OK, so I got it in the mail either Mon or Tues, bring it by my old high
school to install in on Wednesday (the auto teacher is wicked cool and lets
old students use the shop). Get it on, drive it home and the right tail pipe
is sagging, move it back up and drive back to the school to see some people.
Get there and its sagging again, start moving it around and boom, the
connection at the 2 piece of the downpipe falls out, and the passenger side tailpipe. So I wait around for a friend of mine that lives down the street to get home so we can jack it up and redo some of the work. We finally get it all done, no way in hell the downpipe is gonna fall out, and we thought we had the tailpipe taken care of. Halfway back to my house the tailpipe falls out in the middle of the road... So today I brought it down and got all the joints welded and that thing ain't going nowhere.

Overall, despite my little problems I like it. I thought there would be a bit more interior resonance, and a little bit louder at WOT but its still nice, at least its not deafening at idle.

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1986 LG4 Z28
6x9 Alpine's
2 MTX 10's run by 250W MTX amp
Soon to have Hooker Aerochamber cat-back
Soon to have a bra (gag! but the front paint is hurting bad)

ok that's weird... i have an edelbrock rpm series with the 2 piece that goes over the axle, i never had any problems with that.

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86 Camaro with 88 305 LB9 converted to carb, edelbrock performer manifold, S/R Torquer Heads, Hedman Headers, Crane Compucam 2032 edelbrock cat-back, gutted cat, slp underdrive pulley, mallory ignition, 305 h.o dual snorkel air cleaner, hypertech thermomaster chip,160 degree thermo, and fan switch, 5-speed, 3.23 posi

95 Beretta Z26, 3100 V6, 4 Speed auto, stock

That is odd. The only problem I had with mine is that the intermediate pipe sits on part of the rear suspension, but its not too bad other than that, I am very happy.

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Components, K&N Filters, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET : 14.3 @ 97mph
(corrected for elevation)

ok a couple of questions for you guys. I am definately going to get an exhaust system b4 winter. I am really psyched after hearing all this on Hooker AeroChamber system I have also been doing a lot of research here and through online stores. but where is the best place to get them online? and about how much did it cost i have seen a couple spots offer it for around $250 is this acout right for what everyone has paid for it!
Also for a 91 305 tbi...will it sound pretty nice. i know my car is not a "high performance" car but i would like it to sound nice. right now i think it is a stock replacelment which is very quiet. also, can i expect any performance gains, cause my car really doesn't have much pick up, would this improve anything slightly at least?

thankyou ahead of time if anyone responds, i really do take all advise from everyone seriously. thanks.. steve

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91 RS convertible
Check out my WiCkEd RiDe http://members.aol.com/wasboy1/cam.html
Break on the edgeCRUSHER!!

If you guy's read the instructions with the kit, it would have told you that you MUST get the pipes welded because Hooker uses thicker metal for the slip joints on the muffler that the clamps won't crimp!!!!!!!!!!!!

The real reason exhaust kits come with clamps, is just so you can keep it inplace until you get to the muffler shop to have it all welded. Exhaust systems should always be welded up. Otherwise, you will constantly be chasing stuff loosening up, not to mention carbon monoxide getting inside your interior.

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FORMULA 350 TK
Southern California 3rd Generation F-Body Organization©

Yeah, I know they tell you to get it welded and I realize the U clamps are only there for temporary, I got it all welded up a few days ago. Then for some reason or another it disconnected at the cat, the bolts just dissapeared, but that was an easy fix. It seems to be quieter now though... maybe just because it was so incredibly loud comming right out of the cat. I wish I could get away with it being that loud normally but I'd be getting noise pollution tickets left and right...

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1986 Z28 LG4 M5
Alpine 6x9's 2 10" MTX Thunder 4000's MTX Thunder 102 Amp Hooker Aero-Chamber Cat-Back

I found a way to fix this.. Go to walmart, get a 1+5/8" U bolt (3" long or so)... I put it in the hole on the muffler mounting thing (passenger side), and thru the lil mounting frob on the car frame. It's now not resting on the suspension, and only has like 1/8" of play, instead of a full inch before..

Works pretty damn well for a cheap fix.



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91 T/A 305
STB, Airfoil, Hooker cat-back, pseudo-cold air to K&N, Accel coil, !cat, !smog pump.
300 lb*ft of rice churning power.

No, welding is not absolutely necessary. If you hand tighten the clamp bolts, of course they will loosen over time. Instead, have them tightened with an impact wrench. That's what I did and I've had my exhaust for almost 2 years, and it hasn't moved.

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1985 Z28, Jasper Class 1 350, Edelbrock Performer intake, Dual snorkel air cleaner, K&N, Edelbrock headers, Catco 3" cat, Hooker 3" cat-back, Richmond 3.73's, Transgo shift kit, JET Stage 2 chip, Hypertech coil, Lakewood LCA's, Powertrax locker, SSM subframes, Centerline Auto Drag's

don't worry about the hooker cat back system being a little quite right now. Wait like 2 more months and it will get louder. And yes, get it welded (it will save you a lot time and trouble)

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Mods:Hooker Aerochamber 3" exhaust, gutted kitty,
March 2 piece underdrive pullies, smog pump gone,;these two made a very noticable difference.
14x4 K&N open air element filter-the best mod so far
Eibach springs with KYB's all around.
Appearance: Harwood cowl hood, Z-28 wing, painted black(7/20/00)-original color was light blue
*All these mods were made this year
Stock Options:117,000 miles on motor, 5spd, TBI, 305, T-tops
Run a best of 16.7 @85mph with traction problem. Have to try again sometime.