my-self... With no experiance do you guys think i could pull this off myself...?

Im guessing i would need the car to be cool and something to put the car up on.... as well as the tools to remove and put on the new headers.... any other pointers..??

thanks

 

Give yourself lots of time an patience.

------------------
92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops

Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps, MacEwen white-face guages
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, 3.42 gears w/Torsen posi

 

Any other pointers?

[This message has been edited by 92Camaro305TBI (edited July 24, 2001).]

 

I am also looking for help, I have a 88 formula and I just bought some hooker headers shorty comp headers, I have little experience so I need all the help I can get..
thanks

 

be careful. Some of the Y-pipes like the one I got were about an inch to wide. I had to cut a 1" section out and weld them up. I've heard several other people on this board have the same problem. Other than that it is pretty simple as long as you have the tools.


James

 

As mentioned, lots of time and patience. Hope you got a good set of tools. Plan on having to do custom fabrication some where during the project. Hope you have a welder or know someone with a welder.

------------------
91 Z28 1LE 5.7 automatic
SLP headers, random technology cats, borla muffler, Accel 8.8 wires, Hotchkis STB

boycott Sam Pierce Chevrolet

 

hey let me know how it goes if you could I think I will be getting those headers for my car too.

 

well I pretty much suck and I did it. I took a weekend to do it, I think 13 hours total, maybe a little less. It is tricky. I broke 2 parts in the process also.

It feels great when you get them installed though.

The job is not hard, jsut time consuming.



------------------
89 camaro 305 tbi, flomaster 3 chamber cat back, gutted cat, Edlebrock TES Headers, Exhaust cutout, Edlebrock open element, 160 degree T-stat, and a Stage 2 FastChip.

2 kicker comp 12"'s, polk for the rest. Phoenix gold xs2300 to subs, kicker impulse 404XI to 4 speakers, pioneer DEH- P7000R head unit, and finally a 12 disc changer. Full leather interior from http://www.MrMikes.com

 

Thanks guys...

dtpmike, how did you get under the car...? what kind of ramps did you use.. if any at all..? just wandering..

Is there any brand that has better instructions than other or are they all the same...?? thanks..

 

The worst part of this job is the time. It is very straight forward and I would think just about anyone that can turn a wrench can do it. I have the Edelbrocks and I had absolutely no fit issues, everything went together very easily and lined up very well.

As far as putting your car up, use jack stands at a pretty decent height to give yourself some room. A good floor jack will be necessary for raising the car to place the stands underneath. A good set of tools is a must including standard and deep wall sockets in both metric and standard. You could just buy the ones you need (if you know for sure) but it is more economical to buy a set sometimes. You will need extensions of at least 6". Before you start (maybe two or three days prior) spray all the nuts and bolts to be removed with WD-40 or some other type of penetrating oil, it will help immensly if your exhaust has never been removed and help prevent broken parts.

You should have no problems doing it. Good luck.

Matt

------------------
irocet@hotmail.com

drive.to/Stang_Kilr

88 IROC-Z -- 350 L-98, 700R4, Flowmaster, Edelbrock Headers, Catco Cat, K&N, MAF Sceens Removed, Airfoil, March Pullies, Comp Cams Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Bosch Platinum Plugs, Accel 8.8 mm Wires, MSD 6AL, Hypertech Cap & Coil, Hypertech Chip, Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace

 

on mine i put shorty headers on it pretty easily. i got the drivers side in from the top, and the passenger side in from the bottom. i got it done in about 4.5 hours with no broken bolts. i then drove to the exaust shop with open headers. that is the fun part

 

best advice is to be organized. Get a box to put all your parts in. I guess you could use ramps. I have a set, but I figured it would be easier to get under the car with jackstands and not big bulky ramps.

The only problem I had was on the last bolt on the Passenger side manifold and header. I think I went out and bought a special wrench that would squeeze in there. The job gets frustrating, so you must take breaks or youll go insane.

