I am having problems trying to start the 350 I have put in the car I crank on it with the starter and then get a backfire up through the carb and out the headers any ideas what is wrong double and triple checked to make sure timing is on tdc too. I am puzzled HELLP!!!

 

Sounds like timing is 180 out or the firing order is off.

 

i am almost pos that the timing is right though

 

Doubt it

 

pull the #1 spark plug out. stick your finger in there and have somebody bump the starter over, (ignition disconnected). when you feel compression, stop. pull the cap and note where the rotor is pointing. make needed adjustments.

 

ok I will try that i is to fing cold outside today to mess with it even in the garage -14 is just to cold

 

im double checking to make sure I have spark down to the plug also I am positive I do though because I can hear the rotor sparking in the cap when I turn it over

 

You might try changing the firing order of the wires. Put 1 where 6 is and the 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. I don't think your getting it.

 

thats the way i have em wired up on the cap

 

either your valves are stuck open, your timing chain is off or you have no idea how to find tdc of number 1.

 

i stumped myself a few years ago. i couldnt get a motor to start for the life of me. somehow i pulled a brain fart and put the wires on backwards! i had the right firing order, but for some dumb, unknown reason i put them on backwards on the cap. lol.
its probably something simple.
if you put a new timing chain or cam in the motor, a lot of guys make the mistake of trying to dead-stick the distributer with the timing marks at 6 & 12 o'clock. that puts the timing 180 out, or on #6.

 

heres a good pic/diagram/vid of what i'm talking about with the chain. its about 1/2 way down on the page/link.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=606074

yea, over-tightened valves would do it too.

 

so tdc is actually not the chain marks facing each other dot to dot on the close side??? I think I might have found it if that is the case

 

bc I was always told that tdc was the two dots face to face or closest to closest when cyl 1 is on tdc

 

nvm I got the cam right I know it i just looked it up again to double check

its gotta be either with my dizzy or the valve lash perhaps

 

Ok explain the valve lash ajustment its been a long time I should be able to still spin the pushrod but the rocker should not be ab lol e to wiggle at all right?

 

#1 is indeed at TDC when the crank gear dot is at 12 o'clock.
but,...remember, were dealing with a 4 stroke engine.

when the cam gear dot is at 12 o'clock, #1 cylinder is ready to fire.

if you've got your distributer ready to fire the #1 sparkplug when the dots are at 6 & 12 o'clock, your 180 out. in fact cylinder #6 is ready to fire. thats why it was suggested to move your #1 wire to #6, and then the rest of the wires on the cap.

the easiest thing to do is pull the number 1 spark plug, and stick your finger in there. when you feel compression, your at TDC. wont take but a minute or two. its really pretty simple.

 

were talking hydraulic cam/lifters, correct?

heres how i like to do it;

Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload
In order to adjust the preload the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or “Heel” of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and
there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the preload on.
2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust
valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder’s intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to
open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)
3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to
return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do
so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)
4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning
of the pushrod, you are at “Zero Lash”. Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into
position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed,
stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that
exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in
steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again


http://www.cranecams.com/pdf-tech-tips/hydro-lift.pdf

 

Ok that I think is where I was messed up bc I had the valves tighted down so much the pushrods couldnt rotate I forgot that you have to allow them to spin a little to be able to allow oil to flow throught I think right? Lol I took an engines class in high school but that was a while ago and im rusty on this stuff

 

take your time. double check everything. follow the directions and you'll have that motor running in no time.

nothing wrong with being a little rusty. its like riding a bike!

 

Thanks for the pationts I needed the help ill chsrge tge batt and try her again this afternoon

 

no problem. you'll get it.

heres some inspiration for ya, lol. this was a 350 i put together for a buddy and fired it up on the stand/hoist. he was happy to hear it fire up. nothing like hearing all your hard work fire up for the first time.

click on pic/vid;

 

Just had the valve lash set wrong its working good now