well im thinking about the slp 4 into 1's and im wondering if im going to have to pull the engine? or lift it at all or will they slide into place, also what is the estimated install time & difficulty? Will something need to be fabricated or should it be a bolt up in and out procedure

 

I would say it will take about a weekend and you don't need to jack the engine up unless your motor mounts are gone. Just jack the car up and have fun. It isn't really that hard just frustrating and time consuming, all you really have to do is undo bolts and then put it back together again. The only problem is most the bolts are either hard to get to or are rusted. Watch out for the sensors and try to salvage your dipstick, I bent the hell out of mine.

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'91 Z28 305, Auto trans, K&N filters, TPIS air foil, power pulleys, ported plenum, hypertech chip, hooker cat back, kyb shocks, STB, SLP 1 5/8" headers, catco 3" cat, 14.7@ 93 mph(need new times after exhaust)

[This message has been edited by Casey'91Z28 (edited June 17, 2001).]

 

So, how do i get these bolts out if they're siezed without any air tools?

 

I have installed a dozen or so header sets into Camaros and El Caminos. It seems that each install has their own peculiarites. It also seems to take me longer to remove the old stuff and install the new stuff. Use lots of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster on rusted or tight bolts. It takes me a weekend to do the complete job. Be sure you have all the tools you need, like sockets and wrenches and extensions etc.....

I usually take my time and set no time goals to finish up, that way you do the job once and it lasts. You shouldn't have to jack the motor, but you may have to undo the steering shaft to get the driver's side in. I had to remove the valve covers to get some more clearance on each side. Do you have a new y-pipe?

Do your best to get the dipstick out, even if you thrash it a new one is very cheap, like $10.

Be sure to put the o2 back in and protect the wire with some heat shielding tape or conduit. Also, if you have a 5-speed you may want to cover the plastic tube that connects the master to the slave cylinders on the driver's side. It may melt and/or burst if it's near the header tubes. My buddies tube burst the other day here in Tucson and caused a fire!! I protected mine thereafter and put a fire extinguisher in the car too.

You'll like the results!!

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Phil87IROC
Blue '87 IROC, 383 Crate Motor, KB pistons, AFR 190 heads, TPIS ZZ-9 cam, Edelbrock RPM intake, 1" TD spacer, Hooker SC/LT headers w/ Mufflex Y-pipe, Edelbrock 750 cfm Carb (#1411), Stock T-5, GM 3.42 gears w/Auburn posi.
Ohio Valley Dragstrip (KY) Trophy Bracket WINNER - 8.39 ET on a 1.82 sec. - 60'. Best MPH = 84.44. Still Tuning Carb!
Red '89 IROC L98, TES w/Flowmaster, 1LE DS, 700R4, T-Tops, K&Ns w/open air boxes, 160 T-stat, Hypertech Chip, gutted MAF & CAT, Jacobs Ign., 53kv coil, MSD wires.

[This message has been edited by Phil87IROC (edited June 17, 2001).]

 

how do i remove the steering shaft.>

 

omg ..... wow... bringing up a post after that person passes away is spooky...

Get a haynes or chiltons manual and they will tell you in there... im sure someone will help you, but for further reference, you cant go wrong with a service manual...

 

No kidding. That's kind of creepy.

 

Sorry didnt know.