I'm trying to solve my rubbing header problem, and it seems like the only way to do it is to move the engine. I've tried the truck motor mounts and that didn't do anything.

There seem to be about three ways to do it, each with its own damn problems:

#1: Slide the whole engine to the passenger's side parallel to the bottom crossmember. This probably gains me the least amount of clearance of all the options. It will require custom motor mounts, because just pairing one tall and one short mount will rotate the engine. Will probably throw the driveline out of whack.

#2: Slide the engine to the passenger's side and up, parallel with the angled part of the crossmember. This will give me lots of clearance. However, the amount "up" is going to be determined by the amount "sideways". and raising things too far will totally screw up my STB and my hood clearance. Will probably throw the driveline even farther out of whack than option #1. However, I can do this without getting custom mounts.

#3: Rotate the engine around the crankshaft centerline. Advantage: Will not screw up driveline alignment. However, it will screw up my STB, my exhaust alignment, tranny alignment, and i don't think mr. carburetor will appreciate being ****ed at a 10 degree angle all the time. Oh, and it will of course require custom mounts.

Anyone got some opinions/suggestions?


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"Beware he who would deny you access to information, for in his heart, he dreams himself your master"

'84 Black Camaro ZZ4 M5 (V-6 in a former life) -- street beast
'91 Medium Blue Metallic Z28 A4 (UB-HSTRY's old ride) -- currently broken
'99 Navy Blue Metallic Firehawk #120 M6 (99.44% stock) -- daily driver

 

Two suggestions: (I assume the header is rubbing against the steering shaft)

One-make a "dimple" in the header which would give you enough clearance. The dimple should be about 1/4"...and you can spot weld it to ensure it doesn't crack.

Two-grind down the steering shaft a bit at the point where it rubs the header(actually, the point where it rubs is square so grind it to an oval shape).

Using either of these methods will not require remounting the engine in any way.

Hope this helps


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92 Camaro RS LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Performance:
SLP 1 3/4" Headers (Coated by Paul Barry Motorsports), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Fastchip Performance PROM, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Xact 8mm wires, Open Air Element w/K&N Filter, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
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