finally started to build my engine for my camaro, it is as follows

seasoned 1969 chevelle ss 350 block .030 over, hypo flat top pistons

forged 327 crank, seasoned, machined

summit tri-metal rod, main and cam bearings and summit plasmamolly coated rings

summit high flow oil pump, oil cooler, and new core plugs all around (no they are not called freeze plugs)

pete jackson gear drive (the noisy one of course)

hooker super competition headers

arp head studs and bolt kit, felpro gaskets

#461 fuelie heads 1.94" in, 1.60"ex, race ported (previously on a wheel standing 65 nova wagon)

factory spec 30-30 duntov mechanical flat tappet cam, lifters, valve springs, retainers and locks with hardened pushrods, roller rockers and stud girdles

mallory high flow electric fuel pump and regulator

holley strip dominator high rise, air gap intake with holley 650 double pump carb (modified for race use on a 396bbc)

gm hei distributor with super hei kit and mallory wires

i am going to use the stock t5 trans with a performance clutch, however, i have purchased a hardened steel countershaft bearing support that should prevent the countershaft and mainshaft from seperating under load

the engine should move the car nicely with my posi, 4.11, 9 bolt rear

any thoughts?

 

Sure...

It'd "move" a whole lot better with more stroke.

It'd fit the car (assuming it's the 92 RS) a whole lot better with some other heads.

Not sure what the gear drive is all about; but then I'm a "pure function" kind of guy, not alot of use for monkey-spank like ... noise.

Other than that, looks pretty much like a standard unremarkable parts list from 40 years ago. I built one for myself a lot like that, just about that long ago. Should run OK for its day. Don't expect to be "competitive" with somebody that put the same coin into "modern" parts.

Don't run a stock flywheel, and DO run a scatter shield, if you happen to like those things down right past your ankles; the flywheel is only like 3" from your right heel.

 

That T5 should really like the 7,000 RPM that the cam is designed for.

 

We need pictures!

 

yea i kinda figure the trans is going to explode some day, but when it does im swaping in a t56 6 speed, money permitting

i will take the pictures today sometime, some of the parts are still in transit, bought online

 

You can kiss your T5 goodbye LOL. I hope you're not using solid lifters in that thing...

 

i would run better heads if i could afford, i already have these ones and they where free, the cam was only 250 brand new, and the block and crank where already in my garage, so far i have paid a total of 400 bucks on this project, wish i had more money but the army dosent pay reservists very much.

 

yes its a solid lift cam, just like the old duntov

 

The reason why there really isn't a fix for T5's is the case flexes under stress.

 

With the steel support I bet it will last longer than most people here think.

 

maybe but he is right, the case is a lightweight aluminum that is pretty thin, the support will help prevent the countershaft from walking down, but does nothing to prevent the mainshaft from walking up or to the side, the only fix for that is the $350 billet case from g-force, id rather save for a t56 personally, with my 4.11 gears i want the extra overdrive

 

T56 is always stronger, just save and enjoy the T5 for now. Although with 4.11 you will be shifting a lot.

 

i like shifting, its fun, never get tired of it, i have only owned two automatics

 

I understand, I only owned one automatic then rest all manual. I just know with my 3.73 I spend the bulk of my time in 5th.

 

so do i, makes the 3.1l i have now seem peppy lol

 

I personally would've stayed away from solid lifters. Oil with Zinc in it is getting harder and harder to come by, and it's nice to not have to adjust your valves very often, if at all. But hey, it's your project, and it sounds like you already have your mind made up.

 

Are you using 327 pistons with that crank or 350 pistons? There is a pin height difference between those. You are going to want the pistons to match the crank.

 

It should be a decent combo. Better heads with a 750 carb would be a nice upgrade but if youre on a budget you can still make decent power. Like sofa said, you shouldn't expect to be too competetive, but you'll have a pretty solid build if done the right way. Also a retrofit roller cam setup will give you more choices for cams and better results, without the need for special oils.

 

You can't use those heads if you like having accessories on your engine; those minor creature comforts like .... an alternator.

I'd urge you to step back and reconsider what you're thinking, before you go too far down a dead-end road on a left turn into the weeds.

 

enter alternator bracket from billet specialties, these heads are free and i dont have any money for other heads

 

I ran my stock 85 non-AC v-belt system on my IROC for many years with 461 heads. It works just fine as long as you fab up a bracket from the back of the alternator down to the front header bolt.

 

update, the deal on the intake and distributor combo fell through, Craigslist flakes

the 327 crank is a no go, another Craigslist flake

my current 350 crank is in need of machine work as the journal has a grove in it, i am thinking its going to be in my best interest to jump for a 400 crank instead, just make it a 383 stroker, thousands of hotroders cant be wrong

just got the bearing support for my trans and the hid headlight conversion in the mail, will post pictures as soon as i remember my photobucket username

 

http://s996.photobucket.com/user/psu...=recent&page=1

visit my photobucket album to view the progress of my build, not the engine alone but everything else as well, not in chronological order