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Old Apr 4, 2003 | 03:02 AM
  #51  
1MEAN92RS's Avatar
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From: Blacksburg, VA
Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
This next shot shows the passenger side exhaust hanger. This side is a biggie. The original exhaust hanger was just a flat piece of steel that slid through a rubber mount attached to the body via some 1/2" bolts. The best thing I found to do is to get rid of the original mount completely (save the bolts) and go to your local parts store and buy some ordinary exhaust hangers with swivel mounts. Typically these mounts would be secured with muffler clamps but to work best with the cat-back mounts I decided to modify the mounts by drilling out the back to accept some 1" long 9/16 headed bolts. Make sure you use a lock washer or thread locker here. As for where it attaches to the body, you will have to bend the mount. Not only will this determine the height of your exhaust, but it's adjustability from front to back. There isn't a lot of room for error here. Too far back and the axle hits the I-pipe. Too far forward and the I-pipe will rattle on the frame. Make sure to spend the time to get this one right. To get the best alignment without wearing out my arms holding the muffler up there I just shimmed the muffler up from the ground using some wood blocks until I got it where I needed it and then attached it.
Attached Thumbnails hooker cat-back-exhaust-passide-hanger.jpg  
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Old Apr 4, 2003 | 03:06 AM
  #52  
1MEAN92RS's Avatar
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From: Blacksburg, VA
Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
The driver's side hanger is MUCH easier. Same principals apply. On this side I had to cut some of the hanger off so it would not overlap the fuel tank heat shield. You can see much better in this pic where I had to drill the exhaust hanger and the bolt that I used to attach it. One VERY IMPORTANT note... DO NOT tighten the tailpipes completely before you bolt up the exhaust! You will need this adjustability to center the muffler and to set your tips right.
Attached Thumbnails hooker cat-back-hooker-drvside-hanger.jpg  

Last edited by 1MEAN92RS; Apr 4, 2003 at 03:12 AM.
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Old Apr 4, 2003 | 03:18 AM
  #53  
1MEAN92RS's Avatar
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From: Blacksburg, VA
Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
This is where the I-pipe would ordinarily attach to the cat. As mentioned before, I got the cheaper 16822 exhaust and had the flange cut off and the pipe opened to 3" O.D. to accomidate my cat delete/exhaust cutout "off road" pipe.
Attached Thumbnails hooker cat-back-cat-delete.jpg  
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Old Apr 4, 2003 | 03:25 AM
  #54  
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From: Blacksburg, VA
Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Any questions about the Hooker 16822 or Hooker 2055s? Ask me here or PM me!

Later,
Harry
Attached Thumbnails hooker cat-back-underhood-drvside1.jpg  

Last edited by 1MEAN92RS; Apr 4, 2003 at 03:29 AM.
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Old Apr 4, 2003 | 11:20 AM
  #55  
kjgroen's Avatar
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 419
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From: Parkersburg, IA, U.S.
Car: Trans Am
Engine: L69
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Hi, 1MEAN92RS that is great info! You have a nice car, good job on the catback install.. Kevin
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Old Apr 9, 2003 | 04:15 AM
  #56  
1MEAN92RS's Avatar
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From: Blacksburg, VA
Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
One additional note on the install... Although this is a "bolt in" kit you will need to (just as the instructions say) weld it ASAP. I failed to mention this in my previous posts and did not want to give the impression that you could get away without it.

Later,
Harry
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Old Apr 9, 2003 | 07:34 PM
  #57  
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From: NJ fo0
Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by 1MEAN92RS
One additional note on the install... Although this is a "bolt in" kit you will need to (just as the instructions say) weld it ASAP. I failed to mention this in my previous posts and did not want to give the impression that you could get away without it.

Later,
Harry
damnit...that just adds to the price
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 01:12 AM
  #58  
1MEAN92RS's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 731
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From: Blacksburg, VA
Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Trans_AM_88
damnit...that just adds to the price
Yeah, I know. I haven't done it to mine, and haven't had any problems as yet. That was meant more as a disclaimer... just in case, ya know. Didn't mean to freak you out. I don't think it will need welding, but I'm watching it closely for a while since the instructions say to eventually weld it. I'll let you know if anything changes.
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Old Apr 10, 2003 | 10:41 AM
  #59  
RegaPlanet's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 859
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From: Ontario
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 406
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42s
I just bought the Hooker 16822 cat-back myself and got it at an awesome price!!!

EBAY!
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Old Apr 13, 2003 | 03:57 PM
  #60  
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From: NJ fo0
Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by RegaPlanet
I just bought the Hooker 16822 cat-back myself and got it at an awesome price!!!

EBAY!
'

bitch, you out bidded me by 2.5 bucks i was at work when you jumped in

its all good tho

well, im STILL thinking of what i should get. i almost convinced myself to get just the aero chamber muffler, but now im back to wanting to get the kit.

i was thinkin...1MEAN92RS you said the cheaper hooker cat back (16822) had a oval shaped i-pipe at the spot where the cat joins up, right? can you get high flow cats that can fit with that same shape? if so, id get on of those cats and then the cheaper (16822) kit...

edit: BTW, my y-pipe is 3" and my i-pipe is 2 1/2"

Last edited by Trans_AM_88; Apr 13, 2003 at 04:08 PM.
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Old Apr 13, 2003 | 07:51 PM
  #61  
RegaPlanet's Avatar
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From: Ontario
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 406
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42s
are you serious??? haha sry ... if I knew it was a fellow thirdgen'er I wouldn't have snipped in like that.
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Old Apr 13, 2003 | 08:28 PM
  #62  
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From: NJ fo0
Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by RegaPlanet
are you serious??? haha sry ... if I knew it was a fellow thirdgen'er I wouldn't have snipped in like that.
yup...lol. its ok though, i dont really think i want that kit anyway. hope you have fun with it
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Old Apr 14, 2003 | 08:58 AM
  #63  
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From: NJ fo0
Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
so...1MEAN92RS you said the cheaper hooker cat back (16822) had a oval shaped i-pipe at the spot where the cat joins up, right? can you get high flow cats that can fit that oval shape? if so, id get on of those cats and then the cheaper (16822) kit...

basically what i need is a cat that will have a 3" inlet and an outlet that can fit the i-pipe in the hooker cat back from Jegs. $205.99 (p/n 520-16822) HERE

Last edited by Trans_AM_88; Apr 14, 2003 at 09:08 AM.
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Old Apr 14, 2003 | 07:24 PM
  #64  
Trans_AM_88's Avatar
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From: NJ fo0
Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
ok forget it. i'll get the hooker #16823 cat back(HERE). and since my cat is 2.5" out ill have to get a new one cat. so how long does the cat have to be?

i found some catco cat's at summit but they have different lengths:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=CTO%2D6007 - 46.39 - 14" long

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=CTO%2D2607 - 80.39 - 16 1/2" long

i need air for emission so no air is unacceptable. if you guys know of any other highflow cats that are cheaper SHIPPED then lemme know


after i get this i will NOT be welding it. so the new cat and the new hooker cat-back have to get along . thats the part i dont know, and where i need your help. thanks

Last edited by Trans_AM_88; Apr 14, 2003 at 07:32 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2003 | 02:53 PM
  #65  
TransAm12sec's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,076
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: LG4
Transmission: 200C
Axle/Gears: 3:73
That’s probably the cheapest cat you can find. I've seen them go for 1-3 hundred.
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