ik a lot of u guys have done this swap before can someone tel me the best and most efficient way to remove the motor mounts from the k member and so I can move them up
THANKS!!!

 

You'll need two people unless you are small. I used a wrench to get to the bolts from the opening where the A-Arm is, and had my Dad use my impact on the nuts on the outside.

You will need V8 mounts as the V6 mounts are different from the V8 ones.

 

After dropping the socket into the frame, I just took off the control arms and used that time to get new bushings lol. Something to think about.

 

Thanks guy and rubbber ducky my mounts will work the motor Is from the same exact car and 92 v6. That is is getting a 92 v8 everyone I takes to it all fits together they just have to be moved forward

 

V8 mounts are NOT the same as the V6 mounts... End of story.

I have done atleast 15 V6 to V8 swaps on these cars over the years. My own 1988 camaro was a V6 car, now a V8.

You need the V8 steel clam shells for the engine
And you need the V8 rubber engine mounts for K member
You also need to move the placement of the V8 mount on the K member.

 

Thats why I'm asking how to remove old ones

 

From what I recall there are access holes in the K-Member that can help if you have the right wrenches to take advantage of them. That said, the angles from the holes to the nuts may be different as mine was for a V8. I think too that the nuts will fall into the K-Member if you're not careful.

 

You can take off the A arms which makes it easier...

Or you can fight with extensions, wobble/u joints, and wrenches

The 1st few I did, I went with the ladder of the two. Since then I just started dropping the A arms.

The engine mount bolts/nuts are 15mm. I took an old cheap wrench and bent the boxed end part to about a 35* angle or so to help get up through the access holes and to the nuts

Use small dia. rare earth magnets in your socket to hold nut in place...
Use heavy wheel bearing grease in your wrench box end to help hold nut in place.
Even pack your U joint/wobble joint with grease so it's stiffer.

The combo of my bent wrench, 3/8" drive extensions in diff lengths, a couple of U joints and diff length sockets worked

You can go in from the round drilled access holes in K member and also the gap between the A arm and K member.. On the back side of K member, reaching kinda through the spring a little