(If this belongs in a different board let me know)
Hi everyone, first time posting here, but been around for a while. Looking for any and all feedback on this build from the community here. A bit of a brain dump below with thoughts. I plan to keep everyone updated as I move along.
Baseline details:
1988 Trans Am 305 TPI with 700R4 transmission (I'm sure you have all the details on this but if you need more context on the stock setup let me know)
My initial thought was to build up the 305 as much as possible to keep this a "what could I have done with it in the 80's. After a few years of owning the car I decided to go for it and in the process of pulling the engine and looking at what I could accomplish decided to find a 3rd gen 350 block and just drop in and add your typical power adders. Meanwhile, a friend of mine had an older 350 block already bored over .030 available for free so I figured why not build out a 383 stroker and see what we can push for a still naturally aspirated street sleeper and show car. I've taken the block to my local machine shop to have it tested and inspected. The bore was taken to .040 over to clean up some surface pitting on the cylinder walls, but otherwise is ready to build up. I did not get anything else from the original motor, just the block. I'm at a point where I'm questioning whether anything from my 305 will be useable, so noting things below. If nothing transfers over to this build that's fine, I'm eyeing a V6 1996 manual Camaro for sale down the street, maybe I'll drop it in there but for now, I'll reassemble the 305 and shelf it. Where I get caught up is doing math then trying to match with parts, and going through everything what I have and what would be salvageable versus needing replaced.
Current State - Engine and trans are out, all suspension is off, rear end off, fuel tank dropped
Build Goals:
450HP (9.5:1-10.0:1)
500ft/lb torque
Streetable, no track expectations but maybe some day I'll go try something out for fun
Retain stock look (wheels and interior mostly)
Engine Details:
3970010 casting number
4-bolt main, 2-piece rear main seal
4.040 bore
9.025 deck (I need to call my shop back to confirm they didn't deck it yet for any reason, expect a cleanup pass for flatness)
Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit - I could use some advice here as I'm looking at available options, this is currently my only urgent item to get locked in so I can get it to the machine shop and finish assembly and any clearances. The rest I plan on doing myself.
Crankshaft Forged preferred, cast OK
3.75 Stroke
External balanced with flexplate and harmonic balancer - My 305 components won't work anyway
I-beam connecting rods - Forged, 5.700 length
4.040 pistons (flat -5cc dual vent)- Forged preferred, hypereutectic OK
10.0:1 target compression max, 9.5:1 minimum
Calculation:
788.2cc per cylinder
92.1cc clearance (72cc chamber+5.4cc gasket+19.7cc deck-5cc piston relief)
9.6:1 CR
Heads
195-200cc runner
72-75cc chamber
2.02/1.60
0.600 lift
Dart 200 heads but also have been looking at AFR 195 Eliminators and Trickflow 195 Super 23 (Trickflow seems to be out of stock until next summer?)
Camshaft - Recommendation here as well, my thoughts on target ranges
Roller with retrofit kit - block is pre-roller
Currently looking at K12-466-8 Comp Cam kit, but target ranges below
Advertised - 268-280
.050 Intake - 218-228
.050 exhaust - 220-232
LSA 112-114
Lobe intake - .310-.330
lobe exhaust - .315-.335
1.6 roller rockers
valve intake - .496-.528
valve exhaust - .504-.536
Powerband 2500-6000 RPM
Intake/Ignition/Fuel
Decision:
Holly Stealth Ram - keeps my 58mm throttle body, need to find the correct rails to support (can keep distributor?)
Holly Hi Ram - Need LS throttle body, comes with fuel rails, convert to coil per cylinder? Sure maybe I'll need a new hood for clearance...
Holly EFI Terminator X Universal
45-50lb/hr injectors
255 or 340 gal/hr fuel pump 43psi
Increase feed and return lines
Exhaust (open to changes)
I had previously purchased Summit shorty headers and Doug's D901 Y pipe
Flowmaster 2000125 Cat
Flowmaster 17234 Cat back
Transmission
My plan is to send my 700R4 out for a level 1 build. I would not be opposed to doing this myself but I have never worked on a transmission before. Worst case I have to buy another transmission if I blow it up or send it out later to get fixed?
2400-2600 stall converter
UMI torque bar and trans mount (purchased)
Rear End/Drivetrain/Wheels and Brakes
Hawks 8.8 rear end, 3.73 gearing, 33 spline true trac
Aluminum driveshaft, U-Joint OK?
