just exploring my options on an engine swap and im wanting to know who has the best crate engine these days. wanting to do a 383 but i will take a 350 also, just in general who has the best set up and best bang for the buck. not afraid to buy a bone stock set up and work my way up.. anyways thanks

 

I think bang for buck, the best deal on the web is the GM Goodwrench 350 crate motor from Jegs, right now its only $1,500 with free shipping. Chance the heads, cam, and use a good intake and headers and you should have a decent little 350

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400764245043?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
but if you need a roller motor, that makes the choices more expensive unfortunately

 

I have a zz385 (385 fastburn) crate engine from GM Performance, i've put roller rockers and swapped the intake on it, best engine I've ever had.

 

Morning Red,
Question...what intake are you running?

 

Morning, It is a GMPP Vortec Eliminator, high rise, single plane. this one here actually: http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...96822/10002/-1

Essentially I turned my zz385 into the CT400 crate engine. It should be right around 400 hp now. Only other mod I plan to do is eventually intall the LT4 hot-cam kit to bump it up to around 430

 

Gotcha. Thanks!

 

that's essentially what I have in my 69 Camaro....its a GM Performance 385 fast burn with upgraded Hot Cam, and 1.6 roller rockers making it the ZZ430

I totally agree with your statement....its the best, and fastest running 350 I've had....youd swear it was fuel injected, the throttle response is fantastic!

it may not be the cheapest out there, but its the best I've had so far, and I've had quite abit

 

Man, that is a beautiful set up

 

I could look at that engine ALL DAY LONG!!!! Looks very nice in there!

 

you guys are awesome, ive heard good things about the GM good wrench engines as a platform to build upon. My dad said he will help me do the "Machining" things to it. i plan on swapping heads, cam, headers, and intake obviously but it's new to me so ill do more research before i purchase and see what sounds best and runs best. probably keeping TPI as the set up but im also considering carb as well. really looking at 350-400 HP. just that awesome throw you back in the seat feel and quick response, but anyways thanks for the replies. i imagine there is a check list or just parts list to refer to? as in what people highly recommend?

 

I would recommend the L31 over the Goodwrench 350 in post #2. You get Vortec heads, and a roller cam for the extra $300 ($1710 vs $2030).

Add beehive springs, Comp 787 retainer, and +.050" locks, screw in studs (optional), stab in a LT4 HOT cam, and you will have a hot ticket.

 

Another vote for the GM L31..

The goodwrench is a good base but it's just a very low performance engine. If you are swapping parts around look at the total price of crate, plus the parts you want to swap on.

The L31 like MoJoe mentioned is only $300 more... Where can you get a good pair of vortec heads and a retro fit roller cam for $300?

The vortec heads are the go to budget mild performance head. Easy to get 400 HP from a 10:1 350 with vortec heads and right cam

 

I think the year one power crate 350 is a no brainer https://yearone.com/Product/1982-02-Camaro/CT350PC1/view

For $2999 you get 400+ horsepower and roughly 440ftlbs of torque.

Year One Power Crate 400hp 350 crate engine assembly.

Engine Specifications:
* Horsepower: 400+
* Torque: 400+ ft/lbs
* Compression ratio: 9.7:1
* Includes 8" balancer & 14" flexplate
* Dyno sheet: Included with engine's output
* Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM
* Recommended fuel: 92 octane
* Max recommended RPM- 5800
* Block: Seasoned 4-bolt iron
* Crankshaft: OE cast iron
* Pistons: Hypereutectic
* Connecting rods: Powdered metal
* Camshaft- Hydraulic roller with YearOne proprietary specifcations
* Rocker arms: Stamped steel 1.6:1 ratio
* Cylinder heads: Ported Dart Iron Vortec
* Valves: Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh
* Valve springs: Heavy duty
* Bore x Stroke: 4.04" x 3.48"
* Intake manifold: Dual-plane aluminum
* Oil pan, timing cover, valve covers included
* Engine fasteners: High tensile strength
* Warranty: 12 mth/12,000 mi

 

Wow! The year one engine looks great on paper. The compression is very street friendly, I wonder what the cam specs are.. I would definitely be interested in that

 

I don't know the answers, but I'm curious about...

A "seasoned" block. Is that a euphemism for used?

"No Name" pistons, cam, rockers, valves, intake, and fasteners. Where a name brand part (heads) is used, they mention it specifically. My experience has been when they don't mention a name brand, it means a chinese made knock-off, which does not impress me at all.

 

I put a GM 350 crate from Summit Racing in my 85. It was about $1500 and I got it with a free shipping promotion. With headers and 3" exhaust it is very fun to drive. Yeah I know its not the most powerful crate out there but bang for the buck factor is awesome.

 

Yes, seasoned block does mean the block was slightly used but all the internals are completely brand new. I've extensively researched this engine in other forums where other people have looked into the internals and can guarantee there is no Chinese knockoff parts in this motor. The parts I believe come from Barret Precision Engines http://www.bpaengines.com/ which looks like a very reputable engine manufacturer. Out of countless forums I've scoured through in the topic of this motor I've found nothing but good things about it and not a single bad experience with this motor. Also this motor has been selling like hotcakes for about 10 years now. So in that regard it is standing the test of time.

 

Seasoned = used and that's not a bad thing. With GM blocks the block tends to twist, have core shift over time.

So by getting a "Seasoned" block you know it has already shifted as much as it's going to, and now you can aline hone the mains and if the cam bore if needed to correct any core shift and have a block that's gonna be true for the next 300,000 miles.

Aftermarket blocks like the Dart, world/motown, brodix, etc do not have this same problem

 

I thought "core shift" was when the sand forms to create the voids in the block shifted during the casting process. This causes thin vs thick sections, instead of the desired cast, such as thin cylinder walls that distort, and could not be over-bored. Therefore, either a block had core-shifted, or it had not. That particular aspect does not change in the block's lifetime.

As for the rest of your comments; regarding the block twisting in use, I do not have knowledge for or against it.

 

I was in a rush posting that, I guess I didn't go into detail enough.


You are correct, core shift comes from the sand casting of block. It does change over time though. Think about metal of diff thickness.. A thin metal will move, distort, bend, where a thicker one will not. Plus thin metal heats faster than a thick metal, and when it becomes hot enough it can be formed/change shape.

The thin spots in a block that has some core shift from the factory over time will change and stretch out so speak.

The heat cycling of the engine changes the metal over time, making it stronger, also relaxes and removes any mild stress points that could crack if high loads/pressure/use was placed on block when it was new.

Yep and blocks do twist.. You would think a 150 lb. iron block would be stable but they twist alot.

This is sorta the same reason to use a torque plate when honing a block. The clamping force of bolting the heads on cause distortion around the bores.. That's pretty much 'twisting' the block.