Trans_AM_88

anyone have this? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6682&view=2047

it's the Hooker Super Competition Cat-Back Exhaust system, im liking mark shields' sound clip of his hooker exhaust and i've only heard good things about them.

i was also wondering if i i put this in my '88 trans am 350 TPI, do i need any additional parts? i never replaced an exhaust system before so i want to make sure i got everything. and can this even be done by myself? or does the pieces have to be welded together?

thanks

Mark A Shields

Only other thing I can think of is a passenger side exhaust hanger.

Trans_AM_88

what is that exactly? and where can you get it

Ray87Z

I also have that catback and love it. Only complaint is it didn't come with a passenger side hanger. What did you do with your's Mark? Mine is jury rigged, I need to redo it correctly.

Trans_AM_88

so basically i can rip everything out after my cat and install the hooker cat back?

do i need to get anything welded?

Ray87Z

No, you don't have to weld anything.

1MEAN92RS

If you are gonna get a high flow (non direct fit) cat you might as well save some $$$ and order p/n 16822. It's usually $75 less than the TBI and TPI versions and the only difference is the cat flange which is quickly removed with a sawzall You'll just have to round it out a bit. I took mine to an exhaust shop today to have it flared to 3" ID so it can accept my cat delete pipe.

Trans_AM_88

whered you see it for $75 less? i am planning on getting like a catco high flow cat or something similar. what do you mean by non direct fit? i was planning on getting a 3" in/out cat, would that not work?

1MEAN92RS

Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear on this one. I'm talking about the hooker cat-back... not the cat itself. What I was saying was If you order the p/n 16822 cat-back you can save about $75 over the TPI, the one you were looking at (p/n 16823), and TBI versions of the cat-back. The flange on the 16822 cat-back is different than on the other versions (this is the only difference). If you have this flange cut off and the I-pipe (intermediate pipe - the piece that goes from the cat to just over the axle) end expanded to 3" I.D. (which should cost < $20) then you can save even more money by purchasing a universal fit 3" O.D. in/out cat. This is assuming that you have a 3" y-pipe Does all that make sense now?

Later,
Harry


Damn, I sure do like to use the ( ) a lot :lala: :lala:

Trans_AM_88

AHHH ok ok i get ya now. well that seems like a real good idea, assuming i can get the i-pipe expanded. i guess i could just take it to midas or similar? and yeah i need to check if i have a 3" y-pipe (just got the car about 3 weeks ago, havent had a chance to lift it up)

also, where did you see it cheaper? i tried that part number on summit racing but nothing came up..

thanks for the response

1MEAN92RS

It's on back-order at Summit. $207.95 (p/n hok-16822) It has been on back-order ever since I can remember.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...rchType%3DBoth

I got mine from Jegs. $205.99 (p/n 520-16822) It was here in TWO DAYS!!!

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...29&prmenbr=361

Shipping is free from both Summit and Jegs, but either way there will be about a $5 oversive charge and $7 or $8 handling fee. My total came to $215.97 shipped, but they have since raised the price at Jegs by $5.

To have the flange from the I-pipe cut off and my niffty cat delete/exhaust cutout pipe made was $58 at my local United Muffler. That might sounds steep, but consider that a cutout from Summit is $27 + I would still have to have a piece fabbed up to connect it between the Y and I pipes, so I think I came out about even there. 3" pipe is EXPENSIVE. Don't ask me, I can't figure it out either, but you can figure on ANY exhaust shop charging you double what it would cost to have the same thing made in 2.5" pipe. But you aren't doing a cat delete so I will stop rambling now Midas and Monroe, or any big chain for that matter, are gonna be less likely to do custom work like cutting the flange off and making it 3" I.D. They make the big bucks off the parts that they sell you and could give a rat's *** about custom work like that. Check around and get some names. I bet there is a shop near you that might not have a fancy logo, but does great custom work.

kjgroen

is this a (p/n 520-16822) 3 inch catback with 2.5 outs the only thing i dont like it the tips..Thanks Kevin

1MEAN92RS

Yes, 3" I-pipe, 2.5" duel tailpipes out of the muffler.

kjgroen

ok, thank you!! Kevin

1MEAN92RS

I will have pics of my install up in a few days if anyone wants a look. Now I know why exhaust shops charge such high prices. It takes forever to get all that stuff aligned right. I will explain everything I had to do when I get the pics back and scanned.

