diablo1977

I know that for a fuel injected swap you need 350 injectors, 350 specific knock sensor, 350 ESC module, and a 350 chip, although I have a 1983 Camaro Z28 High Output Edition, and its carbureted. My question is, for a carved swap will I need anything new or could I just literally drop in a 350? I have a a Holley 650 CFM, would that be big enough to supply it? Im only 16 and work part time so I have a VERY tight budget. Im looking at a 72 corvette 350 with a four bolt main for 300, and I would like to possibly get it bored and or stroked, and perhaps a new camshaft. How much would I be in for with those modifications and without? Also, I have quite a bit of mechanics knowledge although ive never done an engine swap. Would this be a first swap? How long would you estimate it taking? I appreciate any helpful info, thanks!

diablo1977

Oh, and also I know I may need new headers/intake manifold. It has a Borg warner T5 transmission, and an 5 liter L69.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Be forewarned... A 1970's smog-era 350 can easily produce less power than an L69.

Search around a bit for information on the ZZ4 swap package for thirdgens. GM already did all the footwork to make the ZZ4 a bolt in smog-legal replacement for carbed 305s, down to the smallest detail. Granted some of it won't apply to an earlier vintage engine, but it'll give you a good idea what parts from the 305 won't cooperate with a 350.

Personally, I wouldn't mess with an older V8. 87-later blocks just work better. Improvements in gasket technology alone are worth looking for a later block. Then you get into roller cams, and dipstick tube location being compatible with thirdgen exhaust manifolds, starters and flywheels matching up easier, etc. You couldn't give me a Gen-1 350 that needed a rebuild.

diablo1977

Well I did some research on it, the code is 3970014. Like mentioned earlier its a four bolt main which I feel like would be a good starting point, and the stats online said it was rated at 255 HP at the crank, which would be a nice upgrade compared to the 190 I have right now. Speaking of which, I am almost certain mine is an L69 but haven't had the chance to check the RPO code. I did research and found that 1983 was the first year for high output and came with an L69. It also said it had a 4bbl rochester with electronic mixture sensors which mine had. I heard you can tell by the vin engine number(which mine is 7 I believe) but wasnt sure. Would it be worth it to just keep my 305 and put all my money into building it? i think it may have a blown head gasket, which is why I'm looking into this in the first place

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

I would go with the 350 over the 305 any day. Yea a new roller 350 would be nice but with headers, a mild cam, good intake and the Holley 650 you should make way under more power than the tired 305.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

I wouldn't build a 305. I wouldn't tell my worst enemy to swap a smogger 350 for his existing 305HO. If the 305 needs machine work, I'd be looking for a late 80's-late 90's 350, preferably a crate motor so I could skip the machine shop hassles, and junk parts.

A $300 smogger 350 core will turn into a $1500 machine work and parts bill before you know it. That's assuming the cylinder heads aren't garbage, and you stick with a mostly stock rebuild without any fancy parts. I've been down that road and I'd never do it again.

diablo1977

Thank you for the advice ill look into something else. If the heads need to be milled a mechanic I talked with said he would do them for 50$ a head. I may just save up for an LS Swap, or get a later 350 at my local pull a part

diablo1977

Would you suggest a 500$ 5.7 L 350 Vortec? Its from a 96 chevy Silverado

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

that vortec block+vortec heads is the ideal combo to swap in. just keep in mind that you will have to get a vortec compatible intake manifold if you use the vortec heads. I'd also try to wiggle that price down a little.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

$500 is about right, for a running condition motor with high miles but nothing wrong with it. Always try to beat em down if you can, but if not, ... could be worse.

There's nothing wrong with the stock L69 carb, for the purpose at hand.

You probably don't have a blown head gasket. Those are FAR less common than Friday night McDonalds parking lot monkey-spank would lead you to believe. Regardless, there's NO SENSE in spending A DIME on a 305, when you can get 350s as cheeeeeeeeep and eeeeeeeeeeezy as you can. Same for smogger 70s 350s, such as anything built out of a 014 block casting is likely to be... that'll probably have either 882 or 624 heads, or 193 "swirlies", especially if it comes from a "cheeeep" local rebuilder. Total crap in either case. The block isn't what makes power; heads do. you can take THE BLOCK out of a 75 Impala 350 2-bbl and turn it into a 700 HP race motor, or just as easily, take the one from a "LT-1" from a 70½ "Z/28" and turn it into a 165 HP turd. All ya gotta do, is put dished pistons in it, 882 or 624 heads on it, and a 929 cam into it. Voilą, instant recipe for a 160 HP 70s grandma sedan snail.

Which, along the same vein, you're NOT looking at a "72 Corvette" motor. You're looking at some random motor somebody cobbled together using the same block casting number that came in 72 Vettes, which was also used in just about every other 72 application.

Rule #1 of hotrodding: any time somebody whups out the "V" word, and you can't physically SEE THE CAR, they are LYING. Pure and simple. Don't fall for it.

You'll want headers, no matter what motor you end up with, even if you keep the 305. They are THE SINGLE BIGGEST bang for the buck under the hood. Manifolds are choking your 305 as it is; just think what a a bottleneck they'll be for a motor that needs to move more air. They're strangulation.

Get GOOD ones. Few things in life are a worse PITA than cheeeeeep headers. Don't fall for trying to get the cheeeeeeeepest thing you can find that somebody didn't go to jail for mail fraud when they put that word on the box and shipped em USPS. Good ones are worth every penny it takes to get em. Get stainless ones and have em coated. Dyno Don's are probably about the best choice around nowadays.

You'll need a new intake for a Vortec 350. Get yerbasic Edelbrock Performer.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

BTW, I had a 78 Z28 with a 014 block in it. It was "rated" at 180 HP, which is all any 70s motors that came in vehicles were "rated" at. I had it when I bought my 83 L69 car (traded in a 79 Z28 on that), got rid of the 78 in about 85 I think. The 83 would totally mop up the pavement with that L48 POS. I bet it was 2 seconds faster in the ¼... doesn't sound like much, but, have you ever watched a drag race where they started at the same time but were 2 seconds different? One car goes by, then you kinda stand there for a bit, maybe drink a beer or something, then after awhile another car goes by. It doesn't even look like a race at all. That's how much faster the L69 was than a GOOD 70s smogger turd was. The really crappy 70s smogger turds,,, ... ,, .... there was even more difference than that.

diablo1977

Alright well I appreciate all the advice once again, ill look into the vortec, headers, and intake. If my engine is fine and its just a clogged radiator as I suspect I will probably build the engine over a couple months.

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

YES! This is what you want. Very lil work you can have over 300HP easy.

Jacobaxeman

Hey throw them my way, got a car needing a block and can use them as scrap metal, target practice, bench, some space to fill in garage,yard art, and another knee breaker

kentuckyKITT

iTrader: (4)

I would agree, I have a 97 Silverado 2WD with this engine and it's pretty peppy even in the heavier truck. I've barked 2nd before and it's totally stock. I've often wondered how it would perform in one of my Pontiacs, but I'm not taking the engine out of my truck!lol