 

I have another question,,,.. Where is the o2s. I thought it was in the exhuast manifold or somewhere to read the exhaust... If so is that a problem or is just like a lil senor i can plug in and out of the headers... Not quiet sure where it is exactly and dont want to remove it and have a code while im driving or a no start ecuase of it .. thanks

 

The O2 sensor is screwed into the drivers side exhaust manifold toward the front of the car (stock) down towards where the manifold bolts to the y-pipe. My Edelbrocks moved the O2 sensor to the back of the header and actually in a much easier location in my opinion. The O2 sensor just screws into a threaded piece welded to the manifold or header. My old one didn't want to come out, so I just left it until I put my headers on and put a new one in then. It is very simple to do. Make sure it has anti-sieze on the threads (the kind that is safe for electrical equipment), although my Bosch unit came with anti-seize on it. One last thing, Edelbrock provided an extension for the the sensor cable so it was not an issue moving it to the back side of the header. Hope that helps a bit.

Matt

------------------
irocet@hotmail.com

drive.to/Stang_Kilr

88 IROC-Z -- 350 L-98, 700R4, Flowmaster, Edelbrock Headers, Catco Cat, K&N, MAF Sceens Removed, Airfoil, March Pullies, Comp Cams Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Bosch Platinum Plugs, Accel 8.8 mm Wires, MSD 6AL, Hypertech Cap & Coil, Hypertech Chip, Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace

 

I was looking at the edelbrock site and saw the TES's... Which one will fit my setup... I was thinking the 2 1/4 in outlet.. but I didnt know if I could fit the 3in---->If i did im guessing I would need cat and back 3in... ???

IROC, Z-28, Formula 86-90 5.0/5.7L T.P.I. , 3" inlet slip-on single cat.
#6872* #6872* - - -

RS & Formula 88-92 5.0L T.B.I., 2-1Ž4" inlet slip-on cat.
#6875* #6875*

Thanks guys... as soon as I get the ones i want ill get to use this advise....


------------------
92 Camaro 305 TBI Automatic
2.5 high flow cat, 2.5 pipes, 3.5in tip
shift kit
Tinted windows(legal)
Spark plug wires and plugs...
14X3 O.E. K&N Filter

Future mods.
Headers
any other advise on getting to 300+ HP would be appreciated. Thanks

11.0 Et @64mph on the 1/8 reaction time was 1.0+ with a 60ft at 2.5?(First run ever, didn't know which light to go on)
---------
System = Sony explode 5000 CD/MD receiver
Rockford 6x9 Fanatics
Rockford 4x6 Fanatics
Rockford 2 12" Hx2's
Rockford 1 farad cap
Rockford 800x2 Amp
Custom box
4gauge wire kit

 

Anyone?

 

This is something that I wrote for a friend to help him put on a set of Edelbrock TES on a '90 IROC. I installed the SLP headers on my car and installed the TES on my brothers MonteCarlo. He had the dual cat setup so that is why I say I would have switched to the single cat y-pipe and just removed the cat. If you want to use ramps you need the brand called Rino Ramps. They are made of a rubber/plastic that is very strong. You need these special ones because the angle of inclination is not as sharp and allows the car to drive up without scraping the gfx on the ramp and moving them. Get yourself the 3in system and a 3in catback at the SAME TIME. You will be happier that you did upgrade to the larger size in the long run. I am currently running the SLP 1 3/4 headers and a Hooker 3in catback. My friend is running the TES and an Eledbrock catback.
Well here we go:

Well if it was my car I would have bought the headers for the single 3in cat and converted so it would come with the mandrel bent y pipe then I would have the shop make me a "test pipe" to go in place of the cat. Like I have with the SLP's . Just have the muffler shop do the pipe and get yourself some "test pipes" to go in the place of the cats.
Before you install anything take a good look at how everything is connected. That way it will be easier to put back together, maybe even take pictures if your forgetful . Be sure to note the orentation of the alternator and A/C brackets(LABLE THEM) and smog pump tube routing. Get a jar of antiseize, 12pt wrenches NOT 6pt, 12pt sockets in 3/8 and 1/2 drive, a 1/2 and 3/8 drive breaker bars, swivles for both drives, extensions of all lengths, 2 cans of penetrating oil, a Sawsall with metal cutting blades, a good hydralic jack and jack stands, new cut to fit plug wires with ALL 90 degree boots, new plugs, new O2 sensor, Made For You centerbolt wire looms (very nice product), and a buddy to help you.

