnt take the rockers off im goin to try that thanks ....!!!

 

this is a reman crank from oriely auto parts

 

I am trying to warn you about the re-man crank shaft. You need to be sure and use a tube brush, I use a 22 rifle cleaning kit. Clean all the oil passages out real well. The one I got was filthy with grinding material. If I would have started the motor without doing this my new rebuild would have been toast.

 

Good one i cleaned it out with spray and and air hope thats enough...

 

There's a good chance your new crank won't last a week. How bad were the rod bearings? The rods probably need to be resized or replaced as they may now be out of round from overheating due to a loss of oil.

New rod bearings on a reman crank may be preventing the crank from rotating if there isn't enough bearing clearance. Don't assume anything for clearances.

 

Finally someone said it. Kewl Alky. He also didn't say if the crank is 10/10 or what bearings he has.Or if he got the rod caps on the same rods and those caps facing the right direction.If the rod bearing got hot,pretty good chance the mains where effected.Then not rife cleaning the crank or the block is a recipe for damage.

 

thanks guys i think im going to take it apart and check everything again how do i know if the rods have been wor out of shape.

 

i didnt remove the rods but what you mean buy facing the right direction....????

 

thanks got it to rotate after puting the timing set on thanks for all the advice appriciate it !!!!!!!!!

 

So the cam was installed and still holding valves open without a timing chain installed to turn the cam. No wonder the pistons were hitting the valves.

I still don't think the engine will last long but keep us informed.

 

lol .... well see worse case i pull it out and do it again ill keep you in touch next thing is wiring it to my iroc !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Alky is trying to help you.Ya know.

Here is a question for you.Where do you suppose the filings from the bad rod bearings went??.

I asked this before and you didn't answer me.What size is the "re-man" crank you bought??. Then what size bearings did you buy??.

When you said you where trying to turn over without the timing chain on,it is very clear you don't have any experience.If you are not willing to take the advise given,there is no point in giving anymore advise.

Worst case??. A rod lets go putting a hole in the block.

 

the reman crank and bearings are 10 over and all the fillings fro m the bad rod bearing went in to the oil pick up and the oil i suppose ... And your right very little experience but hey gotta start some where ...

 

Without a complete teardown, you'll never get all the bearing contamination out of the engine.

 

And with the motor being out already it would make more sense to finish tearing it down and do a thorough cleaning and have the rods checked. I have not had good luck with rods after a spun bearing. Always had to have them resized. They were out of round.
Did you stop to think about the bearing particles that would be up and in the rings, including the oil ring. What about around the valves and springs?
This is just food for thought.
AlkylIROC is right. With all the work and money you are investing I would think it would be wise to take the precaution and do a complete teardown.
This reminds me of the old adage 'There is never enough money or time to do it right the first time but plenty to do it right the second.'

 

My signature says it all.

 

A proper cleaning after a bearing failure also means removing the cam bearings to clean the galleries behind them. There's lots of places that bearing material can become trapped and will cause a future failure.

 

Compete tear-down,hot tanked,and all the rods are measured and the mains the same.Then rife brush clean all the passages.Measure the bores and correct as needed.Toss the oil pump and pick-up and replace with new.There isn't any credible reason to believe atleast the rods won't need to be re-size.Some might need to be replaced.

Summary is tear it down to the bare block and take it and the rods to a machine shop.

 

With further thought,the rod bolts should be replaced too and after the machine work to re-size the rods,well Scat has a hell-a-fide deal on a better rod with ARP bolts in a 5.7 size.I think they where around $250.That might be the better way to go with this.