Like the title says I'm building a 355, I have a set of 062 vortec heads and I have some questions. I've searched tons of forms looking for answers. I realize the stock heads have a max lift somewhere from .420-.480 according to other forms (no consistent answers) but I'm looking to get a cam somewhere in the .500 lift area. This will be a budget build so I want to keep it as cheap as possible, new springs are a must I have read of some people using ls7 or z06 springs and retainers and locks, will these work without machining the heads? Can I use the stock vortec rockers with these springs? I'm also wondering do I need to run vortec head gaskets or will a standard sbc gasket work? Thanks

 

Mine new showed .510 clearance till the retainer hit the seal.
The seals can be pushed farther down but no idea weather that is a good idea or not.

I use ls6 springs, comp 787 retainers and comp 648 locks.
I checked the available retainer to seal clearance and had around .560 to .570. CRS is taking over so make sure you measure.

I am using the stock vortec guided rockers with no problem

Lunati 10030 cam - .503 lift.

 

If you looked around the net, then I'm sure you came across the very long thread on nastyz28 about vortec heads.

In my V8 S10 I done the "ghetto grind" as mentioned in that thread. Grind 3/32" off the bottom of the stock vortec retainers, and I'm running a set of howards 98212 1.26" OD springs with inner flat damper spring removed.

My cam is .484"/.512" lift.

This works great for me.

You can use any std. head gasket. If your block has not been decked, I would reommed the fel pro 1094 coated shim 4.100" x .015" gasket as they help to bump up compression and tighten up your quench height.

Intake gaskets most be the right ones. The only ones I like and seem to work for me every time is the fel pro MS98000T intake gasket set.

Stock vortec rocker arms will work fine

 

Intake gaskets and proper torque on the manifold bolts (11 ft lbs) is essential. The 9800t set is good but I've also found the Victor Reinz 16167P to work and found them at az for around $30. The key is to get a set with the metal reinforcing to prevent crush.

 

Same here, I even learned the hard way about some clearance issues. Get the guides cut at a local reputable machine shop and you'll be golden for over .500" lift.

 

how did you end up taking the 3/32" off? This sounds like the cheapest way of giving myself the correct amount of lift

 

It wasn't very hard to do. The 1st couple takes awhile as it's a learning curve, grind, measure, etc. After the 1st couple, you get where you can fly right through the rest.

I clamped a retainer in my vise, used a 4.5" angle grinder, and kept grinding wheel flat against the retainer. I used a dial caliper to measure the thickness. Measure before you start so you know how thick/tall retainer is to start with, then grind off 3/32" (.09375")

 

Do you know the stock gm part number for the ls6 springs? I'm re thinking the ghetto grind

 

12625033 single
12499224 set of 16

Be aware the base of the spring is a tight fit at the base to guide.

The only reason I went with the ls6 spring - comp retainer/lock combo was that I already had the springs sitting around and was unwilling to pull the heads on my new crate engine for machining.

If the heads were loose I probably would have done the ghetto grind with some appropriate springs instead of sending them off to the machine shop. That is if they needed nothing other than springs.

 

See my heads are loose but I just don't see how you can keep a consistent thickness with a hand grinder

 

Do the guides need to be for sure cut with this setup?

 

Not exactly, the guides had plenty of room when I used some standard springs, (since I had the guides machined). I ended up replacing the springs in favor of the LS6 springs for other reasons. I should have clarified that. My cam is also .507" intake and .515" exhaust lift. Its best to measure your installed height on your own application. You might be able to run the LS6 springs with your cam without machine work, but you wont know until you measure.

 

You can mark the retainers with a scribe if needed and grind to scribed line. I have a lot of hands on grinding time and what not so I can get pretty darn close.

After doing 3 retainers with the grind, measure, grind, measure, etc, I was able to get within .010" of my target on the 1st grind, measure, then grind to my target.

All of mine are within +/- .005"

Also keep in mind you have a good bit of play in your grinding, you do not have to be dead on the .09375"

Taking .09375" gives you clearance for .515" lift and a .050" safety clearance, so even if your off by .010 or even .020" you will still be fine.