oh and if need be i can use 4 fans with a slight overlap , 2 12 inch fans one on top to one side the other to the other side would have 7 inches overlap in the center and then 2 on the other side in the opposite offset so on the left there would be 7 inches where there's 2 fans same on the right , so basicly 4 fans but not quit 4x the cfm , the increased pressure in that section may make up for it though , but id prefer multiple small fans if they are really 2200 cfm http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...-cfm/2-200-cfm so there's bigger fans of the same cfm at higher amp draw which is odd and at similar price http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-19127/overview/

 

just got my 1/4 hst check , wooh a whole $60 i can get trans fluid a filter and gasket and a oil filter and maybey pan gasket , lucky me , this sucks , i was getting 40 a month last year

 

finaly started the engine , shakes at first , then purs like an angry kitten , gonna put it in the truck and drive that to my moms , then im putting in the car video of it starting soon to come

 

im doing the upper control arms first and for the drivers side turbo i may have to move the master cylinder towards the fender

 

updates on the car coming around January , ill be doing the suspension mods (as to accommodate the turbo then the second one later (luckily i switched to hydro-boost (could have used the vac boost) because the 4th gen master is smaller and less in the way) when i do chop the strut towers out i then have isues like wheel clearance
what ill do is remove all the springs then lower it with the engine and trans in place till theres only a fingers thickness between the lowest point and the ground whith the ride hight still even , then ill modify the stops so it wont go lower and check clearance between the tire and engine parts ill leave at least 3/4 inch between parts for movement and after some testing in the truck ill know the clearance needed between turbo and enging parts also between the turbo and plastic such as the master cylinder resivor , ill be trying ways to allow closer clearance , 1/2 inch would be best but that wont even be an issue with moving the master cylinder system

 

well this thing with the page telling me to go back and refresh is pissing me off ive lost so much stuff ive typed and now i cant word it the same but basicly i broke my transmission front tab that bolts to the engine the top passenger side all cause i listened to my dad , and then we did it my way after , and he said thats the way he wanted to do it , no because a: he told me not to tilt the engine (was trying to ame the faces at the same angle) and b:you dont need a raches to finger tighten if anything a wrench , at least then you feel the torque being aplyed

 

well im still interested man.. keep up the posting... maybe next time use cntrl+(the letter) V.. (copy) before you click the post button.. i do it even before i post anything i care about of FB or wherever

 

ya ive been doing that sometimes but i forgot , did i mention im putting it in the truck first , so nothing special except i got a junkyard engine to run and will be able to put an engine in an engine bay , definitly gonna mod the trans am front suspension may do the brake relocate to get more room but then im still woried about how close the wheels will get to the turbos , and as for the engine height if scoops wont do (dont wanna go too high or wide , the ones on 2nd or 1st gens ar the ones i have and the ones i like , if i have to ill increase the center v in the hood to add clearance and worse comes to worse ill raise the tops of the fenders an lenghten them to sit at stock clearance with the pillars

 

ill make up some picture if i can (ms paint , i cant use adobe ps

 

here it is , you may not notice at first glance with my mad ms paint skill but basicly i copyed the top section (so cut one off of one or fab a spacer at the same angles) , then lenghtend it with an extra middle of the top so it will take at least 2 mayby 4 extra fenders for someone who cant fab up the angles

 

oh and i forgot to mention the hood would neen to be lengthened and the headlight pods raised the realy hard part will be the front nose cone as its plastic , i figure cut at a straight section then angle it and cut a strip from another one and glue it in then body fill in the gap , then cross fingers before paint , either way , determination and the hatred of ugly oversized scoops or cowel induction , only cowel induction i like is so modest theres almost ne benifit , an inch maybee 2 high , at one inch any width up to 3/4 the hood width but id never do it and it wouldn't help so scoops and hood mods ar my only bet , im doing scoops either way

 

the more i work on getting this truck up to par , the more i realize cramming all of the mechanical and electrical into my car may be a harder task than i realised , the wheels will be such a big limiter , i dont want them small so placement of the fuse center and the abs module will be an isue as i want it low too , then theres making sure the turbos dont hit , last time i had the other engine in here even with the manifold turbo flange choped for clearance i still had isues , after taking the springs out (i think it was to check for adding upper control arms) the jack fell over (did i mention im working in soft sand that wont support much weight) and the head i was mocking up with the exhaust poped off , so ill need to add some form of limiter for sure that should help with the tires not hitting the turbos , i figure at rock bottom as long as its not touching it should be fine , heat is not an isue for that as it wont ride there often , i cant put the turbos above the hood ir too high (dont want to) because the air cleaner needs to hold air pressure so it can aid in boosting the engine and take strain off the turbo , i dont want the scoops to be too high and they cant be too wide i may find an ultra wide mono scoop that i like by time i do this but i doubt it