Trans_AM_88

thanks for the help 1MEAN92RS, i appreciate it.

hell yeah, the cheaper kit sounds like a great idea.

just one question. on hookers product page they list the 16822HKR kit with a 3" I.D. i-pipe. why would i have to get that expanded to fit universal 3" cats?

thanks again

1MEAN92RS

The flange on this cat-back is oval in shape, that's why you have to modify it slightly... I really wish I had before and after pics... I don't think I took any of the flange before I had it rounded out. If you aren't into fabrication and/or frustration with this sorta thing and just want to bolt it right up, saving the $75 may not be worth it to you and you may just wanna go with a direct fit cat and cat-back. I was just trying to save you a little $$$.

Trans_AM_88

i would like to save the extra $75 since i'm short on cash already...you think maybe i could just hacksaw off the flange and then squish the i-pipe into a round shape?

Mark A Shields

Check your email, I'm most likely selling my cat-back, with a cat.

Trans_AM_88

oh yeah? how come you're selling it? IM me on aim if you wanna talk...

Trans_AM_88

YGM

Trans_AM_88

did you get any pics yet?

1MEAN92RS

I should have them tonight (sunday night). THis stuff of getting off work at 4:00 a.m. is killing me. I got the pics of my header install back today, but not the pics of the cat-back install. You can see the headers if you want

Trans_AM_88

sure, post 'em up

Trans_AM_88

i was talkin to my dad about getting the cheaper kit that needs the i-pipe fabbed up for a 3" out cat so it fits my car. he said that probably not to many shops have the "special" machine needed to do it, and he said if they did, it would cost more than what i would save by not getting the kit that fits my car out of the box. is he right?

Mark A Shields

You mean a machine for mandrel bending? Then yes, I called the other day to get a y pipe fabbed up, but no shops around can mandrel bend their own pipes.

Oh, BTW, I'm keeping my cat-back on , sorry.

1MEAN92RS

Here are the headers... nice and coated The y-pipe is the real gem of the Hooker 2055s. I was hoping to both have my car running and to have the cat-back pics back today, but neither have happened.

I was REALLY happy to see these on my doorstep

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/hanester/boxes.jpg

The most brilliant piece of the Hooker 2055 headers...

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/hanester/coated-Ypipe.jpg

The driver's side went in nice and easy. Only problems were re-routing the hookup for the O2 sensor and the #7 plug. Next time I will buy the shorty plugs for headers.

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/hanester...drv%20side.jpg

I didn't have to lift the motor to get the passenger side in, but once I got them in on the test fit I couldn't get them out

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/hanester...***-header.jpg

A shot of them before I put 'em on the ol' 305.

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/hanester/coated.jpg

I'll have the exhaust/cat-back pics up tomorrow for sure.

Trans_AM_88

thats ok, i kinda made up my mind about getting a new one anyway

i didnt mean a mandrel bend (unless i need that too, but i dont think so) but i was referring to what 1MEAN92RS mentioned before about cutting off the flange from the i-pipe and getting the end expanded into 3". supposedly the i-pipe right now is an oval shape? or thats what i gathered...

Trans_AM_88

wow man, really nice. wish i had the money for those

whatd that cost you, about ~$500?

1MEAN92RS

There is no "special" machine for it. All they have to do is cut the original flange off and flare the I pipe from the oval shape to 3" I.D. Should take less than 5 minutes and cost no more than $10 to $20 at the most. Every exhaust shop could do it, but most national chains will either decline to do the work (unless they can sell you something else) or charge you an arm and a leg for it. I have never heard of an exhaust shop that will not work with 3" pipe because they don't have the equipment.

Trans_AM_88

hey 1MEAN92RS, thanks a lot man youve been very helpful here i appreciate it.

just wondering...is the entire i-pipe an oval shape? or is it just that part by the flange?

im like 90% sure im getting this cat-back. just gotta get my next paycheck and order it cant wait!

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

the only part that has the oval pipe is where the cat connects and goes to a 45* bend and then into the long staright pipe back to the backend of the car. id say there is about 1' of oval pipe.

now here is what 595.00 from jethot can get ya but forget about doin a plain old stock exuast system

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

heres my hooker catback on, well the tips atleast

1MEAN92RS

Well, here you go:

$215.97 - Hooker Cat-back from Jegs
$523.00 - Jet Hot sterling coated Hooker 2055 headers
$ 58.00 - Cat Delete/Exhaust Cutout pipe from United Muffler
$ 20.89 - Flowtech dead-soft aluminum collector gaskets for cutout
$~30.00 - Napa center bolt valve cover gaskets
$ 2.99 - 3" Muffler clamp
$ 11.98 - 2 swivel exhaust hangers
$ 1.69 - 2 1/2" pipe caps for AIR injection tubes
$ 3.23 - 1 can Duplicolor "chevy orange" engine enamel
$ 30.29 - Accel Super Stock 8.0mm Universal cut-to-fit wires
$ 4.34 - Various nuts, bolts, and washers
$ 51.94 - Made for You Chevy centerbolt wire looms

$954.32 - Subtotal

+~$110.00 - McCord Powerplate electronic exhaust cutout (this will be added in a month or so)

$1164.32 - TOTAL

I had no idea I had spent that much money!!! It all adds up so quick, but I can't really say that I could have done without any of the extras I bought except the paint for my valve covers. The LAST thing I wanted was to burn those new wires on the headers or to get oil on them from my leaky valve covers, so the wire looms and gaskets were a must too. I could have gotten some cheaper collector gaskets for my cutout. I winced when I saw that they were $20, that was the only part that hurt, the rest was well worth it.