Front Brakes - 140-11275-dr Wilwood (12.19 rotor, 4 piston) - Needs front spindle modification
Rear Brakes - 140-7141-dr Wilwood (12.19 rotor, 4 piston)
Stock master cylinder and booster?
Stock proportioning valve?
DOT3 or DOT5.1?
e-brake cable swap to LS/LT1
Stock wheels and we can discuss tires
Suspension
All UMI, fixed not adjustable rear end (purchased)
All UMI front end including cradle (purchased)
Frame Connector (purchased)
Bilstein rear shocks (purchased)
Need front strut replacements
UMI lower springs front and rear (purchased)
Other notables
AC delete with delete pully
Smog delete
Considering cruise delete
Stock steering shaft and gear box/pitman arm
Proforged steering rebuild kit (purchased)
aluminum radiator and dual fan
stock alternator and battery size
high flow oil filter (Melling M55)
stock starter
water pump (block is mechanical, convert to electrical with 305 close off plate)
I'm sure I'm missing something in the write up, feel free to make recommendations or comments
Hi everyone, first time posting here, but been around for a while. Looking for any and all feedback on this build from the community here. A bit of a brain dump below with thoughts. I plan to keep everyone updated as I move along.
Baseline details:
1988 Trans Am 305 TPI with 700R4 transmission (I'm sure you have all the details on this but if you need more context on the stock setup let me know)
My initial thought was to build up the 305 as much as possible to keep this a "what could I have done with it in the 80's. After a few years of owning the car I decided to go for it and in the process of pulling the engine and looking at what I could accomplish decided to find a 3rd gen 350 block and just drop in and add your typical power adders. Meanwhile, a friend of mine had an older 350 block already bored over .030 available for free so I figured why not build out a 383 stroker and see what we can push for a still naturally aspirated street sleeper and show car. I've taken the block to my local machine shop to have it tested and inspected. The bore was taken to .040 over to clean up some surface pitting on the cylinder walls, but otherwise is ready to build up. I did not get anything else from the original motor, just the block. I'm at a point where I'm questioning whether anything from my 305 will be useable, so noting things below. If nothing transfers over to this build that's fine, I'm eyeing a V6 1996 manual Camaro for sale down the street, maybe I'll drop it in there but for now, I'll reassemble the 305 and shelf it. Where I get caught up is doing math then trying to match with parts, and going through everything what I have and what would be salvageable versus needing replaced.
Current State - Engine and trans are out, all suspension is off, rear end off, fuel tank dropped
Build Goals:
450HP (9.5:1-10.0:1)
500ft/lb torque
Streetable, no track expectations but maybe some day I'll go try something out for fun
Retain stock look (wheels and interior mostly)
Engine Details:
3970010 casting number
4-bolt main, 2-piece rear main seal
4.040 bore
9.025 deck (I need to call my shop back to confirm they didn't deck it yet for any reason, expect a cleanup pass for flatness)
Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit - I could use some advice here as I'm looking at available options, this is currently my only urgent item to get locked in so I can get it to the machine shop and finish assembly and any clearances. The rest I plan on doing myself.
Crankshaft Forged preferred, cast OK
3.75 Stroke
External balanced with flexplate and harmonic balancer - My 305 components won't work anyway
I-beam connecting rods - Forged, 5.700 length
4.040 pistons (flat -5cc dual vent)- Forged preferred, hypereutectic OK
10.0:1 target compression max, 9.5:1 minimum
Calculation:
788.2cc per cylinder
92.1cc clearance (72cc chamber+5.4cc gasket+19.7cc deck-5cc piston relief)
9.6:1 CR
Heads
195-200cc runner
72-75cc chamber
2.02/1.60
0.600 lift
Dart 200 heads but also have been looking at AFR 195 Eliminators and Trickflow 195 Super 23 (Trickflow seems to be out of stock until next summer?)
Camshaft - Recommendation here as well, my thoughts on target ranges
Roller with retrofit kit - block is pre-roller
Currently looking at K12-466-8 Comp Cam kit, but target ranges below
Advertised - 268-280
.050 Intake - 218-228
.050 exhaust - 220-232
LSA 112-114
Lobe intake - .310-.330
lobe exhaust - .315-.335
1.6 roller rockers
valve intake - .496-.528
valve exhaust - .504-.536
Powerband 2500-6000 RPM
Intake/Ignition/Fuel
Decision:
Holly Stealth Ram - keeps my 58mm throttle body, need to find the correct rails to support (can keep distributor?)
