Damn Edelbrock headers!
Damn Edelbrock headers!
I can't get the damn driver side header by the steering shaft, I unbolted it at the top & bottom, I marked the teeth at the bottom and yanked that side out first....
I can't get the top to budge...any advice?
I can't get the top to budge...any advice?
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,321
Likes: 4
From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
You should have only had to undo 1 bolt, split the shaft apart and move them out of the way enough to get the header down in there. I did that and bent the brake lines out of the way some then slid the header in place.
my edelbrocks JUST got here today, ...havent tried to install them yet though, ANY suggestions before i start on making it easier, ..how hhell do i get the passenger side factory headers off?! i cant ge to that bolt in the back....92 rs 305 tbi
feel lucky you got that far, wait til you try to undo the bolts holding the y pipe to the exhaust manifold...OWWW.....need i say more, ...looks like im taking the easy way out and paying someone to do it for 200 bucks. pain in the wallet but better than me trying for a week THEN getting someone to do it....ig ive up , ...good luck man
I actually broke the bolts on the manifolds...I'm about to give up too, but I already have the passenger side on, and it's really pissing me off that I'm going to have to take that off too...
serves me right for going "ah it cant be THAT hard" . looks like im paying 200 bucks to get em put on, ....ALMOST as much as the damn things costed...im gonna call around, ...let me know how it goes, ...if you get em on, or if you get them put on, how much they charge ya.
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Ah, I'm already stressed out about the whole damn deal, I already cut my f*cking y-pipe so I could fit the driver side header in (bought them from my engine builder) . I cut off about 6 inches of the y-pipe, with the intentions of being sneaky and having someone weld a small pipe back in place.
I wish I never started the damn project, now I'm going to have to take the passenger side header out & put the manifolds back on. Aaaah all that time and work, wasted.. grrr
I wish I never started the damn project, now I'm going to have to take the passenger side header out & put the manifolds back on. Aaaah all that time and work, wasted.. grrr
man i was SO close to cutting the pipe off, but tried to get the bolts off the y pipe first, and figured out i couldnt get em off, ..glad i thought some-what ahead. how long have you been working on it?
One night, the whole purpose of doing it myself was to save some $$, I could get the damn header in if I could move the damn steering shaft at the top & not just get it to pivot, I need like a half inch of room to get the friggen header down in there and I would be golden.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
If you take out the plugs, it makes it so much easier. I was takin off the heads a few weeks back. Couldn't get the damn driver side one out, took the plugs out and slid right out.
have you tried putting the headers in from the bottom of the car?? i heard taking the two front engine mount bolts off and jacking it up 2 inches clears out all problems, ...but to hell with me jacking up an engine. im not a REAL mechanic --laughs--
I did this install about a month ago on my GTA (edelbrocks). Pull your driverside valvel cover off. Slide the headers straight down. It works, I didn't even take my steering shaft off. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
i dont see how it could be that hard. you all must be doing something to make it hard. i installed my flowtech headers about 5 months ago and i did it pretty easily. this was the first time i had ever done headers. i drove the car up on ramps and got most of the hard bolts out from the bottom, then dropped the headers in from top. I dont know if youve already done this, but taking the alternator off will help too. but maybe its just the edelbrock design becuase my flowtechs where easy. dont give up. i would never pay 200 to get them installed. youve probably just overlooked something small. DO NOT PAY SOMEONE TO DO IT. just keep at it.
What drive ratchet are you using? I snapped off all of the bolts holding my y pipe on. Granted I am a bigger guy, but with a 1/2 inch breaker bar/ratchet my grandma could snap those exhaust manifold bolts off. If you are using a 3/8 ratchet try to get a hold of a half inch one. Also the valve cover removel on the driver side allowed me to put my Edelbrock header in without touching the steering shaft. Also make sure you install the O2 sensor after you put the header in. Just keep at it and you don't have to pay someone to do it. Good luck
I installed the TES on my 88 IROC.
The drivers side was easy, although I remember taking off the valve cover for clerance.
Passenger side was a pain, went from the bottom, I pushed that one in, had some issues with the frame being to close. I did not remove the starter or steering shaft.
The day before the install all hardware on the car was soaked with penetrating oil.
Good Luck
The drivers side was easy, although I remember taking off the valve cover for clerance.
Passenger side was a pain, went from the bottom, I pushed that one in, had some issues with the frame being to close. I did not remove the starter or steering shaft.
The day before the install all hardware on the car was soaked with penetrating oil.
Good Luck
Are the edelbrock headers year sensitive? Meaning certain years..yadda yadda.
I have an 88 with a rebuilt 87 305....maybe this is why the passenger side won't fit right?
I took the valve cover off, the steering shaft is just barely in the way..
I have an 88 with a rebuilt 87 305....maybe this is why the passenger side won't fit right?
I took the valve cover off, the steering shaft is just barely in the way..
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: Webster, MA
Car: 1982 Camaro Z28
Engine: Self-built 350
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/2800 Vigilante
Axle/Gears: Eaton 3.73 w/Moser axles
I would recommend PB Blaster over WD-40. I sprayed it on all of my manifold bolts a few times the day before I installed my headers this summer and had no problem removing any of the 20 year old manifold bolts.
Other notes: I ended up snapping the bolts on the old y-pipe flanges with an air ratchet. Didnt need them anyways. I also had to remove the drivers side valve cover to get the header to slide in. Took me about +/- 6 hrs with A/C and Smog equiptment removed.
EDIT: I had to remove the back passenger bolt from underneath. Dont forget to bend back the metal tabs that are on the sides of the bolt.
