I have finally started my engine swap. Starting with a 91 with 3.1 and automatic. It had already been swapped to two barrel inline carb. Never idled or ran right and has vats problems. I am not new to engine swaps but I expect I will have some questions.
This car will have several custom touches. Not a new idea but sequential taillights and the first (I believe) lit up 84 TA taillight center bird with other tail light work. A made by me custom rear spoiler and other things not mentioned before on this forum. I want to put power passenger seat in but have not fully looked into it yet. I know they say it does not fit.
New engine is a 2000 350 with all new bearings, timing chain and oil pump. Flat Top pistons and lt4 hot cam with stock ratio 1.6 rockers. Using a set of Vortec heads with Scoggins Dicky intake. Serpentine belt and long tube headers. I will need a tune for the 305 ECM. Anybody can do this please let me know. I am not interested in buying everything needed to do it myself.
The trans is a T56 from 95 Camaro. I have new hydraulics and clutch etc. Will need to put hole in firewall. I have a (dare I say) never been done before idea for the reverse lockout.
I have started. Pulled of all accessories. The alternator bolt was frozen in place and stripped but it is off. This gave me good access to the motor mount bolts. I pulled electric fan and disconnected all electrical I could find. Cut exhaust free. Unbolted starter. Went to trans and disconnected shifter cable and wiring. Unbolted the trans mount and loosened crossmember for now. The exhaust and torque arm mount thru bolts are stuck but I will figure something out. After they are loose I should be able to lift engine and trans out as one piece.
After engine is out obviously I need to unbolt frame mounts and clean that area. Deal with brake lines and bolt in complete new frame mounts. Then for ease and moveability I will put in new front coils. This will allow me to move it out of the shop and pressure wash engine bay.
Would it be a good idea to tack weld the new frame mount bolts in place or is that a stupid idea. I am thinking easier if ever needed to be done again.
I will update when I get more done.
Any ideas or thoughts please feel free to add them.

 

I have been having a hard time working in my shop with the 110 degree temps in there.
I did get the motor out. Took a bit of work still but it came out. Things I noticed that might be worth noting: The wiring harness is attached to engine/transmission top bolts and the ground strap was completely hidden on the passenger side.
Another day I got the old mounts off, brake lines moved out of the way and the new mounts bolted in place. I had to undo the shocks again to get open end wrench in place. Closed would not fit without being bent. I could not find an old one. Be very careful not to drop nuts into the frame. After the mounts were off I unscrewed the brake line clamps and bent them out of the way. Tried to make them look like they could have came that way. Used factory clamp holes as much as possible. There was no hole on driver side that I liked so I need to drill one screw hole.
Bolting the new mounts in was easy for the top two bolts. The bottom one I had to find a way to get my hand in to start the nut on each side. I did drop at least one on each side. Found other nuts that fit in my spare parts bins. My helper was up top with an air gun for the removal and new installs. I did clean it up and painted that whole mount area before bolting them in.
I now need to set the motor in and block under the oil pan. Then put in new coil springs. (I always prefer having motor in a vehicle when I put coil springs in.)