wondering if a gm performance 4 qt oil pan will be enough has ports for external cooler i plan to hook up. or if 6 qt fit with stock k-member. (fyi has a one piece rear main seal)
wouldn't mind putting stroker crank in but oil pans seem limited

Also does a external hei distributor (stock) fit or what are you guys using i have a crane fireball cdi i would like to keep in use. dont mind eliminating computer to get good distributor planing on carb anyway
is the hei in cap a better distributor and does it fit?

thanks in advance

 

An oil pan from a 91-93 454SS should fit with no problems.

For simplicity, a large cap HEI distributor will fit with no problems however a small cap distributor with an externally mounted coil is just as good. The OEM small cap distributor is computer controlled. There is no mechanical or vacuum advance inside it.

 

No BBC wet-sump pan has ports for anything. That's LSx-only. You can put a sandwich adapter between the block and the filter, or you can do a filter relocation kit, which makes the oil cooler connections easy. The 454SS pan is NO different from a 2WD 1-ton pan, it can be hammered to fit but will still hang way too far below the crossmember. The GMPP 4-quart is a great way to go, choose a filter that holds a 5th quart. You can get a 4.25" stroke in the GMPP oilpan. That'll let you get up to 515 C.I. from a 454, at a 4.390" absolute maximum bore, if your block passes sonic testing for cylinder wall thickness. No power-adders if you bore that far, unless you do block filler in the water jackets, right up to the bottoms of the water pump holes. A 4.50" stroke is possible in production blocks with 6.385" rods and custom pistons, but not with the GMPP pan, and that's neither a high-rpm nor long-life combo.

 

hey guys thanks for the replies
I meant to say block has oil cooler ports, dont need them in oil pan.
good to know hei in cap fits, i wanted something with mech advance to eliminate computer but still be able to change cap/rotor every now and then.

atilla are you sure gmpp 4qt fits the specs say 4.00 stroke? i would only go with a stroker crank because the engine builder sayed i should have a forged crank and i wanted a callies crank. Going for 550hp (show and go) but then he said stock cast crank would be fine (gen v and iv are stronger than older cast (ie. gen 4) so if i stay 4.00 thinking scat 4340 i dont know how good they are? this is not a dedicated race car but i might drive it like one up to 65 mph!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...5360/overview/

 

I've yet to see any stock production BBC pan that won't take the 4.25" stroke, though some do require a little dimpling with a hammer. Still, they will clear, and they will seal. You're not hitting it that much. There's just no need. You should already have a steel crank, and even cast cranks are fine for 550 HP and 6000 RPM. Whether or not to stroke depends on heads, cam, and traction. Without traction, you won't be driving like a racecar up to 65 MPH, you'll be blazing both rear tires instead. Much slower. If you're running 269-cc Merlins, or 265-cc AFRs, then don't waste money on the stroke. With the Merlins choose pistons for 9.5:1, with the AFRs choose pistons for 10:1. For any other heads, the stroke will help. You'll be far happier with the driveability if you let good heads do their job, rather than too much cam with lame heads. Otherwise there's no point to the BBC.

 

All gen V engines came with steel cranks and 4 bolt mains.

 

True, but suppose the next person to read this wants to copy it but has an older short-block assembly with a cast crank?

 

my crankshaft numbers are 10114-188 says cast, iron or steel? like to keep to save money but if it needs upgrade then thats what i will have to do
14097044 is the steel forged numbers (dont have)
yes 4bolt mains
these parts below are what i am planning subject to change. by engine builder or others imput
might go roller cam i dont want any flat lobes but might change springs run the zinc additive
if i go stroker crank pt# numbers will change
i am hoping ls6 intake wont hold me back from 550hp

