im looking at a 383 from westcoast engines stage 2 400hp 435 torque it a good match for a tpi setup ? i got a 89 iroc 305 700r4 tranny dont want to gut out my car to install it all factory wiring & parts intact?

 

80% of the "crate" engines sold can't compare to a engine you build yourself given you getting selective parts.And any 383 should be able to achieve those numbers.LOL-"stage two" or not.

 

Well, that depends.

Depends on what you're willing to do to get the TPI to match the 383.

From the factory, the TPI setup is a horrible match for any 383. The 305 version will have injectors that are much too small. The runners limit flow, and limit power above 4500 RPMs (those are 2 different things, by the way).

There are some things you can do, though. The Holley/Weiand Stealth Ram intake will allow the 383 to breathe up through the powerband. I won't claim any sort of guru status when it comes to the finer points of TPI, such as whether the MAF can support the flow required for a 383 - conventional wisdom is to convert to a later SD TPI system to eliminate the MAF.

Count on upgrading exhaust (from the exhaust ports to the rear bumper), and to spend some money on ECM tuning.

 

just went to the shop installing my subframe connectors (local guy can eat off his shop floor has all pre 60s cars working on i was impressed with ) he has a ls1 383 on th stand ready to go in i think i might go that route the good thing he will let me do as little or as much as i want he says a new wiring harness is about 600-650 and 50 for ecm . m question is while im going that far should i go to ls2 i was told (lol) how much money u got how fast u want to go

 

LS1 or LS2 is much more involved, but arguably a better final product.

If this is a bare LS1 longblock, there is a lot that needs to be done to get it in a 3rd gen. The f-body oil pan is the one typically used (truck and Vette pans don't work well), although one member used the GM "muscle car" pan and that seemed to work.

The interface with the transmission is different - personally, I don't like the TH700 behind LS, since you're missing a bellhousing bolt in an already somewhat weak configuration, and you have to use a spacer or special torque converter to match the crank flange. The 4L60E is a simple solution to both problems, and is stronger in all ways than the TH700.

A bare longblock is going to need accessories and intake. Plus the sensors. Exhaust isn't cheap. Engine and transmission mounts are different (although 3rd gen shifter, torque arm, and driveshaft all work).

The stroked LS1 vs. LS2 - well, I wouldn't call it a slam dunk in either direction. The LS2 is a 4" bore, which yields a smaller displacement stock than the 383, but you have more flexibility with upgrades. And, somewhat depends on the particulars of this stroked LS1.

I'm not trying to talk you out of it, I just want to make sure you know what's involved (from someone who has done it).

 

thank for your input. its a turn key motor . On the tranny will i new a new mount or whole crossmember?

 

The LS1 4L60E mount is located in a different place front-to-back than the TH700. So, different crossmember. The Hawks piece is a good fit (allows decent Y-pipe routing), relatively inexpensive, and effective.