ls1 swap wiring help
#1
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Car: 1989 Chevrolet Camaro Rs
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
ls1 swap wiring help
I ran out of hair to pull out of my head, i need help with this one. I have an 89 camaro rs originally 305 5 speed. i have installed an 01 ls1 with t56 and used a stand alone wiring harness since my engine did not come with one. i have test fired the engine and is running and everything is working as it should. my problem is i cant get the car stared with the factory ignition. i chopped down the engine wiring per pockets thread and have had no luck. ive got lights and power to cluster, no power to my radio yet and do not hear the fuel pump prime when i turn the key. engine will not crank. i have tried alldata and purchased a few manuals but i am tired of looking for diagrams that are not there. cant find wiring for fuel pump for my specific car, everything is completely different from the manuals. does anyone have a the wiring diagram for fuel pump on 89 camaro and for ignition?
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Car: 1990 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: ls1 swap wiring help
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=19
Your car's ignition and fuel wiring will be the same as the ones here. I don't believe they changed.
All you need to do for fuel is run the control wire for your fuel pump relay to the fuel control pin on the ls1 ecm. (pin 9, dont remember which connector).
Id double check that you have 12v from the battery on C100 pin A4 and G5. See here:
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport..._1989_C100.gif
Those are the fuse block power supplies from the battery. A4 powers your ignition switch, which in turn powers anything that is only powered on with the key turned on. If you get 12v there, with the key ON I would stick a test light into a couple fuse slots to see if your ignition switch is supplying 12v to things like HTR or ECM. If you get power to ECM fuse with the key on, your ignition switch may be okay.
If you have power at the ECM fuse in the fuse box, with your multimeter, test for 12v with key OFF at BLUE Pin 20, 57. This should be 12v constant from the battery. Then with the key ON check for 12v at Blue 19. This should be the voltage from your ECM Fuse.
Make sure your Starter enable relay is grounded or bypassed. There is a small black/yellow wire on it that runs to the PASSKEY module, and is grounded when PASSKEY senses the right resistance. Your starter wire goes from your ignition switch, through the clutch pedal safety switch, through the Starter Enable Relay, and out through the C100 (Large Purple Wire, pin B4) to the starter solenoid. So if any of those arent connecting, your starter wont turn. Check for continuity across your clutch safety switch (only 2 wires, should have continuity when the pedal is pressed). Id also make sure your starter enable relay is bypassed. You can just take the large yellow and large purple wires and connect them together.
Start there.
And, just curious, you did have VATS tuned out of the new ECM correct?
Your car's ignition and fuel wiring will be the same as the ones here. I don't believe they changed.
All you need to do for fuel is run the control wire for your fuel pump relay to the fuel control pin on the ls1 ecm. (pin 9, dont remember which connector).
Id double check that you have 12v from the battery on C100 pin A4 and G5. See here:
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport..._1989_C100.gif
Those are the fuse block power supplies from the battery. A4 powers your ignition switch, which in turn powers anything that is only powered on with the key turned on. If you get 12v there, with the key ON I would stick a test light into a couple fuse slots to see if your ignition switch is supplying 12v to things like HTR or ECM. If you get power to ECM fuse with the key on, your ignition switch may be okay.
If you have power at the ECM fuse in the fuse box, with your multimeter, test for 12v with key OFF at BLUE Pin 20, 57. This should be 12v constant from the battery. Then with the key ON check for 12v at Blue 19. This should be the voltage from your ECM Fuse.
Make sure your Starter enable relay is grounded or bypassed. There is a small black/yellow wire on it that runs to the PASSKEY module, and is grounded when PASSKEY senses the right resistance. Your starter wire goes from your ignition switch, through the clutch pedal safety switch, through the Starter Enable Relay, and out through the C100 (Large Purple Wire, pin B4) to the starter solenoid. So if any of those arent connecting, your starter wont turn. Check for continuity across your clutch safety switch (only 2 wires, should have continuity when the pedal is pressed). Id also make sure your starter enable relay is bypassed. You can just take the large yellow and large purple wires and connect them together.
Start there.
And, just curious, you did have VATS tuned out of the new ECM correct?
Last edited by kenney001; 07-18-2016 at 04:05 PM.
#3
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Car: 1989 Chevrolet Camaro Rs
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
Re: ls1 swap wiring help
thank you so much for your reply. i will start here and double check everything. just got very frustrated. and yes vats has been dissabled.
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