This is my first project car. It is a 1986 Iroc auto..well...it doesn't have a tranny, but it was an auto. It is also missing an engine and a drive shaft. I want to tear the carpet out and take care of rust, which I'm sure I will find. I want to clean and paint the underneath with some tractor paint or something from Tractor Supply. Next year, however, I want to buy an engine. I wanted to buy a crate engine, but my dad has me talked into a Corvette engine, a 350, to put in it. I also want to get a t5 tranny for it and get rid of the auto. I was told that it was fuel injected, but I want it to be carborated. What would you do? Remember, this is sort of a budget car. Every tax season it gets closer to the open road.

 

Since you are on a budget, save your money and buy a running car in better shape. It will be much cheaper in the long run.

 

Too late, I already own this one. Literally the engine and trans was just ripped out of this one.No cut wires, so they did it clean. I want to clean up around the firewall and paint underneath the hood before i drop a 350 in it.

 

When I said "On a Budget," I simply meant that I don't have loads of money to throw at it. Just stuff every tax season. I figured I'd buy the engine and trans next year and this year I can focus on getting rid of rust areas if there are any. I can do other little things like new shocks, brakes,ect...

 

How old are you, if dont mind me asking~

Think about your plans. What do you want to do with it? Drag race? Circle track? Street car? Gas saver? This is all relevant because you will need to build everything around these intentions. A monster 350 for drag racing will shred a worn out old T5.... See where I'm gong with this?

Take time and study this car. Research forums. Research 350's, how to build them. There are soooo many options and ideas. Lots of threads dedicated to making these cars run and look perfect.

Having someone tell you how to work on your car every step takes all the fun out of it.

 

Oh, oh....


If you are just looking for a project to fiddle with, that's one thing. If you are looking for an operational car at a reasonable price that's another. I can already see that you will put more money in your project than you would into a decent, running car.

 

I am 30. That is what I'm doing now..researching. What options are available if the T5 won't hold up to a 350? This is going to be a street car/Sunday driver. I've always wanted to fiddle with a car and I can't afford a 60s, so here I am with the 86. If I mess it up big deal. There are thousands of 3rd gens out there. I paid $400 for this car.

I want the car to look good, sound good, and drive good. That is the end goal.

 

Check this thread out:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ything-we.html

Keep it auto or get a T56?

 

If you are looking for a project to have fun with, then you are good to go. A T5 will hold up to a moderate 350 if you drive it without abuse. 1MeanZ has a pretty healthy 350 he daily drives with a T5, I'll see if I can find his thread....

 

Here you go....

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/hist...tore-back.html

 

I have been down this road too many times to count... Well ok i've been down this road eight times lol!

Like the others have said, planning is key. Give the car a good once over before you start buying parts because a totally rusted out car isn't really worth fixing. I have changed thirdgen builds four times in the last six years because the cars weren't worth fixing. My current build was exactly what I was looking for, was the cheapest to buy, and is in the best condition of the last four. So don't be afraid to drop this camaro for a better condition one down the road. Like you said there a a ton of thirdgens to be had and I always keep the best parts off of the old project to put on the new project lol!

Budget wise you seem to know how you're going to fund it so put in what ever you want. I started off doing an LS build and now due to cost am going with a vortec 5.7 out of a '98 tahoe. I plan out and do a ton of research before I purchase and in the end I pay the cheapest amount for exactly what I need. If it takes you five years to get it on the road the so be it.

If you want to go manual from auto look for a t56 to put in instead of the t5. A world class t5 (88-92 v8 camaros and birds) will hold a mild 350, but a t56 will take more torque and you're going to have to cut a hole anyway.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress!

 

Is a t56 a six speed? Also, when looking for a 350, how do I know it will fit my Camaro? There are different styles I'm sure. Is is better to get a Corvette 350?

 

Bump. I also wanted to know how I can tell if a 350 will fit in my car? Is it a 4 bolt main? That seems to be the most common I'm finding on CL. As for the t56, not too many used ones around eh? How do I know if a t56 will fit my 350? I'm trying to make a list on how things are going to go and I need the trans first.

 

Ok, it will fit with some adjusting. Any 350 will fit.

 

Any 350 from a Chevy will fit. When you hear 4 bolt or 2 bolt main, disregard it. They are talking about an internal engine part (the caps that physically hold the crank in place), being a 4 bolt is only beneficial for guys looking to make significant amounts of power. We run a 400hp motor on a 2 bolt main.

 

What about generations? Obviously an 80s 350 will yield less horsepower than those from the 60-70s. What about a 90s? Truck 350s seem to be the most common on CL. I plan on stripping it down and rebuilding. Might as well since its already out. Also want it carburated. It is currently fuel injected.

 

About the "Corvette engine" recommendation - forget it. The "Corvette tax" will make it cost more than any possible benefit. You can swap out the cam and make most any 350 make as much or more power than a "Corvette engine" for a lot less money.

Okay, generations of 350's:
1968-1979 - The first of the breed. 2-piece rear main seal, dip stick on the driver side, any heads from the factory worth anything are in the hands of collectors. Until 1975, the heads didn't have hardened exhaust valves or seats and would burn easily. Machining quality usually pretty poor. I'd avoid looking for an engine from this era (including "Corvette").

1980-1985 - Most notable change was the dipstick moved to the passenger side. All factory heads were performance junk (even though they had hardened valve seats).

1986 - first year of the 1-piece rear main seal (a very nice improvement). Half-way through the model year, Corvettes got aluminum heads.

1987 - Passenger car 350s got roller lifter cam, another nice improvement. Heads got center bolt valve covers (a very nice improvement from a sealing standpoint). TPI heads were actually pretty decent. Corvette TPI heads were all aluminum from this point through 1991.

1988-1995 - Heads used self-aligning rocker arms. Introduction of the "swirl-port" head, used on TBI engines (not the best performance-wise, but okay for a cruiser).

1996-1999 - Light trucks got the "Vortec" engines, which had the best heads from the factory that will fit on 350's mentioned so far. Not a bad choice, just make sure it's a 350 and not a 305 Vortec.

1993-1997 f-body (1992-1996 in Corvettes) - the "LT1" engine. Electronic fuel injection, reverse coolant flow. Aluminum heads. A nice choice, but more of a swap task than what's been mentioned so far, and EFI is a better choice than converting it to carb. Were also used in full-size "B-body" passenger cars (Caprice, Roadmaster, etc.), but had cast iron heads.

After that we're talking the LS era. Another nice choice, but a lot more work to swap in.

The generation of the engine isn't that important from a power standpoint, because power is a combination of cam, heads, exhaust, and induction. You can take a low-power truck engine, put aftermarket heads, a good cam, good intake, and properly-sized carb with headers and free-flowing exhaust on it and make more power than any factory 350 ever did.

You say it was fuel injected and now you want to go carburetor. Not a problem, but there will be an electric fuel pump in the tank. I would recommend using it, but you will need a regulator to lower the fuel pressure to a carb-friendly level, and it has to be the more expensive return-style regulator.