Other notes: I ended up snapping the bolts on the old y-pipe flanges with an air ratchet. Didnt need them anyways. I also had to remove the drivers side valve cover to get the header to slide in. Took me about +/- 6 hrs with A/C and Smog equiptment removed.
EDIT: I had to remove the back passenger bolt from underneath. Dont forget to bend back the metal tabs that are on the sides of the bolt.
Last edited by 82CamaroZ28; Nov 21, 2002 at 12:07 AM.
Well I just fudged around with it some more and I've come to the conclusion there is no way to get this header in without completely removing the steering shaft unless I get underneath and try stuffing it in that way...which I don't have enough room to do...
ok i just used damn near 2 cans of wd-40 and soaked my entire exhaust manifolds, and every other bolt from the exhaust manifold to the cat.. that thing is mor eoily than a mixicans hair
it had better be easier tomarrow or somthings getting broke !!! broken i tell you!
it had better be easier tomarrow or somthings getting broke !!! broken i tell you! Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Good grief folks!! This is not supposed to be that hard!
Have you tried putting the pry-bar to anything yet (like the steering shaft or just flexing the engine on the mounts)??? You can put some pressure on one or the other and gain a pretty decent amount of clearance if need be..... I mean if there is just a little bit of a clearance problem, you just gotta 'clearance' the stuff in the way.....
Also, the proper way to get the steering shaft out of the way is to take the upper through-bolt and out of the shaft and slide the shaft downward. The outer part of the area that the bolt went through is part of the lower shaft and the middle part is part of the steering column lower shaft. Throw some lubricant on the shaft with the bolt out and let it soak for a while. Then take the hammer to it with a pry-bar as a driver/punch and drive the lower shaft off and downward. The shaft will not be in your way at that point. The key to it is to lube it up if it is stubborn....
Do you have a service manual? There should be some illustrations for doing this in the steering section......
And breaking (or just removing) the old exhaust manifold or Y-pipe bolts shouldn't be an issue..... They either come out, or they break. Simple as that. If you haven't gotten one of those two options to happen yet, you gotta either find a friend that is much stronger than you, hit the gym and try again, or just try it again with more/better tools and the full intention of just wreckin stuff. They will come out one way or another..... And with the new headers and Y-pipe being a full system......... who cares!!! You won't need that crap ever again.
And remember, there is a benefit to doing this. You will pick up some power, make it sound meaner, and lighten the front of the car a bit with this mod. It is worthwhile and you (and your wallet) will thank yourself for sticking with it when it is all said and done.....
Have you tried putting the pry-bar to anything yet (like the steering shaft or just flexing the engine on the mounts)??? You can put some pressure on one or the other and gain a pretty decent amount of clearance if need be..... I mean if there is just a little bit of a clearance problem, you just gotta 'clearance' the stuff in the way.....Also, the proper way to get the steering shaft out of the way is to take the upper through-bolt and out of the shaft and slide the shaft downward. The outer part of the area that the bolt went through is part of the lower shaft and the middle part is part of the steering column lower shaft. Throw some lubricant on the shaft with the bolt out and let it soak for a while. Then take the hammer to it with a pry-bar as a driver/punch and drive the lower shaft off and downward. The shaft will not be in your way at that point. The key to it is to lube it up if it is stubborn....
Do you have a service manual? There should be some illustrations for doing this in the steering section......
And breaking (or just removing) the old exhaust manifold or Y-pipe bolts shouldn't be an issue..... They either come out, or they break. Simple as that. If you haven't gotten one of those two options to happen yet, you gotta either find a friend that is much stronger than you, hit the gym and try again, or just try it again with more/better tools and the full intention of just wreckin stuff. They will come out one way or another..... And with the new headers and Y-pipe being a full system......... who cares!!! You won't need that crap ever again.
And remember, there is a benefit to doing this. You will pick up some power, make it sound meaner, and lighten the front of the car a bit with this mod. It is worthwhile and you (and your wallet) will thank yourself for sticking with it when it is all said and done.....
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,321
Likes: 4
From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
It really isn't that hard to do
now a heater core on a ford taurus, that's hard
My headers slipped in with hardly any trouble. Passenger side air tube needed to be bent away from the valve cover and that's about it.
now a heater core on a ford taurus, that's hard
My headers slipped in with hardly any trouble. Passenger side air tube needed to be bent away from the valve cover and that's about it. I took the upper bolt off the steering shaft and tried removing the entire thing to no avail.
I didn't try pounding it off in fear of breaking it, but if I want to put this header in it looks like I dont have much of a choice now do I? I was trying to avoid that...
I didn't try pounding it off in fear of breaking it, but if I want to put this header in it looks like I dont have much of a choice now do I? I was trying to avoid that...
It has been a while but I don't remember it being difficult to install the Edelbrock headers at all.
I un did the steering shaft which is a pain but not real bad.
Also, I got 3 of the 4 flange bolts with wd-40. The 4th I couldn't budge. So I tightened till it snapped.
I later switched to SLP 1/3-4 which are physically larger. The headres went it easy but the Y-pipe was a ball buster.
Good luck. IMO the Edelbrocks sounded better than the SLP.
I un did the steering shaft which is a pain but not real bad.
Also, I got 3 of the 4 flange bolts with wd-40. The 4th I couldn't budge. So I tightened till it snapped.
I later switched to SLP 1/3-4 which are physically larger. The headres went it easy but the Y-pipe was a ball buster.
Good luck. IMO the Edelbrocks sounded better than the SLP.