 

hey Attila the fun i hope you dont think i was being rude or anything , its just usualy when someone says that there build covers everything it usually ends in the other guy not keeping his thread , mines on my whole build and the twin turbos , the internal computers and custom gauge cluster will be part of what makes it special and full functioning ill mock up a pic of what it will look like next

 

wouldnt believe how hard it is to find a photo of a clean non carbon fiber mesh , stock dash cluster with a clear veiw of the right side gauges

 

one thing that most cars dont have is the twin gauges , like a clock how 2 hands come from one axis and can be seperatly controlled (if you take the gears out) and to not have it look like a clock with the hands overlapping im going to have the main needle be shorter and the secondary needle be behind the face with 2 90* bends to go through a slot and sit just above the main needle , the secondary will be less noticeable but my pyro meter wont be able to be modified (as far as i know) basicly the pin that suports the needle will have to be extended or an extender added on the main gauge and the secondary it will need to be replaced with a hollow larger pin and based on what i found in the stock ones seals need to be done to hold the float oil

 

so ya i cant draw , so im just going to draw the one picture of the way it works

 

here is what it kind of looks like

 

so ya got it running in the truck , the turbo spins at idle with the wastegate open , and at 1000 rpm you can hear it working , this is going to be great

 

hey i just wanted to chime in and ask what kind of turbos you are thinking of running the stock gm8's because in my opinion a twin 6.5 is kind of a waste your going for fuel mileage not power anyway. you can yell at me for saying that that is fine i drive one everyday got 290,000miles i think you would be better of running a single holeset hx35 from a cummins the turbo is designed better so it would build less heat at lets say 12 psi than the gm which help eliminate the need for intercooler and that will be all the turbo you will need with better spool up 6.5 max out around 300hp. there are some other tings to know
try to use a 97-98 water pump "from the dual thermostat motors has more flow. 6.5 make more heat than other diesels because they are indirect injected, keep an eye on harmonic balance "why the cranks fail" and if its elcotronic ds4 get the grey pmd and mount it in front of radiator.
if you run veg oil i have hear it can cause more wear on your injection pump due to not enough lube additives. but it should get good mileage as long as you keep cruse rpms around 1800 peak torque rpm = best fuel mileage on diesel keep gearing 2.73-3.42max

 

i dont tend to yell at people on the internet , not unless they yell first. i intend to do a twin flash ecm mod (saw one guy with it) and also one everything is spooled up and highway driving (2000 km to my moms mostly highway) the twins will alow more air flow and more exhaust flow , picture an air compressor , or any kind of pump , bigger inlet (to a point) more pressure inside , bigger outlet (again to a point) more flow and often at lower pressure (without a tank) and more flow with the same fuel gives better mpg , same as those who run higher rpm limits without over increasing the fuel get better mpg , they have to drive at higher rpm`s to get it , so more flow at the same rpm will get more mpg its like opening the exhaust up , less work for the engine , and the pre turbo bottle neck (pre manifold) is 3.5 inches or dual 2.45 inch pipes , and i may be wrong as i havent botherd looking , but i doubt there is a single turbo with a 3.5 exhaust inlet and outlet pre waste gate , the gm8 only has 2 inch opening and with the waste gate open its equal to a 2.25 inch pipe , if anything ill be trying to port the turbos , and dont get me started on porting the engine , theres many ways to increase mpg on just the engine itself , timing can be adjusted to give me better mpg at lower than 1800 rpm , torque i believe is the factor , if i use stock gm8`s than i can have 1.15 inch pipes from the engine to 2.3 inch colectors sloping to the turbo flange size , id love to get a reverse spin version for the drivers side , as for the intake , the whole reason behind modifying it is so a: the turbos can seperatly run , and b:so i can run 2 filters , one for diesel and the other for veg , ill be running on veg more often so that will be at the back as to be easy to unscrew and change , ill also use one in the back for the pre filter , ill have to do half the feed the beast on that one and maybe full on the other two and the injection pump (large fittings) i like the ease of flow and the heaters that these have , it will work good with cold wvo , i also like how small they are and the easy change ability , and the water in fuel sensors dont hurt , i could have the system set so it wont start if both front and rear filters sence water i may even have it shut down if they do and its running , or just have it switch to diesel.

