Catback- Weld or bolt???
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Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,712
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From: Midwest City, Oklahoma
Car: '87 Z
Engine: 355 in the works
Transmission: 700R4
Catback- Weld or bolt???
My catback should get here this week, I was wondering what you guys prefer, welding or bolting the catback together? I would weld it but I don't have the tools, and if you need to take it apart later you don't have to ruin $300+ catback by cutting it apart. What do you guys suggest?
Weld. It'll keep the cat-back intact longer. You also don't have to worry about the clamps hitting the ground, if ground clearance is a problem.
If you can find a good exhaust system, it's still pretty cheap. Expect to pay $15 to $20 per round.
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No guts, no glory.
If you can find a good exhaust system, it's still pretty cheap. Expect to pay $15 to $20 per round.
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No guts, no glory.
yea weld it if you can, even if you do have to remove it, you can always weld it back together, if you have to
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Trent
---Car---
89 Firebird/305 L03 TBI A4/t-tops
Open Element Edelbrock Aircleaner w/ K&N air filter/Summit Chrome Valve Covers
Edelbrock TES headers 3" out/flowmaster American thunder 3" exaust/Catco cat
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Pioneer DEH-P730 Premium
Infinity 2way 4652 4x6's/Pioneer 4way ts-a6985 6x9's
profile cl640 110x4
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Trent
---Car---
89 Firebird/305 L03 TBI A4/t-tops
Open Element Edelbrock Aircleaner w/ K&N air filter/Summit Chrome Valve Covers
Edelbrock TES headers 3" out/flowmaster American thunder 3" exaust/Catco cat
---Stero---
Pioneer DEH-P730 Premium
Infinity 2way 4652 4x6's/Pioneer 4way ts-a6985 6x9's
profile cl640 110x4
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,366
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From: Atlanta, GA, US of A
Car: 94 Z28
Engine: LT1 w/ headers, catback, CAI, tune
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23s
I didn't weld up the cat-back on my 87Z (hooker aerochamber) and everything it's been fine for over a year so far. No problems.
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Ray87Z
-Vortec headed 350.
86 IROC w/ a cammed 305 TPI.
Formerly Ray86IROC.
www.inter-scape.com/Ray
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Ray87Z
-Vortec headed 350.
86 IROC w/ a cammed 305 TPI.
Formerly Ray86IROC.
www.inter-scape.com/Ray
Weld it. Much cleaner installation. What reason would you ever have to take it apart? It's not in the way of anything under the car. If it was, simply unbolting it from the cat should give you room for pretty much any job under the car. For the fuel pump or any related job, you'd just unbolt the two hangers and the whole thing would pull right out the back of the car.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 0
From: Midwest City, Oklahoma
Car: '87 Z
Engine: 355 in the works
Transmission: 700R4
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jza:
Weld it. Much cleaner installation. What reason would you ever have to take it apart?</font>
Weld it. Much cleaner installation. What reason would you ever have to take it apart?</font>
My hooker system is all clamped on. It doesnt leak or move so what's the difference? It is only one spot over the rear anyway (and on the muffler) so its not like you can see it easily. My vote goes to clamp for ease of possible repair. I cant really see how one could manipulate the system too much with just the cat disconnected.
I guess if you are obsessive then go have it welded up, otherwise I think clamps work fine.
peace
I guess if you are obsessive then go have it welded up, otherwise I think clamps work fine.
peace
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,266
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From: Tallahassee, FL. USA
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Crate Motor
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73
I've always replaced my own exhaust at home with clamps, but the first place I drive is to a muffler shop to have it welded up.
-Rich-
-Rich-
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