crankshaft Scat 4340 forged crank #445410L 4.00” Howards 44544000-1 $615
rods Scat 4340 I beam #26135P 6.125” press fit
pistons 10:1 comp
harmonic balancer Pioneer #872006 8” external balance
heads Brodix #2061009 max lift .600 294cc Alt. Afr #2100 .700 max lift
pushrods comp cams welded tips 3/8”
roller rockers comp cams #17021-16 1.7
camshaft Edelbrock performer rpm #7162 .560/.573 240/246 lunati voodoo 10110703lk
timming chain Manley Timing Chain Set# 73142
carburator edelbrock 800cfm #1813 or 750 cfm
Intake manifold 1972 ls6
distributor hei in cap thanks to guys on thirdgen
headers patriot h8012 1-3/4 primarys

waterpump electric
oilpan Chevy performance 4 qt #12495360
fuel pump electric on car


looking forward to tire smoke but it is more fun when you can plant it!

 

You're already considering a Howards crank. Look into Howards billet I-beam rods as well.

If you're planning on a stroker then the tiny 1-3/4" primary tube headers will be a restriction. They're barely enough for a hopped up 454 since they're already a big header for a SBC. 1-7/8" or 2" minimum for a big cube engine.

 

This recipe is basically the exact opposite of what I just told you. You want a high-revving, no-torque big block? You can get the exact same power, cheaper, easier, and better everything else ( weight, driveability, MPG, emissions, looks, fit ) from an LQ9 swap. For these heads do a 4.25" stroke, and either a Howards 120246-10, for a driveable HR, or better yet go SR with something like a 121213-08. That one will justify a 496.

 

Don't mind the nay sayer, "no -torque big block" ha ha ha thats funny,
I like to find a no torque big block, you can't kill the torque in those engines, ha ha ha thats funny.

I have a 454 .060 over with rpm cam and the '088 325cc rectangle heads
with rpm intake and 750 carb and 1 3/4" headers------ya right no torque
thats funny, I boil the hide off the back tires at 45 mph in 3rd gear with
no down shifting. in street trim run low 12's on unroyal tires
turning 1.8x 60ft times with 4.10 gears. ya tell me its has no torque
and my race weight is 4200 lbs so do the math.

This isn't even dialed in, timing set and locked out at 36 degrees and compression is 10.5 to 1 carb is just a 750 vacuum secondary 3310-2
that has stock jetting with tall yellow secondary spring. running 87 octane fuel.

little tuning I'm sure I could crack off some high 11's in street trim, got the mph for it at 115-116 mph. but I'm not to **** about getting it there
was built to have fun, nice radical idle- thumps pretty good with
2 1/2" exhaust ( full boar chambered welded mufflers)with 2 1/4" tail pipes out the rear.

ya a bbc with small tubed headers and tiny 2 1/2" exhaust with 2.25" tail pipes. stock 088 heads, cheap cam, cheap intake and no money carb
and a stock bottom end 2 bolt main 454 with KB ($240.00) pistons.

cheap hp can't do that with any sbc.....................NO torque
bbc..................lol some people.................

 

Bore makes HP. Stroke makes torque.

A BBC 396 only has a 3.76" stroke. The 402 BBC was exactly the same except the factory gave it a 0.030" overbore to make it a 402. Those engines could be considered low torque engines because of the short stroke.

The 427 got a large bore and a 3.75 stroke. Make more HP but technically the same amount of torque if everything else was the same.

The 454 kept the same bore as the 427 but increased the stroke to 4" making a torque monster in comparison to the older engines.

By todays standards, the 454 is nothing more than a pickup truck work engine. Bores and strokes have greatly increased with aftermarket blocks. My 588 has a 4.625" bore and 4.375" stroke and is still in a short deck aftermarket block. Going to an aftermarket tall deck block, a 632 is 4.600 bore and 4.750" stroke. With the amount of torque that long stroke engine can produce, anything can get moving quickly even if it was a low compression pump gas engine.

For the average person working with a 454 production block, a 4.250" stroke crank is a very common and easy swap. A longer rod and appropriate piston for the combination helps the rod ratio and keeps the size/weight of the piston down. My 588 pistons and I-beam rods weigh less than the pistons and H-beam rods I was using in a 540.