Holly Hi Ram - Need LS throttle body, comes with fuel rails, convert to coil per cylinder? Sure maybe I'll need a new hood for clearance...
Holly EFI Terminator X Universal
45-50lb/hr injectors
255 or 340 gal/hr fuel pump 43psi
Increase feed and return lines
Exhaust (open to changes)
I had previously purchased Summit shorty headers and Doug's D901 Y pipe
Flowmaster 2000125 Cat
Flowmaster 17234 Cat back
Transmission
My plan is to send my 700R4 out for a level 1 build. I would not be opposed to doing this myself but I have never worked on a transmission before. Worst case I have to buy another transmission if I blow it up or send it out later to get fixed?
2400-2600 stall converter
UMI torque bar and trans mount (purchased)
Rear End/Drivetrain/Wheels and Brakes
Hawks 8.8 rear end, 3.73 gearing, 33 spline true trac
Aluminum driveshaft, U-Joint OK?
Front Brakes - 140-11275-dr Wilwood (12.19 rotor, 4 piston) - Needs front spindle modification
Rear Brakes - 140-7141-dr Wilwood (12.19 rotor, 4 piston)
Stock master cylinder and booster?
Stock proportioning valve?
DOT3 or DOT5.1?
e-brake cable swap to LS/LT1
Stock wheels and we can discuss tires
Suspension
All UMI, fixed not adjustable rear end (purchased)
All UMI front end including cradle (purchased)
Frame Connector (purchased)
Bilstein rear shocks (purchased)
Need front strut replacements
UMI lower springs front and rear (purchased)
Other notables
AC delete with delete pully
Smog delete
Considering cruise delete
Stock steering shaft and gear box/pitman arm
Proforged steering rebuild kit (purchased)
aluminum radiator and dual fan
stock alternator and battery size
high flow oil filter (Melling M55)
stock starter
water pump (block is mechanical, convert to electrical with 305 close off plate)
I'm sure I'm missing something in the write up, feel free to make recommendations or comments

bk2life
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Quote:
what are your plans/driving style/track day or just cruisin around the neighborhood?Originally Posted by PhilZNutZ
I'm sure I'm missing something in the write up, feel free to make recommendations or comments
a sbc 383 is fun engine, but being the devils advocate and several Ls swaps under my belt, a used 6.0 with a cam will make your power goals and drive like stock with pretty decent fuel mileage, for the price of your machine shop fees.
I have gone the 383 route, still have it, pulled from the gta and put into a 1993 chevy truck, and in its place is a well built 5.3
just asking, i love both engines, and have a stroked bbc as well.
It really depends on your driving style and your over all goal.
--kiiller build plans thought, not guna lie
Quote:
a sbc 383 is fun engine, but being the devils advocate and several Ls swaps under my belt, a used 6.0 with a cam will make your power goals and drive like stock with pretty decent fuel mileage, for the price of your machine shop fees.
I have gone the 383 route, still have it, pulled from the gta and put into a 1993 chevy truck, and in its place is a well built 5.3
just asking, i love both engines, and have a stroked bbc as well.
It really depends on your driving style and your over all goal.
--kiiller build plans thought, not guna lie
Street driving, cruising, no track plans as of now. This is my fun car, I also have my daily driver and a 2015 Camaro SS. I'm really just using this as a toy, build it, tune it, drive for the summer on nice days (maybe a day at the track to see what it can do?) Then take it down over the winter and tweak it.Originally Posted by bk2life
what are your plans/driving style/track day or just cruisin around the neighborhood?a sbc 383 is fun engine, but being the devils advocate and several Ls swaps under my belt, a used 6.0 with a cam will make your power goals and drive like stock with pretty decent fuel mileage, for the price of your machine shop fees.
I have gone the 383 route, still have it, pulled from the gta and put into a 1993 chevy truck, and in its place is a well built 5.3
just asking, i love both engines, and have a stroked bbc as well.
It really depends on your driving style and your over all goal.
--kiiller build plans thought, not guna lie
You would be better off with an internally balanced setup. Then you don't need to worry about the less common externally balanced flywheel and harmonic balancer. Just my .02.
bk2life
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Quote:
.....and the balancer is thinner and it is MUCH easier to add an LS 0411 box and tune it with more modern tech then that old moates stuff.Originally Posted by z28cp
You would be better off with an internally balanced setup.