 

as for the pmd , i plan to use 2 and a switch to change between and have them someware cool , a on the firewall (also liiks good) or be in the bumper then id add large heatsinks as space is not such an isue , i may just use black , but if the gray are better i can paint them or just use the bumper spot , i already have the pump labeled ho and the dual thermostat , ive even considered using a second thermostat crossover in the rear , veg is pure lube , and raw or store veg has water , in using waste veg and im dewatering , also some dont filter as well as they should , the filters on the vehicle should only be a precaution , as for the harmonic , me and my dad might be replacing it soon , posibly just with a scrap yard one , but maybe with a after market one , one thing i hope goes away when i tighten the tq converter is i bent the flywheel taking it out , not too bad , looks bad but the starter still lines up fine , within the next few days i plan to pick up everything required to at least move the truck , ill be doing large amounts of testing with the truck , and the data i colect will aid in me the swap , and efeiecency , i may even try adding the weight diference to the truck and then take numbers , the diference should work the other way too , and that will tell me how much i can expect to save while driving the same , the goal is to be able to pick up enough veg to make it to my moms and back with equipment i can carry in my car , at least to beable to go there and back on one tank (the whole trunk section up to the top deck basicly making it level , its 4000 km total , on a 142 liter tank thats 3.55 liters per 100km or 67 mpg btw my car started out at 4 mpg , so this is a needed swap

 

well just chose your turbo or turbos carefully they will make or brake you and they are more complicated than a camshaft and you want two. my stock gm 8 dosent seem to get full spool till 1800+ so even if you put two on yes you will have more overall potential airflow but will it be usable in the rpms you will be running? that is whats important . yes you could probably spool them both up at 26-2800 rpms but thats not fuel efficent. dont worry about having a 4" exahust port idea the 6.5 would never need that. if you put a cummins in there or a powerstroke than sure but you wouldn't be going for efficiency then. look at turbo compressor maps and you will learn what you need or at least wheres a good starting point highly recommended; a gm turbo is not a holeset turbo and thats not a garret turbo! there worse than picking cams

 

on your 6.5 if you can , take 3 mpg measurements , all the same trip , and the same style , best to do highway as thats the numbers im talking anyway , easy way to do it is have a measured amount of fuel in your jery can , or a way of measuring , drain from drain hose into containers ttill empty , ad measured amount , do test at operating temp , drive a on 2 gallons till it stalls , or drive 100km then measure remainder , depends on your measuring system , the mpg one is easiest but the l/100km is safe against not being able to start again (best done on a highway regularly traveld and with booster cables) , basicly one test as it stands , then one with the vacuum unpluged (even better if you could drop the cross over but if you havn`t recently then dont unless you know the bolts are rust free , also if you just dont want to crawl under then dont) , then one with the upper plenum off the truck (make sure its a clean dirt free road) sensors still pluged in just taken off the plenum that way the ecm still gets the same data , if all goes well ill post a secondary quick guid , sort of a hindsight thing where you can just replicate my results without the hasle , as now matter how much i want to be better than others and unique , a fleet or pack of thes things roaming around would be awsome , also custome parts ill have multipul made , that way i have replacements and others can buy the parts from me and get other parts from parts stores , ill try to make it a cut here drill here (i might make templates too) and bang here then bolt in kind of kit oh , also flare this line flare that line , basicly i wanna make the whole thing as easy as a 4l80e swap

 

ive never done cams , also i already have 2 gm8 turbos , also a striped down gm5 , another reason is i wont have the cross over pipe , as i cant have a crossover and a down pipe at the same time , also i said 3.5 , and with the right manifolds or headers 3.5 is exactly the max flow you could get , the ports are 1.5 by 1 inches and the same or bigger on the intake , also the manifold is the right size anyway of corse i keep forgeting the exhaust , so theres still like a 2.5 inch bottle neck , so unless the crossover was droped we cant expect a diference between upper on and upper off as the exhaust will be a limiting factor , there has to be a high flow turbo that spools at the low rpm,s i figure if its directly half the pressure than looking at between 2400 and 3000 starting spool so basicly what you said but i figure theres probily pressure that the turbo isnt using , i may even be able to set the efeciency band higher , but even if i do , are those numbers worth decreased lifespan of all parts and a: running higher speeds , or b running lower gears , ps the gv overdrive and the 6l80e mod would be to get good city mpg as my daily driving will be mostly city , smaller turbos would only just alow me to have twins and not get any better mpg , maybe it may spool quicker , im not so woried about that , as long as it has enough pep to merg than im fine , oh , try blowing up a baloon with a straw , then with a piece of heater host , then with the straw inbetween the balloon and the heater hose , pressure may make the boost but flow gets it spining , there may be high pressure in the manifold but the flow limmit will cause low pressure in the turbo now try with 2 balloons and 2 straws to one heater hose , they blow up at the same rate as one right , the turbo is the straw , a larger turbo is the heater hose , 2 will spool faster than 1 bigger 1 , id get the same mpg as a bigger more expensive turbo , but have close low heat loss piping (rear or front mount) and not have a big heavy turbo on 1 side threatening the structure and interfering with the hood or the wheels , id get the same (simular) mpg and more wheel clearance , and quicker spool times for when im running power