A day or 2 before you start, get the penetrating oil and soak ALL bolts about 3 times a day till the day you begin; manifold, collector, cat, hanggers, and muffler clamps. Before you do anything be sure to disconnect the battery FIRST. You do this because when you drop the header in on the passenger side it comes real close to the starter and will short if it comes in contact with the BAT terminal. Now jack the car up as high as you can and support with jackstands. Unbolt the y-pipe and cats. Start on the driver side and pull the plug wires and remove the manifold bolts you soaked in penetrating oil, and accessary brackets. 6 bolts and it will pull out from the top. On the passenger's side remove the smog pump diverter valve, plug wires, and the rest of the manifold bolts. If at all possible just unbolt the dipstick and leave it in place, just bend it out of the way when necessary. 6 bolts and the manifold will pull out from the top. Back to driver side, unbolt the steering shaft and put aside, pull out old plugs but DO NOT install the new ones. To move the steering shaft remove the bolt in the middle and slid the telescoping shaft in on itself and then it can be pushed out of the way. Coat all the new header bolts in antiseize and don't forget the lock washers, thread the back one in with the gasket on. Slip the header in from the top on the last bolt and line up the gasket and start the rest of the bolts EXCEPT the front 2 bolts. Keep header loose and install new plugs. Torque the bolts as tight as you can with whatever tool is easier: ratchet or wrench. Then reconnect the steering shaft. The reason you install the new plugs AFTER the header is on is to avoid breaking them as the header drops in. Back to passenger side, there is a solid coolant line running along the frame rail locate that line and unbolt the anchor for it so you can move it back and forth slightly. This is only to gain additional room if you are using 1 3/4 headers. Thread last bolt with gasket in and slip header in from the top, it will go in easier if you start it as far forward toward the raidator as possible. With all bolts in loosely except the first 2, install the NEW plugs and then torque the header bolts remembering the lock washers. After both sides are in reinstall the A/C bracket(HOPE YOU LABLED IT) using the supplied long spacer and longer bolt and lock washer locating which of the front 2 empty bolt holes it lines up with. Loosely place it on the A/C and header and torque it as tight as possible then reinstall a bolt in the empty hole. Do the same on the driver side for the alternator. Now bend the dipstick back so it lines up with any manifold bolt hole, you may need to use the shorter of the spacers for it to fit. Remove bolt and attach dipstick tube. Install the Made For You wire looms to the back 3 valve cover bolts and then connect one pluge wire at a time routing it through the wire looms and then cut to fit. Do not do the front 2 plugs yet. Be very careful to keep the plug wires off the headers at all costs. After the back 2 plug wires are routed reinstall the smog pump and then route the front 2 plug wires around the smog pump and cut to length. Reroute/reconnect all smog pump hoses and check fan switch sensor wire. Install the Made For You wire looms on the back 3 valve cover bolts on the driver side and route the plug wires in a similar manner. Reroute/reconnect all smog pump hoses and check guage sensor wire.

Now loosely assemble y pipe covering all bolts in antiseize. Install dougnuts on pipe and install loosely on car. Install NEW O2 sensor in bung on driver side header from underneath using antiseize on threads, DO NOT overtighten.

Now for the catback: lower the front and jack up the rear and secure THE BODY on jack stands letting the rear hang. If you do not know how give me a call and I will come over, check your email for number. Get out the Sawsall and cut the over the axle pipe, unbolt all hangers, and muffler clamps and remove. Install the new catback using antiseize on all bolts and pipe slip fit connections. Route the intermediate (long) pipe over the axle and clamp to the over the axle (curved) pipe loosely. Hang rear of pipe and have a friend hold the muffler in place as you install the tail pipes and hangers. Keep all connections loose but snug. Install cats/"test pipes" and line every thing up to maximize ground clearence and rear axel/suspension travel. Readjust tail pipes so they are straight and torque all clamps and hangers. Recheck all connections, hoses, and plug wire routing and reconnect the battery. Start her up and enjoy the sound!!!!!!!!! Go for a drive and listen for any banging of the exhaust on the underbody, have a friend come along and listen to pinpoint the source of the sound. More than likely the exhaust will need adjusting. If all is well have fun and enjoy!!!!!!!!!



[This message has been edited by Like a ROC 89 (edited July 27, 2001).]

 

Man thats some d*mn good info!!! Thanks,, It should be in the tech Artical... Im going to print it out. They were the 1 3/4 So Ill go with those and 3in pipes..... Guess I can use my old pipe and cat for my v6 Once again thanks .. This is why I like this board.....