Well I finally have some money lol. Ok I'm going in my car again this time I will leave this set up. Right now I own a good production block (80-85) for a nice 383. If I go 383 this is my plan
AFR 210s
HSR 58mm TB 42# injectors ported to match (used if I can find some)
Forged rotating assembly 10.5 to 1 CR
Comp cam 292xfi comp full 1.6 RR
1 3/4 LT headers
Fast EZ EFI 1.0 or 2.0

406 shp
AFR 210s
HSR with 42# injectors 58 mm TB
10.8 to 1 CR
Comp cam 292xfi comp full RR
1 3/4 LT headers
Fast ez efi management 1.0 or 2.0

I have a 2006 LQ4
F body harness pcm
LS3 heads with a spring and trunion upgrade
Forged stroker kit
LS3 intake and some OEM rails that work with 42# injectors and a Cable driven TB.
Not sure on cam
Hawks 1 3/4 LTH

Now im trying to stay close to 6k and make 430 rwhp I also will go with a T56 on all set ups with my 9 bolt with all new parts and up grades 3.70 gears.

Which one will get me the power I want for 6K. What ever I dont use I will sale I have buyers for everything and I will make profit on all. 6k is just for engine not tranny.

I'd go LS if those were my options just for reliability mpg and high rpm capability... any of these combos should make 430hp quite easily

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow heads, 4.10 gears, full UMI setup, track times coming soon!

This combo is close to what I'm doing in the '57. You'll probably overachieve your HP goal even with a fairly mild cam.

This is the route I would recommend over the other two. But, you could save about $2500 on the build if you don't stroke it, and can still easily obtain the HP goal. A set of flat top pistons and ARP rod bolts would be all the shortblock needs (well, oil pump upgrade, too). Or, put some of that money toward forged rods & pistons.

Instead of an LS3 intake, consider an L76 if you can find one. The only significant difference is the MAP sensor mounting method (LS3 uses a screw to secure it, L76 snaps in place). I got my intake with fuel rail and injectors from eBay, it was advertised as a L76, but when investigating the MAP sensor mounting, I finally figured out it was actually an LS3 intake. The L76 uses the same MAP sensor as the LQ4 and LS1. The LS3 MAP sensor calibration is different from L76/LQ4/LS1, so using one that is calibrated the same as your PCM will make tuning easier. I just "glued" the LQ4 MAP sensor to the intake with silicone, as using the screw mount was going to involve figuring out some way to seal the sensor to the opening, and coming up with some sort of custom hold down bracket - the silicone accomplished both the sealing and the securing.

I'd also recommend doing something I didn't do - call Bullet Cams, tell them what you're building, what your HP goal is, and get the cam they recommend. The shop that did my machine work called both Bullet and Erson for cam recommendations, and for reasons I still don't understand to this day, I told him to get the Erson cam (price was the same for either one). It'll probably run fine, but the Bullet probably would have been better.

Ok 430 rwhp is just minimum hp area more is always ok.
Also looking at a E85 tune. How much power u think I can make with that with a 402? As I go over numbers the LS swap would be cheaper than the 406 SHP swap.

The biggest advantage with E85 is you can up the compression and not have to pay for 105 octane race gas. Higher SCR means more cam means more power. So, whatever the increase is from going from about 11:1 to 12.5:1.

Go big cube 421 if your going to spend the money on an shp block. But even a 406 with an shp block, by the time you buy the block and machine it and just buy the heads your almost at $4000. Im doing one now and its already close to 10 grand for the long block. Would use cheap rotating assembly in that block. I cant speak for an LS motor. But with an shp youd make a ton of power big cubes and have the longevity of the dart block. Dart rates it at 600hp but its underated by about 500hp. Alot of guys making 1000+ on those blocks. I just like the old school efi or carb look. If your concerned about mpg btw I wouldnt be building a big hp car. You can make big hp and tq with a big cube na motor all day long. Take care

Not looking for MPG. I don't want a 427 (I wouldn't do 421) because I will have to pay for that in more upgrades like more expensive clutch, trans, drive shaft, bigger AFR 220s thats 600 more etc. I can get a 406 shipped for 3k and AFR 210s for 1600. I can sale the LQ4 for 1k and my other stuff for 1k so with only 2600 in long block parts (no gaskets, no cam Etc.

383 will be 1300 with rotating assembly and 1600 for heads. And can make about 1500 off lq4 and my built 700r4.

421 is almost the same cost as a 406. Theres no way youll get an Shp 406 for 3 grand. The block itself is 1600, then add quality machining and a balance job on rotating assembly is about $1200. Afr 220s are the exact same cost as 210s. If your gonna put Scat or Eagle stuff in an SHP block Id figure about 4-4500. Dont be fooled by low prices, you get what you pay for when it comes to machining and assembly. If your gonna do it , do it once. I dont knock anyones choice of parts, but in a dart block Id spend the cash and buy american. Just trying to help you out , dont take it the wrong way. You might want to consider an S60 for a rear if your on a budget, that 9 bolt wont get hit as hard behind an automatic. With a T56 youll grenade it quick. Take care.

I never take stuff the wrong way. I will put it 2gether myself. And Dart is just a few miles away. I will keep the 9 bolt because I won't track it often and it will be mostly roll racing. I will do a 9 inch later. Ppl got some good numbers out of 9 bolts and some didn't. I wont run slicks and if I do sbc I wont do no more that 3k to 3200 dumps. I'm not racing to enter competitions but just to be able to hang at the track. I said 430ish because that will get me in the mid 11s. If I go 10.99 they will kick me off and I dont want the politics that come with running that fast.

With a 406, if you go either 210 or 220 afrs you will easily surpass 430rwhp. Getting a mid 11 will be easy on drag radials. 10.99s and faster will require some sticky tires and hard launches which that rear wont hold up to. I thought you were building a street strip car. My misunderstanding ...Another option, I dont know your current motor specifics is a centrifical blower, ATI for example. It would bring you way under your $$ limit and you would easily be 475+with good heads and cam 355. Its too bad you couldnt put a whipple or Kenne Bell on the car. Would be a beast out of the corners with a twin screw. The ls based swap with just a bolt on whipple or KB would be a track burner for sure. Instant bigblock tq out of the corners would be nasty. Make an easy 500+ftlbs or more on a whipple or kb based ls swap motor. Id vote for that ls swap.

Thing about LS swap thats not a LS1 from a f body is that I have to buy oil pan and accessories. Small things like a hv oil pump, custom harness and what nots that brings the cost up quickly. I got the lq4 for 400 bucks complete, I got it just to sell it for more or trade for a lt1 t56. I built Ls motors b4 but it was just OEM specs with stuff brand new stuff. So mitch matching 3rd gen and 4th gen SBC I will have to do my homework. Not much I don't know about a basic sbc build (406 is basic bolt on engine).