 

peak torque on a 6.2 is 1900 , but its 1700 in a 6.5 so if that has to do with the turbo than it can be lowered by increasing boost imo of corse that doesnt help me , just putting info out there , but as i see it 1800 is generalised or from another engine , but is looks like if its torque than it should be moovable but id prefer not to

 

deleted

 

wow youtube vids are huge on here or is that just what i see , anyway ill upload and link the videos here

 

heres 3 pics of the carnage from bringing the engine down , tire went flat and we had no way to fill it , also we have spares and these need to be replaced (swaped) anyway so damage wasnt much concern , just the rim , also where poor as **** , so a tow truck trip (esp to save a $80 tire thats probily dead anyway and cant be revived) was out of the question

 

more tire , my dad , and his dirty hand , i forget the significance of these 2 but its right after jb welding the timing cover

 

jb weld left over , and severly carted sand paper , the jb job , and the inside and gear

 

engine running , wiring layed out for repairs , and more wiring repairs , sorry so dark

 

more wiring , btw i had to extend the wires 20 inches using my old wiring , still will need to be extended

 

i have a profile pic now

 

here are some pre diesel videos as you can guess i hate gasoline

 

i figure its best to work with what you have

 

i think ill try to spool the turbo with the crossover down (gatta drop it to do the tq converter and shield) and then with a piece of tin and my flanges to seal it then try again , if it spools at 1700 then ill be fine , cant upload new videos till i get a 3gp converter

 

ok , im going to try a crown vic front end as its everything i need just its a ford wheel pattern , its extreamly rebuildable , and being a fleet vehicle parts come cheap , or so i hear, so just lovely , now my only options are new rims , cant use stock ones from anything , i have to get 2 different patterns , but anything thats already tried and true , , it will take some more fab work , might as well widen the frame at the front and use the rad from the truck , because the best way to do any swap is to use the stock rad from the engine

 

hey just to let everyone know im not mad at anyone incase you guys thought i was , aslo your input is greatly appreciated , so post as much as you want , i get bord when no one post , also scared that noones watching/reading it or they dont care enough to post , did i scare off bobby goff or freak out tealrs or offend atilla the fun

 

hey tealrs you got me really worried abot that turbo rpm thing , now i have to do more research and testing before i can get the truck back together

 

well that was dissapointing, tealrs im mad at you , you were right , just kidding , its better i find out now and not when its all together , im going to test it again later today and let it warm up first , im hoping thats it , i couldnt hear it wind up , my dad said he could , but that was above 1800 anyway , any boost at 1800 would be fine , i need a gauge , i might try putting my finger in the thread hole for the other sensor to feel if theres pressure or vacuum , is there such a thing as too much boost for the fuel , like can you run a diesel too lean and loose mpg because of it , also what psi is optimal for efficiency as im assuming theres a curve there too , looking like they built these as best they could , as far as efficiency goes , as for power , you may get more with two turbos , but im doubting it , so it looks like ecm mods and weight loss are about it

 

so 38 mpg even on the fiberglass one

 

got to drive the truck around storage a bit , cant do a burn out but that could be cause the master cylinder is blown also i dont know how to do a burn out , it just slides the brakes are new and dont catch enough to hold back the power what little there is , still love it , cause of the diesel sound and the veg smell

 

i might even try a full frame set up

 

ok so now that im going single turbo , i have to go big somewhere else , im seriously considering air bags , its a crown vic frame anyway so it shouldn't be too hard , ill probably oil it when ever i change my oil , either with the old stuff or the new stuff , but that should get the rubber to be nice and healthy and ill slowly save money in my glove-box for new ones when the shock sections go bad

 

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/u...2121587&page=1
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/428462_1

 

Still working on it ,moved to a new house in October and have a lot of cars to move , the truck the engines in is eating fuel like mad so i have to get that fixed before i can take base numbers , right now its 70 liters per 100km so ya its **** ,gonna pressure check the lines and fix any leaks then replace the injection pump might build a pop tester and check the injectors too

 

This is a very interesting thread. I guess a lot of muscle and sports car guys aren't fans of diesel power, and that's why no one wants to comment on anything.

I am a fan of diesel power, however.

 

Thought the bitch was empty , still has like half or at least a quarter tank , don't buy the cheapest part from rockauto when its important , my electric lift pump is weak and loses prime too often , did i mention that I'm doing a full frame from a crown Victoria

 

Well , i f there still around when I get the money and for that price than these are the rims and tires that ill be getting , just have to go to America , http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse....3971&pID=50218 http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse....%2Es&pID=39105