1MEAN92RS

Correct, the only part that is oval is right at the flange... about 3 inches of the pipe behind the flange and that is all. REALLY easy for any exhaust shop to take care of.

Trans_AM_88

sweet looking setup Timz2882. got any sound clips yet?

Trans_AM_88

ok guys i kind feel now...i FINALLY got a good chance to look at my exhaust setup under my car. i took some measurements and well, i was kinda surprised. i have dual 3" turndowns, 3" i-pipe, and looks like a 3" y-pipe. none are madrel bent however. i was sorta expecting a smaller i-pipe and definatly smaller outs. so now im kinda wondering if i really even need a whole new cat-back? i know non-mendral bends are a bit contricting, but is is really that bad? maybe i should just get a new muffler and tips...i dont know im pretty confused now

when i bought this car a month ago it came with a reciept of stuff the guy put into it. one line reads "exhaust cat-back installed - $199" is it worth getting a whole new cat-back? that cat-back was installed on 02/07/01. what do you guys think?

Mark A Shields

Then most likely the cat-back is 3'' and mandrel bent. There aren't too many ones out there that are aftermarket and not 3'' or not mandrel bent.

Trans_AM_88

so do you think it's still worth getting a new mandrel bent cat-back?

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

no not any sound clips yet. im waittin till i do the headers and exuast in like 2 weeks and they ill try to

Trans_AM_88

lemme know when you get them

they are NOT mandrel bent...there are nasty wrinkles all over the place




so whats the verdict guys? should i get the hooker cat back?

Trans_AM_88

what the hell is up with all these "HITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHERE"s?

and should eye get teh hooker cat-back?

1MEAN92RS

Even if it isn't mandrel bent, if it is 3" as you say it is then you will see better results spending your money elsewhere like headers or new heads, intake, and cam or something along those lines.

Trans_AM_88

well i also wanted a louder, more bassy throaty exhaust. maybe i should just get a high flow cat and a new muffler?

i was looking at the specs of the aero chamber mufflers and i was kinda surprised at the soubd level specs:

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SHHM/fSLC.html

that chart shows that the hooker muffler is the quietest?

i want a fairly loud exhaust so i dont look like crap when a r[i]cer pulls up next to me with a fart pipe. i liked ravin until i heard that sound clip and all that crackling coming out after i high rpm rev. further confusion! :lala:

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

well the hooker cat back is a nice rumble at idle but when u rev it or go WOT it will scream very nicely.

Trans_AM_88

hmm. well the thing is, i dont like those nasty turn down tips, so if i get a new muffler, new cat, and new tips then thats almost the cost of the hooker cat back already...

gruveb

Mine doesn't have the turn down tips. It has 4 2 1/2" straight tips.

I purchased the Hooker catback that is for 83/84 F bodies. I just cut off the 4 bolt flange and hooked it up to the cat with an exhaust clamp.

At idle I can actually hear the turn signals, but step on it and whoa mama!

It was kinda of a PIA having to shut the car off going through the drive through so you could be heard. Now, at idle, it's much more reasonable and sounds absolutely as throaty as hell!

Check my sig for the set up I am running with this cat back.

Trans_AM_88

well i meant if i kept my current cat back (with the nasty turndowns) and NOT get the hooker cat back, then id want to get a muffler and tips. id have to get my current turn downs cut off and the tips welded on, or i might even just need new tubes out of the muffler. im just trying to save myself some work, maybe thats why i should just get the hooker cat-back which is ready to be bolted in.

Trans_AM_88

you know what, screw it im getting the hooker cat-back, direct bolt-in for my car. with my luck i wont be able to find a shop around here that'll get that flange fixed

im sure that this will sound better than my current cat back. and it'll definatly flow better. i also like the tips

thanks for everyones input.

1MEAN92RS

well, just in case anyone else is following this thread and because there are some issues here that you will have too, I'm gonna post some pics and explanations about the Hooker cat-back.

This first pic is just a general underbody shot from the back for referance.