anybody out there running one? thinking of getting one but wondering if it helps any over the factory 3 inch. currenty running heddman shortys, custom Y pipe coverter delete 3 inch intermediate, crossflow flowmaster.

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88 irocz fresh 350 tpi eibach springs, weld draglites, 1 5/8 hedman shortys, march aluminium underdrive pulleys, T.B. coolant bypass, accel 300+ race wires, 180 thermostat, accel flow booster, 2 lower walls removed from stock uppper plenum, 700r4 with 2500 stall, B&M shift kit, corvette servo, kevlar frictions

 

your engine is still pretty much stock..the factory ~2 3/4" will do you just fine. It takes a pretty heavily modded engine to need a 4" exaust...like in the 12 sec+ territory.

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

 

yeah your right, but i'm going to get a new muffler anyways mine has to be like the first one flowmaster ever made. its all rusty and its starting to rattle inside. one more question guys. my brother and i just pulled the motor out of his 85Z28 LG4 5 speed, and dropped in a 350 flattop motor with 442 ported heads 284 xtreme energy cam, edelbrock performer rpm intake, holley 4150HP 750 carb, emmisions delete computer delete, it has dynomax shortys i put on it when i had the car, but the rest is stock except a flowmaster. it acts like it does't want to pull like it should above 3500. i think that small 2 1/4 pipe is killing it. any suggestions? thanks again

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88 irocz fresh 350 tpi eibach springs, weld draglites, 1 5/8 hedman shortys, march aluminium underdrive pulleys, T.B. coolant bypass, accel 300+ race wires, 180 thermostat, accel flow booster, 2 lower walls removed from stock uppper plenum, 700r4 with 2500 stall, B&M shift kit, corvette servo, kevlar frictions, K&N filters, emissions delete

 

That pipe may definatly have something to do with it...would certainly be the first thing I'd change.

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

 

That 4" Mufflex will be useless with under 400 horsepower and with 1 5/8" headers. All you'll do is lose most of your bottom end/torque. You may get a very slight horsepower increse, but nothing you'd ever feel as far as SOTP. I'd say overall, you'd lose power. Step up to 1 3/4" let's say, SLP's or long tubes, then go from there. Good luck!




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Dan Young
1995 Z28/M6
Groton, CT

1985 Z28/A4
(Prospective purchase)

 

A 12 second car needing 4". I don't think so. I see 9 and 10 second street cars with dual 3". They also use big blocks with 2 1/4" primaries.

Even a single 4" would be overkill unless you're pushing 600+hp. A 4" on a small block if it lives constantly above 4000 rpm maybe, but a street car rarly sees 5000 except in short bursts.

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Stephen's racing page

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley